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Gear Ratios for 750ES and Idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter opasnost
  • Start date Start date
O

opasnost

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I'm trying to set my idle correctly but the problem is my tach is just not accurate. It sits at 1000rpm with the key out of the ignition. However it does work just its not calibrated right.

So first is there anyway to fix this?

Second, my speedo still works great....could someone let me know what speed 1000 RPM and 1800 RPM is in third gear or second or forth so I can roughly gauge where I should set my idle. Or give me the gear ratios and I'll use some math to figure it out.

I read somewhere that 1800 RPM is where I should be syncing my carbs at. Correct me if I'm wrong please. Is there any threads or other resources that I can follow on how to sync my carbs or could someone give me a guideline how they do it. Forgot to mention its an 83 gs 750es

Thanks in advance
 
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well if it works, but at 1000 when off, then set idle to 2800 according to your tach and you should be spot on ?
 
opasnost said:
I read somewhere that 1800 RPM is where I should be syncing my carbs at. Correct me if I'm wrong please. Is there any threads or other resources that I can follow on how to sync my carbs or could someone give me a guideline how they do it.
Click to expand...
If you take a few moments to introduce yourself in the "Owners" forum, BassCliff, our resident Welcome Wagon Host, will see you quicker and get you your own copy of his "Mega Welcome". In there, you will find virtually everything you will ever need to know about working on your bike.

Now, to answer your questions:
The factory service manual says to sync the carbs with the engine speed between 1500 and 2000.
However, many of us have probably done many sync jobs before we ever saw that suggestion, and did them at, or just above idle, say right around 1200. I still do mine around 1200, even knowing that the manual suggests a slightly higher speed.

For the procedure, well, let's just say that it's in the manual, but BassCliff also has a tutorial that shows the process quite well.

.
 
Those electronic tachs are well known for going wrong & usually they don't follow any pattern (i.e. they don't just read 1,000 over they jump around all over the place).

You should be able to judge 2,000 by ear for synching. It's not that critical....

You should also be able to set idle by ear. Trim it down to where it starts to struggle & threaten to stall & then give it a little tweak back until it's stable & "job done".

Some multimeter's will read RPM as will some timing guns or go to Harbor Freight & get one of their cheap electronic tachs that you connect up to the coil.....

Someone on here was working on a "how to" repair that tach board so you might want to have a search round for that. It's a fairly simple board from memory & not "micro" sized. You should be able to replace the components by hand if you're handy with a soldering iron... :)
 
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