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Nitrous street 1166

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nicholaschase29
  • Start date Start date
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Man to be young again, Those jammies look so comfortable :o. If i wore those now the neighbors would wonder

Make sure you are squared away when dropping the cylinder down on those rings; straight down. Did you get the cylinders chamfered? It really helps.

while the rockers are not in the head, put the cams in and torque them down to make sure they spin over freely.
 
I've been doing some thinking on jetting. I have 135 mains in now with smoothbore 33's on it.

Should I up-jet and adjust the needles after the 1166 kit and the porting?


More pictures to be uploaded in a minute..

I would go at least 140 till you know where you are at.
 
Man to be young again, Those jammies look so comfortable :o. If i wore those now the neighbors would wonder

Make sure you are squared away when dropping the cylinder down on those rings; straight down. Did you get the cylinders chamfered? It really helps.

while the rockers are not in the head, put the cams in and torque them down to make sure they spin over freely.



I didn't get the cylinders chamfered. I saw that there isn't much left from the original chamfer since it's bored over 3mm. Should I file in a chamfer or leave it alone and try to fit it up?


Also, I was thinking about grinding down the rocker bumps. I put the cams in and I spun the cams to see if they cleared the bumps - which they did, barely. I should probably still do it while I have them out - is there any rhyme or reason to this or so i just put them to the grinding wheel? Plus I can lighten my valve train :rolleyes:
 
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Cylinders are on!

Waiting on a valve guide seal to get here (killed one on accident) before final assembly of the head.

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Cylinder head is now on and torqued down. Today I'm working on degreeing the cams and setting valve lash. I have my fingers crossed on this MLS gasket.

We made up a fuel pressure handlebar mount out of some plastic material that we had lying around. It turned out pretty nice.

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You HAVE to put a clamp on the hose that comes into your pressure gauge!!! How would you like to get a face full of gas & become a screaming alpha bravo fire if the hose comes off? Ray.
 
Just got caught up on your progress. Looks great. To answer your questions, I was running 10.90's at 128mph with bad coils. I got the coils replaced and am working on wheelie bars. The bike is a street bike that I just started going to the track with. When the weather gets better I will be up at the track. Maybe Trippivot will join us.
Curt

P.S. Are you thinking of a top end oiler to keep your cams happy? I had to replace mine and the rockers...
 
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You HAVE to put a clamp on the hose that comes into your pressure gauge!!! How would you like to get a face full of gas & become a screaming alpha bravo fire if the hose comes off? Ray.

Thanks Ray, I'll be sure to put one on when I get it all buttoned up!
 
P.S. Are you thinking of a top end oiler to keep your cams happy? I had to replace mine and the rockers...

I don't have a top end oiler. I have my fingers crossed for now, I'm hoping to get one in the future.
 
Got her fired up and running and everything. What's proper break-in besides varying the rpm?.. I'm sure there are different schools of thought here.
 
avoid engine braking/constant RPMs? Any engine builders want to confirm this? also use cheap, low detergent motor oil. Less additives=less fuss breaking in the piston rings. At least, for British bikes :)
 
Got her fired up and running and everything. What's proper break-in besides varying the rpm?.. I'm sure there are different schools of thought here.

Proper break in for new cams is to get a fan and run the engine at 2500 constant RPM for 5-10 minutes.

Otherwise run it about 1/2-2 hour up to temp. Retorque head and change oil.
 
I've heard basically two schools of thought for seating the rings.

The 1st is run it aggressively for high cylinder pressures to push the rings against the cylinder walls to seat them - all the way to redline.

And the 2nd is to stay under something like 4000rpm for the first 400 miles or so.

Both methods varying RPM and changing the oil after the first 20 or so miles of use.
 
Here's a short little video. We made an exhaust sniffer and we're just mocking up the setup here.

 
Another video of our exhaust sniffer on the bike with the wideband gauge connected.

 
Motoman the breakin & it will haul the mail for MANY miles or it will show you where it's weak right from the beginning. Ray.
 
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