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GS 750 es : Let s bring it back to life!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Etcheberri
  • Start date Start date
P1030577.jpg

By the way guys, what is that weird brown varnish in my tank.
the metal seems clean underneath it, how do i clean that? do i treat it as rust?
 
Okay,
so the thing in my tank is old gaz varnish, i think, so i ll take care of that with some lacquer thinner.

Tonight i removed the Carbs. not much but i am sick, got the flu, great.
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P1030639.jpg


Forgot to drain the fuel... ahah got everything on me, yummy!


they dont look that bad
P1030640.jpg

P1030645.jpg

but i am going to check the parts bike to compare an select which one i want to use.

tomorrow i ll clean these.
simplegreen first, for the grease.
then some carb cleaner.

i ll see what i can do for the exterior,
i hate that chunky spray-paint color on the covers, so i am going to sand them down.
or do i use a paint stripper?
and paint them later on. (i need a small oven of some sort...mhhhh)

oh and buy some Hex bolts and new gaskets, if needed, we will see.




I kept going on with the harness removal/annotation process,
and well...

is THAT normal? i mean... why 2 of the wires coming out of the R/R are duct-taped like that? and not connected to anything? i ll check in my service manual, but i ve got too much fever to do something with my brain tonight.
P1030647.jpg

P1030648.jpg


more tomorrow!
 
okay! here s some updates.

Bought some lil things to work on the project.
here s a part of it.
P1030654-1.jpg


decided to clean parts as i go, then put them in respective bags to not lose anything.
P1030660.jpg

P1030670.jpg


3 screws are toasted, hum, should have waited a bit more maybe, anyway i ll drill them out.
P1030663.jpg

i really will buy a full hex kit for carbs (suggestion about your best place to buy them are welcome!)

here s what my floaters look like
P1030673.jpg

the gasket is kinda still softy.
P1030681.jpg

i ll replace it anyway!

after some elbow grease
P1030687.jpg

a bit more
P1030684.jpg


jets and old gasket.
P1030688.jpg
 
Those top caps are plastic! Don't use carb cleaner or paint stripper! You'll most likely damage them. Clean them real well with soap and water, maybe simple green, then use a little armor all, theyll shine right up.
 
thank you curly!

they have been simplegreened, easy to clean indeed!

worked on the foot rest part (what it s name exactly please? i don t know it in english)
simple green, wd40, sand paper. i like it.
will re-paint the black part soon enough!
P1030689.jpg

P1030690.jpg


Used a tool on my drill to remove the stripped screws. got them out! YEAH!
P1030692.jpg


i cleaned the chain guard thoroughly, man there was a LOT of crap under there! took a lot of time to remove.
sanded it down, then painted it with some Black bumper paint, wanted a solid finish for that piece.
(except on body parts i hate glossy finish. i plan to paint the whole engine in flat (or very low gloss) black, with red details)
P1030699.jpg

P1030697.jpg


the mess, so far. keep trying to keep it clean as i go... lol yeah sure!
P1030700.jpg

and the es. so far, so good.
P1030701.jpg
 
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Nice work so far! Make sure you change all the o-rings and such in the carbs. They cleaned up nice, what did you use? I soaked mine in pine sol for 2 days which worked alright.
 
Nice work so far! Make sure you change all the o-rings and such in the carbs. They cleaned up nice, what did you use? I soaked mine in pine sol for 2 days which worked alright.

i will order gaskets and o-rings this week.
to clean i used :
simple-green + green sponge
soapy hot water + toothbrush
WD40, let sit.
Soapy water.
Repeat sequence until clean enough.

Evaporust for smal rusted parts if necessary.

i don t have the patience to let them sit in something for 2 days hehe.


@SVSooke
Thanks! i ll order to this guy this week!
did you change the cover and bottom screws too on your yeller?
i don t remember.
 
uhoh... just spotted this on my #2 carb.
is it bad? do i have to replace it?
i have an other carb set on the other bike, i ll take that one if so.
P1030707.jpg
 
hampshirehog suggested i use some solder.
i did and i think it worked.

cool
 
my brother quickly did me this while i was cleaning my carbs, nice, simple and effective.
P1030711.jpg


Carbs are done, i mean cleaned, now they will sit there and wait for Bolts and gaskets to arrive.
P1030713.jpg

yes... could have done better on the last one, but was tired of cleaning carbs! interior is mint though!


took care of these.
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couldn't get the plastic to stop beein faded, so i painted them with the color i used on the chain guard.

tested my R/R... i think it s dead, i am going to post it in the proper section of this forum
EDIT : well i think this part defers from what i see in the service manual, is it stock?
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that will be all for this week end.
 
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Great start anyways, what kind of time frame are you planning on to have her finished?
 
Do you still have those handguards?
How do they attach?
They would be nice to put on in cold weather, when you are freezing, I wouldnt care if they look fugly.
How much do you want for them?
BTW: good score on those bikes, sounds like fun. Before you go to fire up the engine, change the oil, drop the oil pan and clean it out, tons of crud gets trapped in there and its not good for it to go through your oil pump.
 
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Don't think that's stock, stock has a plug. I'd wire it back in (properly) and test the entire charging system following the stator pages. That will tell you whats toast.
 
@gearhead13.

i still have them.
i don t have better pictures but these have been severly hacked to be attached on the bike. what i mean is tie-wraps and cuts to fit (badly) the break oil box thingy.
if you want i ll take other pictures of these.
i don t want anything for them if in the ends you still want em, just the canada posting fees.

About the engine oil and all, do not worry i will open and clean everything before even thinking off trying to start this up. down to the naked frame.

@Curly.
Yeah, i think you re right, i ll wait until later to try to find issues in the charging system. as it for now the bike will not even see a battery before a long time!
 
@gearhead13.

i still have them.
i don t have better pictures but these have been severly hacked to be attached on the bike. what i mean is tie-wraps and cuts to fit (badly) the break oil box thingy.
if you want i ll take other pictures of these.
i don t want anything for them if in the ends you still want em, just the canada posting fees.
I was wondering if they were made for a snowmobile or something, i have never seen ones like that on a streetbike.
They would be perfect at like 5C and 110km/h on the highway, Brrrr. Its usually my hands that get numb first.
 
I want to get caught up on this one.... Subscribed!

hehe,
hey i like your thread, i wanted to know something,
what did you use to remove the exhaust bolts on the engine? did you heat them up?

i am kinda afraid so far to remove that part, but that s what is coming next! :)
 
Great start anyways, what kind of time frame are you planning on to have her finished?

i have no idea!
and actually i have all the time in the world! my motorcycle driving lessons start next season! yup i don t have my licence yet :o , so i have plenty of time before being able to drive this baby. :)

this makes this project even more interesting for me, if i managed to fix it good, this will be my first road bike ever.
(i know 750 is a bit much for a first one, but first i need a big displacement to get the licence that will allow me to drive any motorcycle i want, and second i am not a small dude anyway)
 
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hehe,
hey i like your thread, i wanted to know something,
what did you use to remove the exhaust bolts on the engine? did you heat them up?

i am kinda afraid so far to remove that part, but that s what is coming next! :)

Thanks!
For the exhaust bolts (and others) I followed what SVSooke already said, days of spraying with rust pentrant and then using a hammer and punch hit each bolthead good and solid, square on the center. This helps break the oxidation in the threads. Then slow and easy out with a six point socket. If you feel it start to bind when removing spray it down and turn it back in, then it should come right out.
On another note, he is right WD-40 is not a rust pentrant, and I didn't see any in your pic of fluids.

Kroil is great but expensive...

kroil_logo2.jpg


PB Blaster is what my choice is, always worked well fpr me...

pbblaster.jpg


There are others out there and you may find different choices being a Canook than us Yanks have. But the home brew of auto-trans fluid and acetone mixed 50/50 works WONDERS! I always have some of those two in my chemical stash to mix if needed.
 
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