G
Guest
Guest
True that. Some Motorola cellphones are similar - won't charge off some USBs ports
. I first though this had to do only with the port Amp rating but apparently it's more than that. Dunno what, though. 
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True that. Some Motorola cellphones are similar - won't charge off some USBs ports
. I first though this had to do only with the port Amp rating but apparently it's more than that. Dunno what, though.
G
Guest
Guest
Lithium motorcycle battery
Lithium motorcycle battery
I got my first lithium motorcycle batteries today. I cannot believe how light they are. I bought the huge one with 270 cold cranking amps and 18amp/hrs.
It weighs 2.12 lbs and you can see the size difference between the stock sky scraper battery, a newer sport bike battery and the lithium in the middle.
You could say I like them so much I bought the company, but, I only became a dealer.
Lithium motorcycle battery
I got my first lithium motorcycle batteries today. I cannot believe how light they are. I bought the huge one with 270 cold cranking amps and 18amp/hrs.
It weighs 2.12 lbs and you can see the size difference between the stock sky scraper battery, a newer sport bike battery and the lithium in the middle.
You could say I like them so much I bought the company, but, I only became a dealer.
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T
Turtleface
Guest
I got my first lithium motorcycle batteries today. I cannot believe how light they are. I bought the huge one with 270 cold cranking amps and 18amp/hrs.
It weighs 2.12 lbs and you can see the size difference between the stock sky scraper battery, a newer sport bike battery and the lithium in the middle.
You could say I like them so much I bought the company, but, I only became a dealer.
I was thinking about going lithium for whenever I redo the electrics on my bike. Are there any longevity issues, or any sort of known drawbacks to using the lithium batteries, other than the obvious price difference? Most of my small electronics around the house are LiOn powered, and dead reliable, but I wasn't sure how the tech scaled up into the motorcycle world.
Retrofitting new shiny electronics in place of old stinky OEM stuff gives me the tingles.
G
Guest
Guest
They are touted to have 2 to 3 times the life of a led acid, so I deamed the extra cost a non issue. Lead acid solphate and lose power over time these don't. Resistance builds in acid batteries as cranking continues and these don't. They are supposed to have far supperior cranking power which is important with my 1100.
Can't say for sure though until I have had one for a few years but I do know I am not happy with acid batteries.
G
Guest
Guest
Today I was working on the signal lights. Repositioning them left me short of lead wire so I had to lengthen them. When I went to the bin I realized that my connectors were too large. On these old beasts, there are two sizes of push together connectors. The signal lights are the small ones and I had none. So, I spliced into the existing wires, soldered and shrink tubed the connections, then covered the whole business with conduit from my friendly neibourhood vintage motorcycle shop. IF you want wiring to look factory this stuff is great.
Front and rear signals are now hooked up. That of course doesn't mean they work. For those new to LEDs, they won't work with the stock signal relay because they don't put enough load on it (heat it up) to activate it. Fortunately, LEDs have been out for some time now so you can get specific signal relays cheap from the automotive parts department for LEDs. With one of my first LED signal bikes I was real cheap. I used the original incondecent bulbs under the plastic firing down across the engine and rear wheel in conjunction with the LEDS. worked great and added more visability to boot.
Front and rear signals are now hooked up. That of course doesn't mean they work. For those new to LEDs, they won't work with the stock signal relay because they don't put enough load on it (heat it up) to activate it. Fortunately, LEDs have been out for some time now so you can get specific signal relays cheap from the automotive parts department for LEDs. With one of my first LED signal bikes I was real cheap. I used the original incondecent bulbs under the plastic firing down across the engine and rear wheel in conjunction with the LEDS. worked great and added more visability to boot.
G
Guest
Guest
gs/gsxr left control
gs/gsxr left control
Time to update the left control.
Picked up a GSXR 1000 (2008ish) control from ebay. Wow, it wasn't busted and actually worked. Anyways, I am no wiring geek so I blue a few brain cells sorting this out.
Decided to make up a diagram so any of you monkeys can do it too. First off, I used an existing (blue) left hand plug connector off an old busted control. This is only for a 1982 gs1100 katana. Don't know if the "E" or other models are the same. I do know that the '83 katana is different wiring so this diagram though could be used as a guide, may not work.
Now that I have it all working correctly, I will use a new plug and pins so there will be no spliced joints to become a pain later. I am using separate clutch safety wires that work with my clutch. The plug that comes with this control doesn't plug into my clutch assembly.
With this upgrade you get 4way hazards, passing headlight flash and a brand spanking new control that looks far better than that 30 year old platic your sporting now.
Cheers,
GS/GSXR LEFT CONTROL UPGRADE
gs/gsxr left control
Time to update the left control.
Picked up a GSXR 1000 (2008ish) control from ebay. Wow, it wasn't busted and actually worked. Anyways, I am no wiring geek so I blue a few brain cells sorting this out.
Decided to make up a diagram so any of you monkeys can do it too. First off, I used an existing (blue) left hand plug connector off an old busted control. This is only for a 1982 gs1100 katana. Don't know if the "E" or other models are the same. I do know that the '83 katana is different wiring so this diagram though could be used as a guide, may not work.
Now that I have it all working correctly, I will use a new plug and pins so there will be no spliced joints to become a pain later. I am using separate clutch safety wires that work with my clutch. The plug that comes with this control doesn't plug into my clutch assembly.
With this upgrade you get 4way hazards, passing headlight flash and a brand spanking new control that looks far better than that 30 year old platic your sporting now.
Cheers,
GS/GSXR LEFT CONTROL UPGRADE
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G
Guest
Guest
katana control switches
katana control switches
If you are running RS Flatside carbs on your katana, you are going to have to use a push pull throttle. If you do not, you will die. My fuel injection setup also uses a push pull throttle. The reason you need the pull aspect of the throttle is because vacuum will keep the slides wide open and you will have your hands full with a rocket stuck in go fast mode. I took a bike out once for a quick test/tune ride without the second cable connected... you guessed it, broken collar bone and wrecked bike.
Getting back to the build, you will need as I did, a narrow kill/start switch. The stock switch is built into the throttle but with the push pull you need an extra switch now so it has to be small or your throttle won't fit on the bar. There are a number of bikes that have these samll switches like, R1, triumph, SV650 and so on. Just have a look around fleebay for the one you like.
Next the switch needs to be wired for use with the katana. This is where my multimeter comes in handy. After locating which wires belong to the start button and run switch I made up a new plug to connect to my harness. These plugs are available from various vintage motorcycle connector shops. Eastern Beaver and Vintage connections are two companies I use. Here is a tip, start the bike before soldering and shrink tubing (if you are splicing) or crimping up the connector block. You see, you may get the starter to work with the start button but if you don't actually start the bike it may not run when you release the start button. This is due to the wrong wire being connected to the 12vdc live feed going to the switch.
Katanas only have three wires coming from the kill switch. One from the run, one from start button and the other two wires from those switches are connected in the switch so only three run to the harness. So, you have to get the 4 wires connected as three properly to gain proper function.
I am using an SV650 or 1000, not sure, right hand control. I like this control because it has a third function button on it. I will be using this switch as a head light on/off control. Running fuel injection is an amperage burden on a katana so I would like to have my head light off while starting. Also, it's just handy to be able to turn off the head light when you want to.
Here are some more pics of my left hand GSXR 1000 control. Another point I did not mention is that these controls have locating pins that keep the control from rotating on the handle bar. The stock katana control simply pinched the bar using friction to keep it in place. The new switches do not. All you need to do is locate it best you can on the bar, mark the locating pin position, then drill a hole a millimeter or two into the handle bar and you are done.
Oh yeh, there may be two other wires in there, they will be for the brake light. You may or may not wish to use those depending on your setup.
katana control switches
If you are running RS Flatside carbs on your katana, you are going to have to use a push pull throttle. If you do not, you will die. My fuel injection setup also uses a push pull throttle. The reason you need the pull aspect of the throttle is because vacuum will keep the slides wide open and you will have your hands full with a rocket stuck in go fast mode. I took a bike out once for a quick test/tune ride without the second cable connected... you guessed it, broken collar bone and wrecked bike.
Getting back to the build, you will need as I did, a narrow kill/start switch. The stock switch is built into the throttle but with the push pull you need an extra switch now so it has to be small or your throttle won't fit on the bar. There are a number of bikes that have these samll switches like, R1, triumph, SV650 and so on. Just have a look around fleebay for the one you like.
Next the switch needs to be wired for use with the katana. This is where my multimeter comes in handy. After locating which wires belong to the start button and run switch I made up a new plug to connect to my harness. These plugs are available from various vintage motorcycle connector shops. Eastern Beaver and Vintage connections are two companies I use. Here is a tip, start the bike before soldering and shrink tubing (if you are splicing) or crimping up the connector block. You see, you may get the starter to work with the start button but if you don't actually start the bike it may not run when you release the start button. This is due to the wrong wire being connected to the 12vdc live feed going to the switch.
Katanas only have three wires coming from the kill switch. One from the run, one from start button and the other two wires from those switches are connected in the switch so only three run to the harness. So, you have to get the 4 wires connected as three properly to gain proper function.
I am using an SV650 or 1000, not sure, right hand control. I like this control because it has a third function button on it. I will be using this switch as a head light on/off control. Running fuel injection is an amperage burden on a katana so I would like to have my head light off while starting. Also, it's just handy to be able to turn off the head light when you want to.
Here are some more pics of my left hand GSXR 1000 control. Another point I did not mention is that these controls have locating pins that keep the control from rotating on the handle bar. The stock katana control simply pinched the bar using friction to keep it in place. The new switches do not. All you need to do is locate it best you can on the bar, mark the locating pin position, then drill a hole a millimeter or two into the handle bar and you are done.
Oh yeh, there may be two other wires in there, they will be for the brake light. You may or may not wish to use those depending on your setup.
G
Guest
Guest
The new HEL brake lines came in. Steel braid with colored translucent cover and a new EK 140 link chain. The banjo bolts that came with the lines are stainless but I got some anodized aluminum ones. They shop I got them from does them themselves. Very nice, predrilled for safety wire.
T
Tenrilid
Guest
Hey Katman, any recent updates on the build?
G
Guest
Guest
katana plastic
katana plastic
Back at it.....
I have fitted the plastic to the frame. The fairing required some adjusting to fit perfect with the tank and lower fairing pieces but now it fits just how I want it. Nice and tight. When I had fabricated the under seat pan I was using a rear katana seat cowl that did not have an eyebrow on it. Consequently, when I fitted the new tail plastic, the tail light was mounted too far inside the cowl. Fortunately I had left enough metal there so I could move it back an inch or so to fix the problem. The fairing also required some material removed from the inside as there was contact between the fairing and the GSXR 750 forks. All in all, easy procedure.
I have some more plastic and seat work to do. I am just adding my own touch to help it stand out from the other katanas.
katana plastic
Back at it.....
I have fitted the plastic to the frame. The fairing required some adjusting to fit perfect with the tank and lower fairing pieces but now it fits just how I want it. Nice and tight. When I had fabricated the under seat pan I was using a rear katana seat cowl that did not have an eyebrow on it. Consequently, when I fitted the new tail plastic, the tail light was mounted too far inside the cowl. Fortunately I had left enough metal there so I could move it back an inch or so to fix the problem. The fairing also required some material removed from the inside as there was contact between the fairing and the GSXR 750 forks. All in all, easy procedure.
I have some more plastic and seat work to do. I am just adding my own touch to help it stand out from the other katanas.
G
Guest
Guest
All the plastic and the tank went to paint today. Should be back by the end of next week. This gives me time to build the engine and finish all the loose ends.
Started on the tach/speedo bezel today as well. Will have some pics tomorrow. I am thinking I will make a new billet disc to replace the plastic choke dial since it is not in use anymore with the fuel injection.
I cut away some of the plastic and the seat, pics to follow. Its always fun taking a grinder to your brand new plastic. I cut the front fender, lower fairing pieces and the tail section. Check back tomorrow for the pics of what I did to make this bike a little different from the pack.
Started on the tach/speedo bezel today as well. Will have some pics tomorrow. I am thinking I will make a new billet disc to replace the plastic choke dial since it is not in use anymore with the fuel injection.
I cut away some of the plastic and the seat, pics to follow. Its always fun taking a grinder to your brand new plastic. I cut the front fender, lower fairing pieces and the tail section. Check back tomorrow for the pics of what I did to make this bike a little different from the pack.
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Guest
Guest
Ok, here are the pics of what I did with the plastic. I have to say, it's a little nerve racking to take a grinder to your brand new plastic. Especially when you don't have anymore on hand. As you can see, I have only made some minor changes but I think it will ad to the over all package. I have seen a few guys shorten the front fender and I really like the look so I did it too. The lower fairings and tail contours I have not seen before. I got the idea for the lower fairing pieces when I had one that was broken on the bottom, so I contoured it like you see so I could use the two on the bike. I liked the look.
The trail cut away gives the back end a loftier look without effecting trail and destablizing the bike at high speeds. The katanas by design are quite low in the back so I took the oportunity to cut into it since there is now a renewable supply of glass tails. I didn't have to worry about wrecking an original then having to try and find another one. This contour gives the bike the look of about an inch lift. The look doesn't look complete until I finish with paint and pin striping.
When I finish maching the replacement choke disc I will post pics of that too. Still working on the design.
The trail cut away gives the back end a loftier look without effecting trail and destablizing the bike at high speeds. The katanas by design are quite low in the back so I took the oportunity to cut into it since there is now a renewable supply of glass tails. I didn't have to worry about wrecking an original then having to try and find another one. This contour gives the bike the look of about an inch lift. The look doesn't look complete until I finish with paint and pin striping.
When I finish maching the replacement choke disc I will post pics of that too. Still working on the design.
G
Guest
Guest
Today I did some wiring. I wanted to use leds for my warning lights so here is what I had to do.
First I had to add resistors to each led so they don't blow up as they can not handle 12vdc. I added one resistor to each light I was using. I am using an oil, high beam and one signal light indicator. My neutral light would be handled by my gear shift indicator that I will cover later. As you know, katanas do not have them stock and I was not going to buy a 150.00 gear indicator. Anywho, the next step is to decipher the wiring coming from the harness plug for the dash. OK, did that, now I have to reduce my stock left and right signal light indicator lights to one. How do you do that you ask, well, you need to get two diodes. A diode is a one way electrical device that looks like a resister. It only allows voltage to flow one way. You then solder the diodes to each end of the positive wires for your left and right signal. Since the diode only works one way make sure they are installed correctly. There will be a black band around one end of it, that is the direction it flows. In the picture below you can see how I did it. After that is done twist the to other ends of the diodes together with a wire and solder together. This will be your positive lead to the led lamp in your dash. Then connect the negative lead to the other side of your led and your done. Power will be sent to your light from each side of the switch. If you do not install diodes, all your flashers will work when you try to use the signal lights as voltage will flow to both left and right signals.
First I had to add resistors to each led so they don't blow up as they can not handle 12vdc. I added one resistor to each light I was using. I am using an oil, high beam and one signal light indicator. My neutral light would be handled by my gear shift indicator that I will cover later. As you know, katanas do not have them stock and I was not going to buy a 150.00 gear indicator. Anywho, the next step is to decipher the wiring coming from the harness plug for the dash. OK, did that, now I have to reduce my stock left and right signal light indicator lights to one. How do you do that you ask, well, you need to get two diodes. A diode is a one way electrical device that looks like a resister. It only allows voltage to flow one way. You then solder the diodes to each end of the positive wires for your left and right signal. Since the diode only works one way make sure they are installed correctly. There will be a black band around one end of it, that is the direction it flows. In the picture below you can see how I did it. After that is done twist the to other ends of the diodes together with a wire and solder together. This will be your positive lead to the led lamp in your dash. Then connect the negative lead to the other side of your led and your done. Power will be sent to your light from each side of the switch. If you do not install diodes, all your flashers will work when you try to use the signal lights as voltage will flow to both left and right signals.
G
Guest
Guest
Started on the tacho/speedo case today.
Last year I just cut a hole into a mounting plate and mounted the clocks but on this build I wanted something a little stylish so I went and got some 4 1/2" x 2" solid round aluminum. I had also mounted the led warning lights below the clocks which was not the best idea. With my full face helmet I could not see them unless I was looking down at the dash, so this time I am mounting them op top. Decided to incorporate them into the bezel itself. I will be using different colored leds as pictured. The three on top are OIL, HIGH BEAM, and a single SIGNAL indicator. Down and to the right will be my low fuel light and critically low fuel warning. For The OIL and critically low FUEL warning lights I am using blinking leds.
When I used this set of clocks last year I got caught in the rain a few times and was worried about the moisture as the back of the instruments are open. That is why I have enclosed it for this bike. I have yet to more a small hole into the back for the wiring and that will be siliconed up so no more worries.
To mount it to the bike I will be fabbing some plate aluminum for the unit to fit into and I will be mounting my new cheap gear indicator in the 3 o'clock position of the tach. I figure to machine a notch into the ring and fit it in like it was made for it. Wait, it is made for it. PIcs to follow.
To leave enough room under the clocks I had to figure out how to bolt the thing in. The threads on the back are short, so I had to make some loooooooong nuts. Worked like a charm.
Last year I just cut a hole into a mounting plate and mounted the clocks but on this build I wanted something a little stylish so I went and got some 4 1/2" x 2" solid round aluminum. I had also mounted the led warning lights below the clocks which was not the best idea. With my full face helmet I could not see them unless I was looking down at the dash, so this time I am mounting them op top. Decided to incorporate them into the bezel itself. I will be using different colored leds as pictured. The three on top are OIL, HIGH BEAM, and a single SIGNAL indicator. Down and to the right will be my low fuel light and critically low fuel warning. For The OIL and critically low FUEL warning lights I am using blinking leds.
When I used this set of clocks last year I got caught in the rain a few times and was worried about the moisture as the back of the instruments are open. That is why I have enclosed it for this bike. I have yet to more a small hole into the back for the wiring and that will be siliconed up so no more worries.
To mount it to the bike I will be fabbing some plate aluminum for the unit to fit into and I will be mounting my new cheap gear indicator in the 3 o'clock position of the tach. I figure to machine a notch into the ring and fit it in like it was made for it. Wait, it is made for it. PIcs to follow.
To leave enough room under the clocks I had to figure out how to bolt the thing in. The threads on the back are short, so I had to make some loooooooong nuts. Worked like a charm.
G
Guest
Guest
Fcuk that's nice!
F
Flyboy
Guest
Man, you have got way bigger cajones than I do, just holding the grinder would reduce me to a whimpering pile of jelly, It would traumatise me in ways I can not even begin to imagine.
But I have no doubt it is going to do exactly what you are aiming for, and will look really stunning.
I love the rev counter, that is some really nice work.:clap:
G
Guest
Guest
Just about finished on my katana instruments. I just have to run the led wires and a couple others. Don't know what finish will be on them yet. Thinking powder, then some re-machining for some contrast. There is still some cleanup and finishing touches but she is basically done.
I ran hole through the back of the pod and installed a rubber gromet to protect the wires coming out and to inhibit moisture and dust from getting in. The leds I will be using will be the colored type. I used the super brights last time and that is not the way to go. I had to grind them flat to kill some of the brightness and they were still obnoxious. They will be set in with silicone to keep them in place and to keep moisture out in the off chance I get caught in some.
The gear indicator was tedious and took some time to make. But, for $6.00 I can't complain. I faced the gear indicator with plexi-glass. Counter sunk it and painted a frame around it on the inside surface. Don't need a neutral light now as there is a "N" on the gear indicator. Next job is the mounting plate and getting it onto the bike.
I ran hole through the back of the pod and installed a rubber gromet to protect the wires coming out and to inhibit moisture and dust from getting in. The leds I will be using will be the colored type. I used the super brights last time and that is not the way to go. I had to grind them flat to kill some of the brightness and they were still obnoxious. They will be set in with silicone to keep them in place and to keep moisture out in the off chance I get caught in some.
The gear indicator was tedious and took some time to make. But, for $6.00 I can't complain. I faced the gear indicator with plexi-glass. Counter sunk it and painted a frame around it on the inside surface. Don't need a neutral light now as there is a "N" on the gear indicator. Next job is the mounting plate and getting it onto the bike.
I got my first lithium motorcycle batteries today. I cannot believe how light they are. I bought the huge one with 270 cold cranking amps and 18amp/hrs.
It weighs 2.12 lbs and you can see the size difference between the stock sky scraper battery, a newer sport bike battery and the lithium in the middle.
You could say I like them so much I bought the company, but, I only became a dealer.
I got the one in the middle, can't believe how small it is. I've only used cheap lead acid batteries in the past so no experience with AGM battery but this Lithium has got to be hard to beat.
G
Guest
Guest
Wow, this has turned into lots of work. Picked up a piece of aluminum for the speedometer, tachometer mount. I will be machining off some of the ignition mount on the top triple since I am using a digital keyless ignition. It is in the way. I have the speedo mount roughed out and the rubber mounts done. I will be adding a bracket for the Yosh multimeter, and locating the set button for the clocks as well as installing an incondescent bulb for the low fuel light.
There seems to be a real problem getting the thing to work with an LED as the thermistor needs a current draw to help heat it up to allow current to flow, whereby turning on the light. So, I will use the incondescent bulb top right in conjunction with a second LED for critical low. This will be a flashing LED wired in parallel with the incondescent. At least that is the plan. I figure the regular bulb will cause curent to flow when the second thermistor is exposed to air which will in turn, turn on the led.
That leaves me with one extra light around my speedo, which I will be using for a head light off indicator. Since I am using a common bosh style relay for the head light, I can use the "normally on" contact to illuminate an LED showing me my head light is currently off. I can see myself forgetting to turn the thing one all the time which the police around here won't like, being daytime running lights are the law.
There seems to be a real problem getting the thing to work with an LED as the thermistor needs a current draw to help heat it up to allow current to flow, whereby turning on the light. So, I will use the incondescent bulb top right in conjunction with a second LED for critical low. This will be a flashing LED wired in parallel with the incondescent. At least that is the plan. I figure the regular bulb will cause curent to flow when the second thermistor is exposed to air which will in turn, turn on the led.
That leaves me with one extra light around my speedo, which I will be using for a head light off indicator. Since I am using a common bosh style relay for the head light, I can use the "normally on" contact to illuminate an LED showing me my head light is currently off. I can see myself forgetting to turn the thing one all the time which the police around here won't like, being daytime running lights are the law.
G
Guest
Guest
katana on off head light switch
katana on off head light switch
Here is a diagram of how I installed my on/off headlight switch for my 1982 suzuki katana. This can be made to work on most bikes if you are familiar with your wiring.
I started with a standard Bosh style 5 terminal relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil of the relay. When power is applied to the coil it will make a connection between terminal 30 and 87. Power (12vdc) is brought to terminal 30 via a hot lead from the wiring harness. In this case an orange with red tracer. Without this relay on a stock katana the wire going to terminal 30 would be plugged directly into the wire connected to terminal 87. The relay is only acting as a switch between these two wires. In simple terms you could run each of these wires directly to a switch and that would turn your head light on or of. I am using a relay so I can utilize a light to tell me the head light is off.
The Bosh style 5 terminal relays have a normally closed terminal which is 87a. What this means is, the power going to terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87a until the relay is switched on by the power to the coil. This flips the relay to connect the terminals 30 and 87. When the power is switched off to the relay it switches back to reconnect terminals 30 and 87a. This is where the warning light comes in.
When I turn on the key, and my head light is off, the indicator light will come on because the relay is not switched on. After the bike is running I throw the head light switch on and that activates the relay turning off the indicator light and turning on my head light. I am also using a relay because my head light switch has 18 or 20 gauge wire and I am concerned it is not heavy enough to handle the current needed for the head light. I am using a switch that is incorporated into my right hand control.
katana on off head light switch
Here is a diagram of how I installed my on/off headlight switch for my 1982 suzuki katana. This can be made to work on most bikes if you are familiar with your wiring.
I started with a standard Bosh style 5 terminal relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil of the relay. When power is applied to the coil it will make a connection between terminal 30 and 87. Power (12vdc) is brought to terminal 30 via a hot lead from the wiring harness. In this case an orange with red tracer. Without this relay on a stock katana the wire going to terminal 30 would be plugged directly into the wire connected to terminal 87. The relay is only acting as a switch between these two wires. In simple terms you could run each of these wires directly to a switch and that would turn your head light on or of. I am using a relay so I can utilize a light to tell me the head light is off.
The Bosh style 5 terminal relays have a normally closed terminal which is 87a. What this means is, the power going to terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87a until the relay is switched on by the power to the coil. This flips the relay to connect the terminals 30 and 87. When the power is switched off to the relay it switches back to reconnect terminals 30 and 87a. This is where the warning light comes in.
When I turn on the key, and my head light is off, the indicator light will come on because the relay is not switched on. After the bike is running I throw the head light switch on and that activates the relay turning off the indicator light and turning on my head light. I am also using a relay because my head light switch has 18 or 20 gauge wire and I am concerned it is not heavy enough to handle the current needed for the head light. I am using a switch that is incorporated into my right hand control.