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Gas gauge drops as speed increases

  • Thread starter Thread starter Red1100E
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Red1100E

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It is an 82 GS1100E. This is a strange thing, as the speed goes up the gas gauge drops. At 70 MPH it reads 1/4 lower than sitting still. If it is topped off and reading full sitting still, at 70 it reads 3/4. You can watch it drop as the speed goes up.
 
When did this problem start. How long have you had the bike?
Have you checked the charging system voltage when the problem occurs?
 
I have had it for 20 years, I haven't checked the voltage when it happens. I guess I need to strap my fluke on it and go for a ride, or just check it stationary.
 
All mine seem to do it and I attribute it to the air rushing thru the back of the gauges and cooling the bimetal strip that actuates the needle itself. Slow to a stop and it reads correctly again. But my drop is maybe 1/8 of a tank at the most. Ive learned that its just an indicator thats "relatively close" and not like a cars as far as consistant accuracy.
 
All mine seem to do it and I attribute it to the air rushing thru the back of the gauges and cooling the bimetal strip that actuates the needle itself. Slow to a stop and it reads correctly again. But my drop is maybe 1/8 of a tank at the most. Ive learned that its just an indicator thats "relatively close" and not like a cars as far as consistant accuracy.


It will go back up as soon as I slow down. When I speed back up it drops. I am going to check the charge voltage at speed and see what it looks like.
 
Update

Update

14.6 volts at 70 MPH, stock gearing, at an idle 12.5 volts, at 2500 rpms, 13.5 volts. Does it sound somewhat normal for a GE1100. It has an AGM battery in it, it's about 10 months old. The battery is made in Vietnam, a little scary, but it cranks it over good.
 
It make sense what Chuck has said, My gs1000 Gs gauge did the same thing and I hadn't really paid it much attention ,but then I realized it doesn't change as much with the fairing on the bike. You could try blocking airflow some how and see if that made a difference. Also agree they are not very accurate.
 
My 650G does the same thing and I have no charging problems whatsoever...it's funny, because it looks like it is just sucking the gas back, like a big yacht.
 
Neither of my '850's did it and I can't fathom them being from the factory that way either. I could be wrong but it just doesn't make sense. Vehicle owners would be up in arms if that were the case today.
 
When I fill up the 81 1100 the fuel gage moves all the to empty. When I get to about 1/4 tank it reads normal all the way to empty. Yes I ran out of gas a couple of times but that's a whole other story...
 
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That's the result of a break in the fuel tank senders resistance wire.
 
When I fill up the 81 1100 the fuel gage moves all the to empty. When I get to about 1/4 tank it reads normal all the way to empty. Yes I ran out of gas a couple of times but that's a hole other story...
HUH?
Maybe your sending unit needs to be looked at:confused:
 
Gas gauge problems

Gas gauge problems

My 650G does the same thing and I have no charging problems whatsoever...it's funny, because it looks like it is just sucking the gas back, like a big yacht.


The same here. I started to say that I don't have any charging problems. I will say I don't have any I know of. I was thinking that a resistor, in this case the variable resistor in the tank. Will draw more amps if the volts go up. There is a formula amps=volts divided by resistance. You can calculate the amp draw with that formula, and when the volts climb so will the amps. I am wondering if the increased amp flow at higher RPM's makes the gauge drop. I need to test it sitting still and see if the gauge drops with voltage rise.

The wind is interesting, I cant figure out technically how it would change the reading so consistently, but I have learned to never say never until the fat lady sings. I am going to dig into it more, and I will post what I find.
 
That'll be interesting to see where you get to...since I installed my new R/R, my charging numbers are consistent above idle, so I don't think that increasing Voltage output with RPM is the gremlin in my case.
 
I am wondering if the increased amp flow at higher RPM's makes the gauge drop. I need to test it sitting still and see if the gauge drops with voltage rise.
The voltage 'should' be stable above 2500 rpms so I doubt that's the case in this instance. Voltage reduction caused by corroded connections resulting in a current change? BUT only at speed? most curious indeed.

Clean the all connections in the fuel gauge circuit and try it again.
 
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I bet you are missing some bit of rubber that is suppsed to keep air out of the gauge.
 
Is the fuel gauge circuit stabilised? I don't recall whether there's a stabiliser in the circuit and it doesn't ring a bell, at all. Certainly, on unstabilised car fuel gauges the needle shimmies and shakes like a crack addict, so you can tell whether one is fitted or not, but the Suzuki gauge is fairly slow-moving/reacting as standard, which raises the question if one is fitted or not. If there's one in place it might be the source of problems.
 
All mine seem to do it and I attribute it to the air rushing thru the back of the gauges and cooling the bimetal strip that actuates the needle itself.
I have never heard of a bimetal strip in the fuel gauge circuit. The only bimetal strip that I know of on a GS is in the turn signal flasher.



I am wondering if the increased amp flow at higher RPM's makes the gauge drop. I need to test it sitting still and see if the gauge drops with voltage rise.
This would make sense, except for one small detail. See the following comment for details.

Is the fuel gauge circuit stabilised? I don't recall whether there's a stabiliser in the circuit and it doesn't ring a bell, at all.
As I understand it, there is a 7-volt regulator that is built into the fuel gauge. Because it runs on a steady 7 volts, it will not be affected by any changes in the charging system. At least not until your system voltage gets below 7 volts, but by the time that happens, fuel gauge accuracy will be among the LEAST of your concerns. :p

Because of the way the float in the tank works, and the position of the float in the tank, it is susceptible to steep hills and brisk acceleration, but all of the gauges on our GSes are very slow to respond, and I would never notice a drop of 1/4 tank by the time I got to 70 mph.

Also, while I can understand a quick-responding gauge that would drop 1/4 tank during acceleration, what happens while you maintain a steady 70 mph? Does it stay at the lower reading? If it does, does it then go back up when you slow down? If it does, it is related to road speed or engine speed? Try this: at 70 mph, while the gauge is reading lower, pull the clutch, let the engine idle. If the gauge stays low, it's not charging system related.

.
 
That particular year uses a magnetic gauge movement whereas some of the earlier years used a bi-metallic gauge that was temperature compensated.
 
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