GS1000 clutch basket endfloat

[GregT]

Struck an odd one today. I've been working on a GS1000S which was very noisy in the clutch area.

Having done all the usual things - camchain tensioner, clutch basket cush springs - it was a heap quieter.
But the lack of noise made another one apparent - as it often does.

At idle, there was a knocking from the clutch area again - which went away when revved or loaded.
So off with the cover and out with the clutch after doing some measuring. I set up a DTI onto the outer fingers of the basket to see what the endfloat was.
Measured at .012in. When the clutch center spacer was measured against the basket bearing housing the difference was .007in.
The balance would be accounted for by the needle bearing clearances - it's possible to rock the basket even when everything's new.

So I shortened the spacer which the needle rollers run on - and which dictates how much clearance there is.
.005in off the plain - non grooved - end saw clearance come down to "just noticeable" when assembled.

It's very much better now. Carbide lathe tips are very useful.

I'm aware of several Honda models which suffer from clutch basket wear leading to machining and shimming them. I've not struck this on a GS before.
I don't know if the endfloat is specified in any manuals either. It's not something you can easily adjust.

 

[uk gs nut]

I did the exact same thing to my GS1000N, it definitely helps quiet things down. Mine is at 90k miles so still a little transmission rumble at idle in neutral.

 

[GregT]

I did the exact same thing to my GS1000N, it definitely helps quiet things down. Mine is at 90k miles so still a little transmission rumble at idle in neutral.

Getting rid of that last noise to take the audible noise down to original delivery day levels is the hard bit...
I suspect that it would involve replacing the bearing behind the clutch - and the ballrace on the crank which takes the sideload from the helical primaries.
When the crank bearing wears - as it does - it lets the crank wander a little at idle which makes a bit of noise.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

I believe the clearance is .001-.003 for 1100's and 1150's I have had to cut the center race also as you did. As far as shimming which I have done also. You can get them from Suzuki listed for 1150's in various sizes. Now not sure if this will apply to your 1000. So just food for thought..

 

[GregT]

I believe the clearance is .001-.003 for 1100's and 1150's I have had to cut the center race also as you did. As far as shimming which I have done also. You can get them from Suzuki listed for 1150's in various sizes. Now not sure if this will apply to your 1000. So just food for thought..

Thank you for that. Does the shim go over the outside diameter of the spacer to take up basket wear ?

To be able to use a shim of enough thickness to survive, I'd think the basket would need machining.

 

[TeamDar]

Thank you for that. Does the shim go over the outside diameter of the spacer to take up basket wear ?

To be able to use a shim of enough thickness to survive, I'd think the basket would need machining.

The clutch hub bearing spacer for the GS1150 is thinner which necessitates using the shims to get the proper clearance.

 

[GregT]

The clutch hub bearing spacer for the GS1150 is thinner which necessitates using the shims to get the proper clearance.

Thanks. i haven't had an 1150 apart for some time so memory was hazy on those.
There seems to be a fair amount of compatibility in the 2v engines. I'd parted out a 650G some time back and the spacer, washers and needle roller bearing are all the same as the 1000.

 

[Guest]

Out of interest, did the clutch hub machine easily on the lathe? I had a friend try to take some off mine using his lathe and then the mill, but the material is so hard the machine just skips (carbide bits too). I will now take it to someone with a surface grinder.

 

[GregT]

Out of interest, did the clutch hub machine easily on the lathe? I had a friend try to take some off mine using his lathe and then the mill, but the material is so hard the machine just skips (carbide bits too). I will now take it to someone with a surface grinder.

Yes, machined easily using carbide tip. Fairly slow cutting speed though. I machined the end without the clearance grooves for the oil pump drive, this end may not be hardened.
It's possible the other end is.

 

[Guest]

Wow, we were trying the other end too. Maybe the speed was too fast? Oh well, I'll drop it off for grinding tomorrow.

 

[Guest]

Dropped into Paul Gilbert's Head Service and asked if he could run it on the grinder he does shims on (he's done my 550 shims before). He took it away for a few minutes, brought it back and it looked absolutely perfect! So I asked him to take it down from 28.05mm to 27.6mm (I originally had around 0.020" end float). Got it home that night and proceeded to fit it. Clutch centre wouldn't turn easily! Doh!!!
I was going to wait until I could get another hub, but then decided to try rubbing the clutch basket round and round on wet & dry on a flat steel surface. It's the thin band which drives the gear behind the clutch (oil pump drive). After several checks with a vernier, I tried it again. Perfect. Buttoned it all up and went for a ride. Another job done, and now the freeplay in the clutch cable stays the same hot or cold.