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Getting the stock airbox manifold back on...

  • Thread starter Thread starter c3powil
  • Start date Start date
C

c3powil

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This is ridiculous. Ive been trying to get the plastic stock airbox piece that connects to the carburetors back on my 1982 gs550 and it just wont fit! I can get it into it's place when the carbs arent on, but then its impossible for the carbs to fit and vice versa. I also tried putting the carbs and the plastic manifold together and then putting them into the space but it's still an impossible fit with the engine intake boots already bolted on. What am I missing here. Extremely frustrated.
 
Hope someone answers as I am having the same issue on a GS750L I just bought.
 
I thought on the 550 it helped to unbolt the front of the rear fender, but I have not worked on one myself.
 
Koolaid kid is correct. You have to unbolt the rear inner fender and the air filter box then push the rear inner fender down. That will give you a another precious inch to push the air box assembly back as far as you can. A little Vaseline on the inside of the boots doesn't hurt either. Make sure they are nice and warm too so they are pliable.

They are difficult but not impossible. Unbolting the front of the inner fender is they key as it lets you get more space to pull the whole assembly back. Some people then use bungy cords to hold the plastic part back while you wrestle the carbs in. I've done it twice so it can be done.

Good luck!
 
It was a bear on my 1100. Its a pain but it has to fit. The exact reason I'm thinking pods.
 
You may also very well need new boots on the air box side. Unscrew the rear fender and airbox and slide both back as far as possible. Slide the carbs in from the right side and pull back as far as possible (it'll take some work). Attach the carbs to the air box itself and tighten in place. Slide everything into the intake boots.

I had similar issues last year though as I could get everything attached but the airbox kept sliding off. Replacing the airbox boots like I said earlier finally fixed my problem. Do a titles only search for airbox boots and my username and you'll see my issues.

Actually I went and found it for you - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=194805&highlight=airbox+boots
 
You'll be an expert in, ?well someday for 10 minutes.

You'll be an expert in, ?well someday for 10 minutes.

All that's gonna help, plus some experience.
Just my note: I tried grease on the upwind side of the intake boot to carb. They slide on real good, but then they slide off real good when you tighten up the clamps. That got really frustrating.
So I keep them real clean. Water might work good enough, and it will evap. real quick.
 
I use a very light coating of plumber's silicone grease: Gunk silicone grease I get it at Lowes. I also use it on fuel injector o-rings, btw.
It must be a very light coating, too much and they will slip off.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I thought on the 550 it helped to unbolt the front of the rear fender, but I have not worked on one myself.
Click to expand...
Do you have to unbolt the fender on the 550E? :-k

I ask because I am currently working on a 550L ('81 model) for a new member. The front half of the fender is plastic and it just snaps out of some grommets, much like the side covers. :o

.
 
Steve said:
Do you have to unbolt the fender on the 550E? :-k

I ask because I am currently working on a 550L ('81 model) for a new member. The front half of the fender is plastic and it just snaps out of some grommets, much like the side covers. :o

.
Click to expand...
Not the plastic piece no but the chrome fender would need unbolting if you had to go that far. At least that's the way on my 550T;)
 
Steve, I don't recall now if mine had bolts or just the grommets holding it in place but we are referring to the inner fender, black plastic that is directly behind the air box, not the actual rear fender.
 
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