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Fuel Tank Sealent. Lesson learnt

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bugger
  • Start date Start date
I take mine to a local radiator shop. They clean them chemically then seal them and stand behind their work. Cost 100.00 to do my last tank. More expensive than a kit, but no work on my part and great peace of mind.
 
diesel_lv said:
I take mine to a local radiator shop. They clean them chemically then seal them and stand behind their work. Cost 100.00 to do my last tank. More expensive than a kit, but no work on my part and great peace of mind.
Click to expand...

I don't trust radiator shops to do that kind of work. As far as a warranty goes, unless they give you a 5+ year warranty, you won't know if it was done right.
 
The acid solution in Kreem is very good at dissolving rust chunks in any tank.
I was extremely happy how it killed the rust.

But, after I drained the tank, it was just flash-rusting WAY too fast!
I literally couldn't patch the tank back together fast enough.

The moron at the bike store sold me JUST the Acid and Cleaner product but NOT the sealant. He told me to just clean the tank, and throw gasoline in it, and the Gas would prevent the rust.....

I wanted to go back and punch the guy in the face.

I should have just sprayed some WD-40 or oil in the tank to prevent the rust, then flush it threw the petcock while pouring fresh gas in the top.

But I didn't know much about it at the time!

--------

I just dealt with the flash rust and burned it threw the engine.
After a couple fill-ups, the rust is mostly all gone now.

Not the most professional way to do it, but it worked damnit.:D

Never touching tank sealant though, I've just heard that Eventually it will burn off threw the engine at Some point.
 
Important info re tank sealers/liners

Important info re tank sealers/liners

I have just been reading Classic Motorcycle Mechanics (UK Mag for 60's to 80's bikes)
and they had a very interesting article about modern fuels with comments from four oil companies re changes in properties of more modern fuels (incl seasonal differences). Quite informative with respect to the effects of standing fuel in older bikes (with venting tanks) and the effect of the introduction of bio fuel content on older (venting) machines (more water in tanks) and the nasty of nasties... what it does to tank liners :eek:.

Have scanned and inserted pages below.


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I tried to repair a leaky Skunk tank with Kreme in '82, didn't work for me,
continued to leak so I bought a new tank for around $200 painted, you could still get them new from Suzuki back then.
 
I'm letting a 3.5 to 1 solution of molasses sit in my tank now. I found a feed store that would sell bulk molasses for $2.50 a gallon if you bring your own container. I used aquarium rocks before the molasses to get the loose scale out. My question is how do you put the sealant (Caswell in my case) in. Do you plug the sending unit and petcock holes and pour thru the filling hole and then just roll the tank to different positions while leaving the filling hole open? Also how are you sure you have all the rocks out? I don't hear any and flushed with a water hose before the molasses. Do you use a mirror to view the nooks and crannies? Thnx Jim M
 
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Further to what I said in an earlier post about Petseal, I have it on very good authority that you should stop using it from now on.

My mate 'designs' petrol, amongst other petro-chemical compounds, as a job. He's tipped me off that across Europe there is a new additive going in to super-unleaded immediately and being phased in to normal unleaded that will dissolve Petseal. The old 4 star, if you can find it, will remain unaffected.
 
tank sealer

tank sealer

most of the fuel you buy now is about 80% bio ethalene and it will eat away at your sealer , pat
 
pat said:
most of the fuel you buy now is about 80% bio ethalene and it will eat away at your sealer , pat
Click to expand...

80% seems highly dubious; however may be true in your particular location but is definitely not the case in North America.

So I contacted POR15.

No reported issues with any of their tank liners with ethanol blended or ethylene blended fuels. Zero.
 
1948man said:
I'm letting a 3.5 to 1 solution of molasses sit in my tank now. I found a feed store that would sell bulk molasses for $2.50 a gallon if you bring your own container. I used aquarium rocks before the molasses to get the loose scale out. My question is how do you put the sealant (Caswell in my case) in. Do you plug the sending unit and petcock holes and pour thru the filling hole and then just roll the tank to different positions while leaving the filling hole open? Also how are you sure you have all the rocks out? I don't hear any and flushed with a water hose before the molasses. Do you use a mirror to view the nooks and crannies? Thnx Jim M
Click to expand...


Go to Lowes, Home Depot or any hardware/plumbing store.
You need to buy some pieces of rubber to plug the holes.

They sell sheets of rubber for just a couple bucks a piece or less.
It's maybe 6"x 6" or so in Width and Length.
They sell them in different thicknesses too.
I think I bought one about 1/8th of an Inch thick... or so.

Just cut the rubber sheet to the size of your holes.
(petcock and fuel sending unit size.)

make sure you cut the piece big enough, so that it COVERS THE BOLT HOLES too!


Now find yourself a piece of thin/hard plastic or thin wood.

Mark on the plastic/wood where your bolt holes are at on the tank.
Now drill 'em real quick.

Then just line up all the holes, and bolt the pieces on to plug up the tank!

(You MIGHT need a couple washers too.....just for safety.)

So basically, the idea, is to have a rubber piece, followed by a support-piece behind it, to evenly distribute the force, when you bolt it all down.
(you can't just bolt a flappy piece of rubber on the tank....it won't seal! You need that support piece.....)


You ALWAYS leave the Gas-cap off or loose if using chemicals....because it WILL explode, if you don't.

But if your just shaking rocks around in the tank, I guess you can cap it off.
 
I know two people that have used Kreme. They both said that it was terrible. A while back, I bought a GT750 that had a Kreme job that was obviously botched. This made me decide to go the POR 15 (kit) route. The result was great. The inside of the tank had a beautiful metallic looking finish versus the weird Kreme color.
 
The best solution for rusted out tanks? A product called Evapo-Rust. You can get it at Harbor Freight for about 30 bucks a gallon, need at least half the amount your tank holds, 3 gallons will pretty much do anything GS. You can buy it on eBay for about 100 bucks for 5 gallons shipped, I use it alot so that's the route I went. This stuff is the BEES KNEES! I've tried all the tricks, vinegar, muratic acid, you name it. Nothing works as good as this stuff. Doesn't take long either, I usually soak 24 hours on each side, rinse it out with water, fill it with gas, done deal. I've done at least half a dozen tanks with it over the past year and it hasn't failed me yet! Oh, and IF you are unfortunate enough to start with a tank that has already had a BAD coating applied that is peeling off? Strip it out with MEK, methyl ethyl ketone, I found it at Home Depot. But BE CAREFUL! This stuff is TOXIC! Wear gloves and make sure and do it in a well ventilated area! A couple quarts of this stuff will completely strip a tank! Once the coating is out, use the Evapo-Rust and soon you will be a happy camper! GREAT STUFF!!!!
 
I’ve used MEK before and there were still large patches of sealer remaining after several days of soaking. Paint stripper was more effective on the tanks I stripped. If using paint stripper you have to provide an outgassing vent path or the tank can be damaged.
 
I am also looking at Evapo-Rust for some minor rusting in the bottom of my tank.

83GS1100E_Tornado, it appears that you do not line the tank after the Evapo-Rust. Do you have to repeat the Evapo-Rust treatment after a year or two?

A friend here in Toronto has suggested Renu at the Gas Tank Exchange (approximately $150). This is some kind of acidic sauce followed by a urethane or epoxy coating. They drill a small hole to make sure they get all the rust flakes out of the tank and then plug it after the coating. I am wondering if this is worthwhile, or if Evapo-Rust would be good enough for minor rusting without further treatment.

Jim
 
Nope, don't need to reline the tank. Haven't had one "around" for longer than about six months, so can't sware to the long term effects. If you keep it full of gas, I can't see why you would ever have to line it?
 
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