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gs 1000 carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter ccriley6
  • Start date Start date
C

ccriley6

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Looking for info on the mikuni carbs on this gs1000. Looking into ordering a carb kit and not really sure what all i need. Im not sure what year it is as its not in the original bike. I believe it to be a 79........thanks
IMG_20160721_193133679.jpg
 
Is this a decent set of sync guages for the money? Anyone have experience with them
s-l400.jpg
 
I have a set of those gauges pictured. they work fine, only problem is the pipes are not very good. I replaced mine with silicone pipe and they are more flexible.
 
What were the factory size main jets for the vm26 carbs? Mine appear to be 112.5.
Say i wanted to run some k&n pods, would a bigger jet and needle height change be necessary? The clip on the needles are in the middle slot.
 
ccriley6 said:
What were the factory size main jets for the vm26 carbs? Mine appear to be 112.5.
Say i wanted to run some k&n pods, would a bigger jet and needle height change be necessary? The clip on the needles are in the middle slot.
Click to expand...

Bump............
 
standard mains are 95. if you want to run pods and you have a 4 into 1 exhaust then go for a Dynojet stage 3 kit.
 
DohcBikes said:
Oh my god it's so awesome
Click to expand...
Thanks.....its not the fanciest but works. Its the "poor boy" version....lol
Most all the others i run with are running newer fuel injected gixxers and busa's.
I currently have all the sheet metal off and am in the process of setting valves and adj carbs. I just got the carbs cleaned and put back on.
 
Got the carbs cleaned and put back together, i now have some popping at slight throttle....around 2-3k rpm on up. Where to start......
 
Go here and follow the VM rebuild tutorial on the right side. Get the orings from cycleorings.com and get the new intake manifold orings on page 3 as well. Set the bottom PILOT screws at around 7/8 out and the side MIXTURE screws at around 1 1/2 out from gently seated as your initial starting points. You fine tune with the side screws and leave the bottom ones alone. You can do the carbs for about 50 bucks yourself.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://cycleorings.com/
 
chuck hahn said:
Go here and follow the VM rebuild tutorial on the right side. Get the orings from cycleorings.com and get the new intake manifold orings on page 3 as well. Set the bottom PILOT screws at around 7/8 out and the side MIXTURE screws at around 1 1/2 out from gently seated as your initial starting points. You fine tune with the side screws and leave the bottom ones alone. You can do the carbs for about 50 bucks yourself.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://cycleorings.com/
Click to expand...

I did follow the tutorial and install orings from robert barr. The only thing i ran into is my intake boots didnt have orings. They didnt have the groove for them. Im assuming they are aftermarket maybe????? I also set the pilot and side mixture screws back to the way they were. Thanks for the advice
 
make some rubberized gasket material gaskets for the intakes then...they need to be 100% sealed as well.
 
chuck hahn said:
Go here and follow the VM rebuild tutorial on the right side. Get the orings from cycleorings.com and get the new intake manifold orings on page 3 as well. Set the bottom PILOT screws at around 7/8 out and the side MIXTURE screws at around 1 1/2 out from gently seated as your initial starting points. You fine tune with the side screws and leave the bottom ones alone. You can do the carbs for about 50 bucks yourself.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://cycleorings.com/
Click to expand...

Are you sayin turn the pilot screws 7/8 of a full turn from bottomed out? And 1.5 full turns on the side mixture screws?
 
Yes. The bottom pilot screw sets the fuel flow for idle and up to about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle and it helps transition to the main circuit as your laying into the throttle. You set it and forget it. All fine tuning is done with the side mixture screws. Turning the screws in will richen the cylinder and out will lean the cylinder.

Seat the bottom ones gently..when they want to stop turning in DO NOT force them further..start counting out from there. Forcing them will break the points off them and can possibly block the port. the side ones are blunt and not so susseptable to breakage. But still dont ham fist those either.
 
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