GS 450 clutch adjustment issues

[DLP]

So I'm checking the other threads but still thought I would start something more on general tips/troubleshooting for adjusting the clutch on my 1980 GS450.

I having problems from not finding neutral to trouble shifting completely (as in, when running I simply CAN'T).

Are there some common mistakes that a newb would be making when trying to adjust the clutch? The bike needed it from the handle, cable adjuster at the base of clutch, and the screw inside the housing itself.

Why cant I find the "sweet spot" on this thing?

Not trying to be redundant with another clutch post, but seemed to need more general advice.

 

[koolaid_kid]

On that type of shift mechanism, there are 3 places you need to pay attention to (other than the physical clutch itself):
1) The clutch rod, which goes into the case and across the transmission to the other side, needs to be straight and true. Part of it hangs out in the open behind your sprocket cover. It can be bent by something caught in the chain, including the chain itself.
2) The clutch cable. It needs to be lubricated periodically, and attention paid to the barrel that fits into the clutch lever. If the strands start breaking loose, bad things will happen, ending up with a broken cable. And it needs to be routed correctly and not bound up or bent at too sharp an angle. It should loop, not bend.
3) The worm mechanism behind the sprocket cover. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned and regreased periodically. This is probably the most ignored and most important part of the mechanism. It acts somewhat like a differential in a car; it turns the up and down motion of the cable into a left and right motion of the clutch rod.
If all 3 of these parts are maintained properly, you should be able to adjust your clutch correctly. Other than the clutch itself, which is a whole other story.

 

[DLP]

I've "done" those things but can't seem to get it adjusted correctly. Are there certain mistakes people might be making when attempting the whole process you described?

 

[Guest]

If you're following the Clymer or Haynes for adjustment, they can be misleading.

Ed (Nessism) clued me in a while ago to the correct method for our 450's:

Step 1) Turn in the cable adjusters at both the handle bar lever and where the cable goes into the case. You want maximum cable free play at the lever.

Step 2) Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster.

Step 3) Turn in adjuster until you JUST START TO FEEL resistance then back the adjuster off 1/4 turn and tighten locknut.

Step 4) Check feel at the lever. There should be some free play at the lever, but not a whole lot. If you don't know what free play is please ask.

Step 5) If necessary, tighten the cable further until you have a small amount of cable free play with the lever released, but not much. You must have lever free play or the clutch will slip.