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gs 1000 carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter ccriley6
  • Start date Start date
chuck hahn said:
Yes. The bottom pilot screw sets the fuel flow for idle and up to about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle and it helps transition to the main circuit as your laying into the throttle. You set it and forget it. All fine tuning is done with the side mixture screws. Turning the screws in will richen the cylinder and out will lean the cylinder.

Seat the bottom ones gently..when they want to stop turning in DO NOT force them further..start counting out from there. Forcing them will break the points off them and can possibly block the port. the side ones are blunt and not so susseptable to breakage. But still dont ham fist those either.
Click to expand...

Thank you..........
 
I've gotta see a vid of that badboy running!

I have everything to rebuild those.
Click to expand...
Have or anyone have a good source/link for rebuild kit for Mikuni RS 36mm carb ?

Sort of on/off topic... Thanks.
 
BurntKittyForge said:
I've gotta see a vid of that badboy running!


Have or anyone have a good source/link for rebuild kit for Mikuni RS 36mm carb ?

Sort of on/off topic... Thanks.
Click to expand...

Havent figured out how to post a vid......i have some on my phone
 
chuck hahn said:
Yes. The bottom pilot screw sets the fuel flow for idle and up to about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle and it helps transition to the main circuit as your laying into the throttle. You set it and forget it. All fine tuning is done with the side mixture screws. Turning the screws in will richen the cylinder and out will lean the cylinder.

Seat the bottom ones gently..when they want to stop turning in DO NOT force them further..start counting out from there. Forcing them will break the points off them and can possibly block the port. the side ones are blunt and not so susseptable to breakage. But still dont ham fist those either.
Click to expand...

Well, pulled carbs off to adjust bottom pilot screws and 3 of them tips are broke off in the carb.......any advice on extracting them and where to buy new ones????
 
Heres the tip removal tutorial. The intakes look ore the Kawasaki style than Suzuki parts. Go to orielleyr or Auto Zone and get a roll of the rubberized gasket material and cut gaskets for between the head and intakes. Its a grey roll and youll be able to tell its rubbery. Thats or source some Suzuki ones such as these from JBM.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/pilot_screw_removal.pdf

JBM part number......GS 1000 here.....

http://jbmindustries.com/RubberFlange.html

New fuel screws here.... may be other places but I dont know where.

http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=4245
 
Alright.....got the broken tips out, new screws put in. Engine idles good but goes to popping/studdering around 4k rpm. Rich or lean?
 
Lower the float hts to 1/2MM HIGHER than the stated ht in the manual. This will richen the carbs a tad. Wet test them off the bike to see the float hts arent too low and they drip from the overflows. Do this by clamping them in a vice or use some other method to have them setting level like they would be on the bike and hook a gravity bottle to the fuel line.

Install them and start the bike and put a hand on each carb when it starts popping and youll feel the carb(s) shudder. So turn the side mixture screw on whatever carb shudders out 1 /8 turn and see what it does. Turning the screw out will lean that cylinder and if it was rich and popping back it will settle down. If no resukts them go in small incirments to richen that cylinder and see what happens.

The ideal situation, seeing you should have VM carbs, is using a colortune to see the flame color as you adjust the mixture screws.
 
Well, got bigger problems than carbs. Definately have valve issues on #3 cylinder.
:(
 
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