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Good, longer shocks...?

  • Thread starter Thread starter makenzie71
  • Start date Start date
M

makenzie71

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Where can I find some? I would like a little more ground clearance back but don't have the time to really build another exhaust just yet. What are good options?
 
If they're eye/clevis type ( i dont know what bike you're talking about, and zook used both eye/eye and eye/clevis type depending on the model) You can either get some MDI's up to 14.5 inches eye to clevis, or old CB900/1100 piggy backs are a common replacement on some of the cafe jobs ive seen. The MDIs are cheap (bout 80 bucks or so shipped) and actually make for a good, if slightly stiff, cheapie performance shock. Leaps and bounds better than the saggy stock junk. The CB shocks you might pay a little more for (for a good, clean set) and are a bit more versitile in adjustment than the MDIs.

On my 77 750 cafe project, i ended up going with the GS1100 swinger, which is about 2 inches over stock, i needed to gain some ride hight back so i went with the MDIs. Not disappointed at all personally.

Oh i forgot to add, the CB1100 shocks are just about 14.25 inches IIRC.
And, if you're using a bike that has eye/eye shocks, I do believe the Kaw ZRX uses a nice eye/eye piggy jobby.
 
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You can also order Progressive 12 series shocks in several lengths.

I've been seriously considering bumping up my rear shocks on the GS850 to 13.5 inches so that the rear axle will clear the muffler. Changing tires is about twice the pain in the ass that it should be with 13 inch shocks. (It's wearing Progressive 12 series shocks now, so I'd just swap the springs over.)

However, this might not let the wheel clear the ground on the centerstand, so I haven't decided...
 
Progressives are a bit out of my price range at the moment, but these MDI's look ok enough for what I need.

http://www.hvccycle.com/mdischocks.htm

I'm not very familiar with how to determine spring rates and such so which of those would I really be looking for? There's a 14.5" shock that's perfect, length-wise...I'm currently on 13" aftermarket shocks that work really well, but just don't have the height I need.
 
I don't suppose you'd care to reveal what sort of motorcycle you're working on...?

You may find that someone has already done a similar shock swap and has helpful information.
 
well it's in my sig...I guess that'd help if it'd show up every time I post lol...

1981 GS750
 
The Honda DOHC CB750/900/1100 & CBX shocks will fit and are an inch longer (you have to make a spacer for the top pin but it's easy). You can pick up secondhand Konis for the above fairly cheaply over here and as they're completely rebuildable you can be running on fresh suspension and not worn out stuff.
 
Rebuildable would really nice...I've been ponderign rebuildable stuff. I'd actually, in the end, like to make my own. I don't understand, really, why rear shocks aren't commonly made along the lines as the front.
 
Then again, I really like the shocks I currently have...work excellent...I may just weld a new mount further up the swingarm.
 
Koni (now branded IKON) are nice, but other than the rebuildability factor, not much better/different than the MDIs. And, at 80 bucks a pair, they probably cost less in parts and time than the Konis. If you're going to get into serious performance shocks, there are FAR better than Konis. Now, if youre going for period correct, they're certainly that.
 
I am just wondering how much longer can you go with the shocks and not change the way the bike steers or handles? I have some air shocks from a yamaha. I didn't think I could use them because of the longer length. between 1/2 inch and a inch. I would have to find some kind of bushing for the top mount because it is a little bigger bushing, the inside hole. they would be loose. not trying to steal your thread but I really thought they had to stay the same.:confused:
 
You can't change the shocks at all without changing the geometry...thus any change in length will change how the bike handles. However, a change in the bike's geometry doesn't mean a bad change in handling.

Another however, though, is changing the shock length .5~1" you likely won't notice any change in the handling.
 
Could you weld on a "pair of high heels" on the bottom of your center stand ?

You can also order Progressive 12 series shocks in several lengths.

I've been seriously considering bumping up my rear shocks on the GS850 to 13.5 inches so that the rear axle will clear the muffler. Changing tires is about twice the pain in the ass that it should be with 13 inch shocks. (It's wearing Progressive 12 series shocks now, so I'd just swap the springs over.)

However, this might not let the wheel clear the ground on the centerstand, so I haven't decided...
 
You can't change the shocks at all without changing the geometry...thus any change in length will change how the bike handles. However, a change in the bike's geometry doesn't mean a bad change in handling.

Another however, though, is changing the shock length .5~1" you likely won't notice any change in the handling.

Late last season, I went from the stock 1100E shocks to a pair of Fox +1" shocks, and there is quite a noticeable difference, in the quickness of the steering. Oddly, the seat height seems to have increased by more than 1" too, which I attribute to less sag with with these, than the Suzuki Showa items. I suppose there will be a trade off in high speed stability, but I have not explored the upper limits as yet.

Tony.
 
Keep in mind it's hard to make a good comparison on height change when you go from shorter, bad shocks to longer, good shocks.
 
If I tried the air shocks and put bronze bushings inserted in the bushings already there to make them the same size as the top shock mount on my bike would it work or would I need some kinda rubber ones? I was just wondering if the bronze would break? that way it would fill in between the shock bushing which has to big a hole to fit on the bike mount.
 
just make new mounts from hockey pucks. i used to make motor mounts for my cars with hockey pucks. pretty high durometer and comparable to polyurethane, but not high enough to break stuff. pucks usually are a buck a piece, and thats in oklahoma where hockey is pretty much non-existent.
 
what do you have to do to get the old ones out? I am guessing a hammer and a socket? I don't think I have ever really tried.
 
I like those MDIs. Just wish you could find them in the other direction. A 10" set would be sweet.
 
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