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Frustrated with my Carbs.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr Toga
  • Start date Start date
M

Mr Toga

Guest
Hello everyone. I am in need of some serious help with my carbs. I just went through and completely cleaned the carbs. This includes dipping them in barrymans and following this site's guide word for word. I replaces the pilot jets and all of the o rings (obtained from Mr. Barr) last year. I can barely get the bike started right now. I've got it on full choke and it still needs a little squirt of starting fluid. The bike doesn't take any response to throttle either. Last year I adjusted the valves, installed a dynotech ignition, and did the coil relay mod. This year, I've redone spark plug caps and plugs. I'm out of ideas here and really need help diagnosing my problems (bike related :p). Oh and yes, boots and o rings were replaced last year. Anyone have any idea whats going on?
 
Its a stock setup with factory airbox and exhaust. Weatherstripped the airbox last year too.
 
Have you tested the petcock to make sure that you are getting fuel to the carbs? Have you made sure that the float heights are correct? Do you know that the jets are the right ones? Got to make sure these are ok.

When you weatherstripped the airbox did you weatherstrip the air filter where it connects to the airbox?

Keep working at it and reading everything that you can on the site. You will find the critical element. PS I soaked the Carbs at least 3 times before I got it right.

Hope this helps
 
How strong is the battery?

Not necessarily in my bike, but in our Formula cars, which use motorcycle drivetrains, a weak battery often meant the difference between starting well, not great starting, and not at all...
 
tlepac said:
Have you tested the petcock to make sure that you are getting fuel to the carbs? Have you made sure that the float heights are correct? Do you know that the jets are the right ones? When you weatherstripped the airbox did you weatherstrip the air filter where it connects to the airbox?
Click to expand...

I did make sure the petcock was functioning and that the screen was unblocked. I set all of the float heights at 22mm per manual and double checked the het sizes I could read (some were a little boogered up). I didn't weatherstrip the air filter because the rubber was still around the opening of the airbox.

spwalker09 said:
How strong is the battery?

Not necessarily in my bike, but in our Formula cars, which use motorcycle drivetrains, a weak battery often meant the difference between starting well, not great starting, and not at all...
Click to expand...

I currently am starting the bike with the help of a battery charger. With the charger on, the voltmeter says 14.4 when the key is on and about 10 when I'm cranking it over.
 
That low voltage may cause weak spark and cause the bike to run poorly. Maybe try switching out for a known good battery?

I hate chasing small gremlins like this...best of luck!
 
Thanks. This is my fourth time re-dipping the carbs now. This is getting ridiculous.
 
Mr Toga said:
Thanks. This is my fourth time re-dipping the carbs now. This is getting ridiculous.
Click to expand...

are you dipping the bowls as well? The starter jets in mine were clogged, and annoyingly they're located deep within a crevace in the bowls. Maybe take the special tool from the Carb Clean series writeup such as a bristle from a wire wheel (I used a piece of small gauge wiring) to poke through the jets after dipping
 
Did you hold the pilot jets up to a light to make sure they are open?
 
Mr Toga said:
I did make sure the petcock was functioning and that the screen was unblocked. I set all of the float heights at 22mm per manual and double checked the het sizes I could read (some were a little boogered up). I didn't weatherstrip the air filter because the rubber was still around the opening of the airbox.



I currently am starting the bike with the help of a battery charger. With the charger on, the voltmeter says 14.4 when the key is on and about 10 when I'm cranking it over.
Click to expand...

Have you replaced the regulator/rectifier and/or the stator? That can cause weirdness in voltage. You said earlier that you keep a battery charger on it while trying to start it; does the battery hold a charge? How old is the battery? If you bought the battery new, did you just fill it with electrolyte and install it, or did you charge it first? My understanding is if you don't initially charge it, you will decrease it's life. What is the "coil relay mod" you mentioned before?
 
I have the Dynotech ignition on my bike. It ran like crap yesterday. I haven't been using my battery tender recently. Put it on the tender last night, and it runs like a champ today. Get a good battery. Check your connections from the stator in the big bundle under the seat. They will start turning black if there is a high contact resistance.
 
Last edited:
Well just went out to try and work on the bike. Put a new battery in and it didn't make a difference. Messed around with the carb a little bit and eventuallly got it to start. I plugged in my colortune and was getting a pretty dark blue at idle. What color am I looking for? Still wont take throttle very well though. Plus it still takes quite a bit of effort to get it to start after it dies.
 
Another update. Went out again, and the bike fires up with full choke and has descent throttle response. Won't run without choke though. Anyone with any ideas?
 
I dipped a set about 2 months ago and the bike ran a slightly rough until I sinced them.

Could the carbs be way out of sinc?

I have bench sinced RS flatslides but not a set of CV's. I would imagine it is the same process.
 
OK...its coming back to me

I turned up the idle adjustment screw for the bike to run after I re assembled the carbs. I then began to sinc them and as the carbs became sincronized I needed to turn the idle down. I did this for a few iterations.

Runs great now.
 
The idle adjustment is a single knob (not a screw). It affects all the carbs simutaneously by opening (or closing) the butterflies. Turning it clockwise increases the idle.

Sincing the carbs gets all the butterflys (or affective vacuum) close to the same level.
 
oops. I mis-read your post. I thought you were talking about the idle air-mixture screws. I have tried mession with the idle adjustment screw with no luck. I did bench sync the carbs
 
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