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GS 1000 upper cranckase still serviceable?

J

John Kat

Forum Sage
I bought a spare upper crankcase for a GS 1000 project.
The crankcase looks OK except that there is some damage at the output shaft level.
It's apparently the place where the bearing half ring is located?
As I've never opened a GS 1000 crankcase I don't know if it's a problem or not?
I'm concerned by any potential oil leak here?
carterGS1000001_zps768d2b9d.jpg


carterGS1000002_zpsc549ca34.jpg
 
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I think the drive shaft seal fits just inboard of that groove. Might be okay, but you should trial fit the shaft w/seal to make sure none of those gouges undermine how the seal fits into the cases.
 
Nessism said:
I think the drive shaft seal fits just inboard of that groove. Might be okay, but you should trial fit the shaft w/seal to make sure none of those gouges undermine how the seal fits into the cases.
Click to expand...
I bet the PO got the seal out without disassembling the crankcase halves...
 
Hello, did you say you bought only the top half of the crankcase? I would think these are machined as pairs, the cases would be assembled and line bored for the crank and tranny bores to be round, I don't think they are meant to be mixed.
Similar to how the cylinder heads are paired to the cam caps.

Mark
 
Starion007 said:
Hello, did you say you bought only the top half of the crankcase? I would think these are machined as pairs, the cases would be assembled and line bored for the crank and tranny bores to be round, I don't think they are meant to be mixed.
Similar to how the cylinder heads are paired to the cam caps.

Mark
Click to expand...
I knew that was the case for the cam caps but was unaware about the crankcase halves:confused:
On the other hand, the machining is so precise that I was able to replace a defective cam cap with one from another engine without any problem.
Of course, I had measured the clearances with plastigage before starting the engine.
Given that no shaft runs directly on the crankcase surface, I believe I could get away with mixing top and bottom halves.
Future will tell:)
 
the crankcases are made in two halves. the mating surfaces are machined seperately, then the cases are bolted together and the boring for the crank and gearboxes is done.
same as the cam caps for the camshafts. so technically they are not a matching pair.
as John says, the machining tolerances are so accurate you can easily swap crankcase halves or cam caps with no problems
 
Agemax said:
the crankcases are made in two halves. the mating surfaces are machined seperately, then the cases are bolted together and the boring for the crank and gearboxes is done.
same as the cam caps for the camshafts. so technically they are not a matching pair.
as John says, the machining tolerances are so accurate you can easily swap crankcase halves or cam caps with no problems
Click to expand...

If they line bore the parts together they ARE a matching pair after the machining work is done.

Most likely you will be fine since the case halves are just clamping down on roller bearings, but not an ideal situation.
 
Nessism said:
If they line bore the parts together they ARE a matching pair after the machining work is done.

Most likely you will be fine since the case halves are just clamping down on roller bearings, but not an ideal situation.
Click to expand...

but they are all identical, therefore interchangeable.
 
I'm certainly no expert, but if suzuki sold replacement crankcases individually, wouldn't they be interchangeable?
 
So, after derailing your thread, sorry about that.
I was looking at the pictures and figured if it was me I would use a dremel too with a disc on it and try to clean out or re-cut that grove. It's a retainer disc for the seal and when you install the seal I would put a thin coating of silicone around it. There is not really much oil pressure there so it should be ok.

Mark
 
Starion007 said:
So, after derailing your thread, sorry about that.
I was looking at the pictures and figured if it was me I would use a dremel too with a disc on it and try to clean out or re-cut that grove. It's a retainer disc for the seal and when you install the seal I would put a thin coating of silicone around it. There is not really much oil pressure there so it should be ok.

Mark
Click to expand...
I agree, I will do that:)
The other option would be to reload the damaged portion and then re-cut the grove?
I have no idea how much that would cost?
 
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