Glueing base gasket to cylinder

[Gumpster]

Finally Started doing the rebuild on my GS 1000. Everything was going well until I tried to lower the cylinders onto the crankcase while fitting the Pistons. It was getting late and should have waited until morning. i slightly damaged the base gasket so a new OEM is ordered. I don't want to repeat this error so I was considering glueing the new gasket to the cylinder base. This would keep the gasket out of harms way while I fiddle with the Pistons and I would be able to properly position the gasket with the cylinder on a workbench. I have seen various automotive gaskets that have adhesive on one side to aid in installation. I.E. Water pump and thermostat gaskets. Sounds like a good idea to me....

 

[glib]

I haven?t done this yet but wouldn?t masking tape that doesn?t leave residue behind work more cleanly than glue?

 

[Gumpster]

There are two ways I was planning on applying adhesive. Lay the gasket upside down on some cardboard and very lightly mist some 3M spray adhesive. The other idea I had was use some of the sealer left over from joining the crankcase halves. (Very lightly applied)
Tape is an excellent idea also and will do some trial runs with the slightly damaged gasket while waiting on the replacement gasket. Thanks for the response.

 

[Steve]

Even better is a light film of light grease. Either regular "axle" grease or even Vaseline.
Makes it tacky enough to hold the gasket down, but won't leave any gaps at corners, like tape might.

You certainly don't want to glue anything there, unless you can GUARANTEE that you will never open it up again.

.

 

[tkent02]

A rubber band around each cylinder will hold the gasket up just fine.

 

[Gumpster]

I like that idea! I just wanted a plan when the new part arrives in order to have better results and now I do. Thanks Tom!!

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

tkent always comes in with the simple but effective solutions. He's like the Russian guy who said "why don't we just use a pencil?" after NASA spent millions to develop a pen that would write in zero gravity.

 

[Gumpster]

Now all I need to know is what color rubber bands to use.. Red, green or beige? Maybe NASA will know since the pen thingy has been solved. It really is a very simple solution, just wish I would have come up with it.

 

[DimitriT]

Just did this on the 550. If the rip is on the egg shaped portion around the oil channels I would toss the gasket. If the rip is anywhere else I would apply a little sealer over the rip and use the gasket.

Also I always apply a coating of sealer (black) on the egg shaped portion, both sides. That's the only place where I've ever seen leaks.

 

[rapidray]

Do NOT use grease or oil or ANY kind of lubricant on a base gasket unless you want to take it apart AGAIN to fix the oil LEAK it will cause!!!! Gasgacinch is your friend in this case & will help it NOT to leak!! I REALLY wish people that do NOT know what they are talking about would just stop giving BAD advice!!!
Ray.

 

[Guest]

the green bands are for heavy duty use and entirely appropriate. and I feel your pain, I botched a base gasket doing mine for the first time.

 

[limeex2]

Do NOT use grease or oil or ANY kind of lubricant on a base gasket unless you want to take it apart AGAIN to fix the oil LEAK it will cause!!!! Gasgacinch is your friend in this case & will help it NOT to leak!! I REALLY wish people that do NOT know what they are talking about would just stop giving BAD advice!!!
Ray.

This is how it is done at the factory. This is why one side is so damn hard to remove. They use a sealant as mentioned and it stays put. Same with valve covers, clutch covers ect. And use SPARINGLY!!! and uniformly or it will ooz out the sides and to undesirable places.

Installation of the Cyl's is simple. I do the inside ones first. rotate to get pistons close to tdc so they are easier to work with. With the ring end gaps spaced 120 degrees apart, try to put 2 sets of rings where they easiest to be able to squeeze together. Ease the pistons into the chamfered cylinder liners till they gently rest on the upper/1st ring set. Squeeze and work the 1 piston ring into the bore. DO NOT use a screw driver. If the cylinder wont drop down to rest on the second ring, use the plastic end of a screw driver to tap, no hammers.There will enough play to now do the same to the 2nd piston. Repeat for 2nd and 3rd rings. Be oh so patient on those oil rings. Repeat procedure on the #1 & 4 cyls.

I'm sure people may ring in with other methods and please do, but this has worked for me and I never snagged a ring, or had to repair a leak.

 

[eddypeck]

hmmm... I have this task ahead of me and don't want to do the same.

So that I can understand what went wrong, would I be right to think you had the gasket in position and placed on the top the of bottom end and lowered cylinders over the studs, when you got to the bit where you needed to line the pistons and rings into the pots, and some how you snagged the gasket and caused damage?

So are you now thinking to fix the gasket to the base of the cylinders?

I can't see any other way. This will be a first tear down and rebuild for me and to say I'm nervous enough about it is an understatement, then it seems everywhere I keep reading about the various ways it can go wrong! lol.

I've already had one head gasket damaged in the post http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?249945

 

[Nessism]

The forward (most outer) studs should have a hollow tube "pin" installed. These pins position the base gasket and assure it can't move during install of the cylinder. Do you have these pins installed?

 

[eil]

He's like the Russian guy who said "why don't we just use a pencil?" after NASA spent millions to develop a pen that would write in zero gravity.

BTW that never actually happened: https://www.snopes.com/business/genius/spacepen.asp

 

[Gumpster]

The hollow dowels are in place. They were when I tried to fit the cylinders the first time. The mistake was the base gasket was placed on the upper crankcase instead of being secured to the base of the cylinders. I plan to secure it to the cylinder base this time. This will reduce the exposure of the gasket to pistons and supporting wood blocks during installation. I'm sure it can be done either way but this way will be safer for me..

The gasgacinch product is only available by ordering it so permatex high tack gasket sealant will be substituted sparingly and the GREEN rubber bands just for added insurance..
i will ill document with photos and share results regardless of the outcome.

Anyone planning this job soon (Eddypeck), I highly recommend taking some extra time to clean the inner cylinder studs through the cylinder cooling fins prior to disassembly. When I pulled the cylinder, bunches of crud dropped into the crankcase. I was separating the crankcase halves on mine anyway to repair some threads but it turns into a much bigger project.

 

[Nessism]

The gasket needs to go on the side with the hollow dowel's otherwise the gasket can get damaged when the two parts come together. I've alway put the dowels and gasket on the crankcase.

 

[Fjbj40]

I always put it on the crankcase also, as Nessism says, the dowels hold it in place, never used glue.

 

[Gumpster]

Thanks for the response. My problem wasn't with keeping the gasket positioned but rather keeping it (the base gasket) damage free during piston installation.

 

[Gumpster]

Thanks for the response. My problem wasn't with keeping the gasket positioned but rather keeping it (the base gasket) damage free during piston installation. Even if no gasket sealant is used, I would still hold the gasket up on the cylinder out of harms way with rubber bands around the base of the cylinders until the Pistons are successfully inserted. It just makes sense to me to isolate a delicate gasket from potential exposure to damage. It's the same philosophy as using a fender cover or taping off adjacent painted surfaces when installing components.. Just trying to be cautious this go around and do no want to order a third gasket. Shipping is kinda slow this time of year also..