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  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

Fzr 1000

Admittedly I'm new to hydraulic clutches as all my other bikes are older and are cable operated.

However, I understand how they work and feel comfortable with the inner workings.

That being said this is where I am at.

The bike has been sitting for some time now since I set the valve gaps and cleaned the carbs. Today with the weather great and me off work, I decided to get it out for some initial tuning runs.

I noticed right off that the clutch lever had no feeling so I bled the system, and got pressure back. It engaged fine and shifted as it should. Got back to the garage and checked the fluid which was a bit low, and the master reservoir was dirty so I removed the master and slave and flushed and cleaned the system.

Now after refitting, refilling and bleeding the system again I've got good feeling on the lever however, when I put it in gear from neutral, it stalls. Doesn't really jump or anything as if the clutch was still engaged but simply dies.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Nic
 
Well, might have found the problem putzing around the other fzr forums.

There is a kickstand safety switch that will not allow the bike to be run in gear if its open.

It may have gone out or be gunked up. Will have to check that out tomorrow.

Nic
 
Glad you found the problem and hopefully not too complicated! These new fangled bikes and their safety shut off switches :rolleyes:
 
With the kickstand switch issue resolved, I was able to continue with some more tuning.

I was having some problems with the bike being overly rich. Quite literally, if I gave it any throttle at all it would bog and want to die.

I started out with the recomended dynojet settings for the stage 3 kit since I'm running SS Vance and hines exhaust and K&N twin pod filters.

Pulled the carbs to recheck the jetting and discovered that the PO had 138 main jets installed and not the recomended dynojet 128 jets :-s No idea how it ever ran with that set up.

Got ahold of some dj 128 and started with the needle on the 4th clip down. Still crazy rich issues. Bike would bog with throttle past 1/8-1/4 turn.

I wanted to start tuning the main jet first as per the factory pro tuning guide but i couldnt even get it into the mid range lol. Pulled the carbs and moved the needle down. Still had richness issues, so I finally put it in the top clip and removed the dj spacer which sank the needle down as far as it would go. AND weeeeeeee. Still have a slight stumble from a roll on at 2-3k but the bike pulls amazingly from 7k-redline at WoT cold or hot. Also, once past the stumble at 3k it pulls crazy strong from 5-7k at WoT. So I'm pretty sure Ive got the main and needle settings pretty close.


Tuning runs were done up a long steep hill close to my fathers house and once I reached the top I actually had some air time :D. This thing is fast fast fast.


Next step will be to lean out the bottom end slightly by adjusting the float level from the recomemded stock 13-14mm to 15mm and that should help to eliminate the stumble at 3k.

Pics to come.

Nic
 
Last edited:
Interestingly the dynojet kit for the FZR uses smaller main jets than stock and has a small "pin" that is used to block off the main air jet.

I was told by a member of the FZR archives forum that since I don't have the exup valve that I would never fully eliminate the stumble at 3k. :rolleyes:

There are lots of guys who put full SS pipes on their fzrs and I find it hard to believe that you cant tune the bike properly without the exup
...Guess I'm out to prove him wrong :twistedevil:


This forum remains one of the best resources for information out there. Too bad I can't find a fzr forum to even come close to this one!


Nic
 
Woot looks like it may be dyno time tomorrow afternoon. Local shop Cafe Racer in downtown Kansas City, may be able to squeeze me in.

Hopefully I can get some pics/video.

Nic
 
niclpnut said:
I was told by a member of the FZR archives forum that since I don't have the exup valve that I would never fully eliminate the stumble at 3k. :rolleyes:

There are lots of guys who put full SS pipes on their fzrs and I find it hard to believe that you cant tune the bike properly without the exup
...Guess I'm out to prove him wrong :twistedevil:

Nic
Click to expand...

A friend of mine has swapped to SS pipes with no exup valve and his bike doesn't stumble. At least not when I rode it. Of course most of the time I was riding it well above 3k :twistedevil:

I can ask him how he set it up if you like.
 
Tim Tom said:
A friend of mine has swapped to SS pipes with no exup valve and his bike doesn't stumble. At least not when I rode it. Of course most of the time I was riding it well above 3k :twistedevil:

I can ask him how he set it up if you like.
Click to expand...



That would be great. I'm betting that once I lower he float level the bottom end will clean up.

Nic
 
niclpnut said:
That would be great. I'm betting that once I lower he float level the bottom end will clean up.

Nic
Click to expand...

I've sent him an email about it. I'll let you know his answer tomorrow. I don't recall exactly how he did it, but I know he had an issue with that exup valve before.
 
Heard back from my friend with the FZR and it looks like I was mistaken as he says his bike still stumbles at 3k without the EXUP... This is what he said.

"I had three sets of carbs,jet kits,lots of stuff but as good as I got it it will not be perfect from 3 to 3.5 thou without the exup.
The EXUP costs power at full RPM but throttles better at 3 to 3.5.
I ultimatly got it as good as I could and learned to ride around the stumble area. One guy at trackday with an FZR told me they all did this once you pulled the EXUP valve????

NEVER DISCONNECT THE SERVO MOTOR TO THE EXUP,it will not rev above 4000 if you unplug it,FOUND THAT OUT THE HARD WAY.

TIP TWO,,,,,,,,,,,dont modify the airbox in any way,same reason as above,STOCK IS BEST!!"

I hope this is somewhat helpful, at least know that someone else was able to set the bike up to be ride able. I've ridden it and I didn't notice a thing. The engine makes so little power at that low of an RPM that you don't spend a whole lot of time there. The higher you take the tach the happier the engine.
 
Tim Tom said:
Heard back from my friend with the FZR and it looks like I was mistaken as he says his bike still stumbles at 3k without the EXUP... This is what he said.

"I had three sets of carbs,jet kits,lots of stuff but as good as I got it it will not be perfect from 3 to 3.5 thou without the exup.
The EXUP costs power at full RPM but throttles better at 3 to 3.5.
I ultimatly got it as good as I could and learned to ride around the stumble area. One guy at trackday with an FZR told me they all did this once you pulled the EXUP valve????

NEVER DISCONNECT THE SERVO MOTOR TO THE EXUP,it will not rev above 4000 if you unplug it,FOUND THAT OUT THE HARD WAY.

TIP TWO,,,,,,,,,,,dont modify the airbox in any way,same reason as above,STOCK IS BEST!!"

I hope this is somewhat helpful, at least know that someone else was able to set the bike up to be ride able. I've ridden it and I didn't notice a thing. The engine makes so little power at that low of an RPM that you don't spend a whole lot of time there. The higher you take the tach the happier the engine.
Click to expand...


Well dropping the float level down to 15mm did the trick. Zero stumble roll on from idle past 5k.

If I snap the trottle wide open at 2-3k it will bog a bit. But the engine really likes the higher rps and doesn't have the bottom end grunt like my gs1100es.

Nic
 
I have a suspicion that the main is a bit too large. Wasn't able to get on the dyno today but hopefully later this week or early next so I can confirm.

It's not easy or very safe trying to do WoT runs to redline around where I live :p

With the plug in the main air jet from the kit, the bike runs rich, so I am thinking the 124 will work better than the 128 and the needle will then be raised a notch or 2.

Nic
 
As it sits right now with the fairings off still.

temporary_zpsf561ea68.jpg


My fathers Packard in the background. Had to fix a headlight for him.


Picked up a 94-95 1000 fairing. Has the cat's eye dual headlights. Really dig the look over the single light.

temporary_zpsdac28e87.jpg


This is the European color scheme. If I decide to use it I'll be repainting it to the red/white/blue color scheme of the 93. Need to find the inner panel covers that go over the ram air tubes. They have a slightly different shape than the ones from the 93. Have all the other components for the fairing though including the mounts/brackets.

It is in better condition than my current fairing. A few cracks around a couple mounting holes but at least no large missing pieces like my other fairing.

the 93 Fairing for comparison:

temporary_zps332ee6ed.jpg



Nic
 
with most of the tuning finished, I decided to get the ol girl all dressed up.

I put the original fairing on for now. It hasn't been finished yet, but I wanted to ride it!

temporary_zps0fdd919e.jpg


Still need to clean up the rims. A light polish would make them look really good, or maybe white paint.

Nic
 
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