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GS 550 Ignition fuse blows at key-on

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chris15379
  • Start date Start date
Im going to get back out there today and see if I see anything different. The plug on the end of the wires (in the headlight bucket) coming from the kill switch is clean not damaged its a 3 wire plug and its the middle wire (color is solid orange) thats getting hot only when the switch is plugged into the harness and the switch is in the "on" position.
 
Chris15379 said:
Im going to get back out there today and see if I see anything different. The plug on the end of the wires (in the headlight bucket) coming from the kill switch is clean not damaged its a 3 wire plug and its the middle wire (color is solid orange) thats getting hot only when the switch is plugged into the harness and the switch is in the "on" position.
Click to expand...


Solid Orange is the output of your ignition switch that comes back to power the fuse box. Everything that is distributed out through the fuse box comes through this Orange wire. If the IGN fuse is blowing then it is from current coming through Orange. No surprise, you have a heavy short.

You need to chase downstream and check the Orange/White wire since you say you are blowing IGN fuses. Remember O/W goes to teh kill switch, coils and ignition. Since you have points leave that ignitor off.
 
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If it's the solid orange wire that gets hot, and not the orange/white wire, then it may very well be an internal short in the switch assembly. Try to remove the switch assembly from the handlebars (two screws) and let it float without touching anything metal. If the fuse stops blowing, then it's an internal short.
 
Well I decided to check continuity to ground at the orange wire. I disconnected the kill switch, found the orange wire had power, on the kill switch end the orange wire had continuity to ground. So I bypassed the switch and crimped the orange/white wire with the orange wire. Manually triggered the starter solenoid and the bike starts right up and runs smoothly. I was going to just ad a push button start switch on it, but maybe ill just put an oem switch on it if they aren't too pricey

Thanks for the help guys
 
Simplest explanation is usually that someone crimped the wire up at the kill switch when they fitted the hand control to the bar... :)
 
On this bike, the switch assembly is also part of the twist throttle (cables come out right below the switches) If i pull the 2 screws out of the bottom of the switch housing am I going to have springs or anything else to worry about coming apart with it? or is all the spring tension down on the carbs and not on the handlebar?
 
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No issues with things popping out at your. In reality you only need to replace the top half. The bottom half with the throttle cables can remain intact.
 
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