GS1000 Base Gasket Replace. w/ Pics

[Nessism]

I see no reason to grease the base gasket. Greasing is an okay idea when you are going to be back into that area of the engine in the near future (such as the valve cover), but I'd much rather use a light glazing of flexible sealer on something like a base gasket vs. grease since you are not likely to ever visit that gasket again.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

I see no reason to grease the base gasket. Greasing is an okay idea when you are going to be back into that area of the engine in the near future (such as the valve cover), but I'd much rather use a light glazing of flexible sealer on something like a base gasket vs. grease since you are not likely to ever visit that gasket again.

What type of flexible sealer would you suggest. Can you give me a brand name so I can look it up on the web and get something similar here in Oz. Is it a silicon base like Silastic or a Hylomar type product. I am doing the same job on the base gasket in the next couple of weeks. My head is away at the machine shop having the seats done and repairs done to the camshaft retainer bolt holes.

 

[waterman]

Only reason I oiled my base was that in order to slide pistons back into cylinder bores, I slopped excess oil all over gasket. Was going to install dry but got oiled in process. Keep this in mind since you will need to lubricate rings to install.

 

[Nessism]

What type of flexible sealer would you suggest. Can you give me a brand name so I can look it up on the web and get something similar here in Oz. Is it a silicon base like Silastic or a Hylomar type product. I am doing the same job on the base gasket in the next couple of weeks. My head is away at the machine shop having the seats done and repairs done to the camshaft retainer bolt holes.

Hey Don,

The factory manual does not specify using sealer on the gasket so I think you can safely go dry. If you want an extra measure of assurance some Three Bond flexible sealer would be a good choice - Three Bond makes most of the "Yamabond", "Hondabond" and "Suzuki Bond" products. Not sure which version is best for usage with gaskets so you may have to do a little research.

Edit: I think this is the stuff (sold under various names as mentioned before) http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=178

Good luck.

 

[Guest]

What type of flexible sealer would you suggest.

unless you are very experienced it may take you a while to slide all the pistons/rings into the cylinders. flexible sealer might go off (dry) by the time you're done and it may get in the way of your hands too (that you'll already have oil on) and make a mess in the process
so, i'd either grease it (with a view of an easier removal somewhere down the line) or would leave it dry

 

[Roostabunny]

Hey Billyboy,

I'll add my thanks for the pics. My base gasket will need replaced at some point this year, and seeing your pics moved it over from the "Praying that it doesn't fail" list to the "Planning the Job" list. Much less intimidating for this newb once I've seen it done!

Add in the tips from the other fellas, and this thread's comin' back out right alongside the manual when the time comes.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Hey Billyboy,

I'll add my thanks for the pics. My base gasket will need replaced at some point this year, and seeing your pics moved it over from the "Praying that it doesn't fail" list to the "Planning the Job" list. Much less intimidating for this newb once I've seen it done!

Add in the tips from the other fellas, and this thread's comin' back out right alongside the manual when the time comes.

I'll 2nd that.

 

[Billyboy]

Hey Billyboy,

I'll add my thanks for the pics. My base gasket will need replaced at some point this year, and seeing your pics moved it over from the "Praying that it doesn't fail" list to the "Planning the Job" list. Much less intimidating for this newb once I've seen it done!

Add in the tips from the other fellas, and this thread's comin' back out right alongside the manual when the time comes.

I'll 2nd that.

Thanks guys.:-D I hope that this thread will be a helpful tool to save us GS'ers some money and frustration and fear.

I really appreciate all the helpful post from everyone. \\/

Plans fail for lack of council, but with many advisors they succeed.

 

[80GS1000]

Forgive my ignorance here, but how do you determine where TDC is? Do you rotate the crank till you see the T show up in that little hole in the ignition plate?

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Forgive my ignorance here, but how do you determine where TDC is? Do you rotate the crank till you see the T show up in that little hole in the ignition plate?

Yes. But there are two "T" marks. One for 1.4 and one for 2.3 cylinders.

 

[paintmann111]

Its the line next to the "T" in the ignition hole, you line up the lines I do believe.

 

[Billyboy]

Yeah, There's two T's. One for 1-4 and one for 2-3. The lines should've been lined up. Don and Paintman are right.
There's also an "F", but I don't know what that's for. Anyone?

I just came back from Canadian tire and bought a cheapy torque wrench and a brass brush for the combustion chambers. (They're in the battery section.)

I talked with the PO this morning. He said that he overhauled the top end when he got the bike. Valves lapped, seals and rings replaced, maybe even pistons, he can't remember. So that's a load off.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Yeah, There's two T's. One for 1-4 and one for 2-3. The lines should've been lined up. Don and Paintman are right.
There's also an "F", but I don't know what that's for. Anyone?

I just came back from Canadian tire and bought a cheapy torque wrench and a brass brush for the combustion chambers. (They're in the battery section.)

I talked with the PO this morning. He said that he overhauled the top end when he got the bike. Valves lapped, seals and rings replaced, maybe even pistons, he can't remember. So that's a load off.

Billyboy the "F" mark is the firing position for setting the ignition timing as opposed to the "T" mark which is at Top Dead Cente. I think from memory the initial ignition timing is 17 degrees before TDC below 1500 rpm and 37 degrees before TDC above 2500 rpm.
Cheers
Don

 

[Jackbob]

Whatever you do - don't overtighten the cam saddle retaining bolts - they can snap off and become a headache to remove. I know.
I recently replaced piston rings and did not need a ring compressor, just fingers and a flat screw driver - in fact my old Haynes manual even said its not needed. Make sure the barrell is the correct way around first.
Generally with "paper" gaskets - apply dry - they can extrude in some cases and not seal properly at the gasket/mating interface. (a gasket material saleman told me this). For high temp applications, gaskets are often graphited etc.:-|

 

[Billyboy]

Whatever you do - don't overtighten the cam saddle retaining bolts - they can snap off and become a headache to remove. I know.
I recently replaced piston rings and did not need a ring compressor, just fingers and a flat screw driver - in fact my old Haynes manual even said its not needed. Make sure the barrell is the correct way around first.
Generally with "paper" gaskets - apply dry - they can extrude in some cases and not seal properly at the gasket/mating interface. (a gasket material saleman told me this). For high temp applications, gaskets are often graphited etc.:-|

Thanks for the tips.

What is the barrel?

 

[Guest]

What is the barrel?

a cylinder

(the same way the fuel tap is the petcock... )

 

[Billyboy]

a cylinder

(the same way the fuel tap is the petcock... )

Ah. OK.

So then, was that a warning to ensure that the block isn't backwards???

 

[Suzuki_Don]

a cylinder

(the same way the fuel tap is the petcock... )

Hey PSYGUY you know these Yanks talk a different language to us in the Southern Hemisphere.

 

[Guest]

Hey PSYGUY you know these Yanks talk a different language to us in the Southern Hemisphere.

sure do, mate :shock:

 

[Billyboy]

Hey PSYGUY you know these Yanks talk a different language to us in the Southern Hemisphere.

*AHEM*!!

Hi there. I'm Canadian.:-D