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GS1000. On my own this time

  • Thread starter Thread starter RobertGS
  • Start date Start date
Thanks Richard, good videos.

So the new petcock, thankfully, seems fine. Lots of good fuel flow out of the fuel port when I apply suction to the vacuum port but zero fuel going into the vacuum line. No fuel at all when I apply suction to the fuel outlet port. Tonnes of great flow on prime.

So with that hopefully eliminated as a possibility it's on the carbs. While I'm at learning a lot more about rebuilding the carbs, I'm going to re-clean the inside of the gas tank and look at a por15 liner (yes I will follow the instructions very carefully). It had an old liner in it and I worked pretty hard to clean it out with acetone and drywall screws and lots of shaking.... But last time I put gas in it I saw some small bits of the old liner... So don't want nice clean carbs and more gunk to get in there. (ps, I had fuel line filter, which seems perfectly clear, but I'm assuming that's not a sure sign small bits didn't make it to the carbs.
I'm assuming from what I read I can bench sync the carbs to get them in the ballpark. Anyway, much more to come in my upcoming carb adventure. They've supposedly been cleaned and rebuilt by a mechanic recently, but as noted below, I think it's time I saw for myself and learned how to do it. Let's see what he did.

I'll get pictures started soon as I can..
 
RobertGS1000 said:
I'm assuming from what I read I can bench sync the carbs to get them in the ballpark.
Click to expand...

You can get them close enough to start the engine. If everything is in great shape, compression the same on all cylinders etc, it may run OK. Usually not so good, never perfect. Some of them run terribly until they are vacuum synched, even with good tight engines. What the vacuum synching does is adjust the carbs for any imperfections in the engine, make all of the cyinders do the same amount of the work, no matter the condition of the engine. It's not an optional procedure. It's not hard either.
 
Well it'll be a while till I get to that point so maybe by then I'll know if someone's nearby.

Thought I'd add a picture of the bike and carbs at this point. I'll do it separately until I learn how to post multiple. Just haven't gotten to that yet.
 
RobertGS1000 said:
Well it'll be a while till I get to that point so maybe by then I'll know if someone's nearby.

Thought I'd add a picture of the bike and carbs at this point. I'll do it separately until I learn how to post multiple. Just haven't gotten to that yet.
Click to expand...

take 5 minutes, set up a photobucket account, activate it, and load your pictures into a file there. Then, copy and paste them into your post

Naturally, there's a how to on BassCliff's site
 
You can also upload them straight to imgur.com with no account and link right to them like this:

yw87PO4.jpg
 
Great thanks for the photo help. I’ve been having fun taking apart carbs for the first time. There is a bit of gunk, mostly on the pilot few screws…. Sort of greyish goop. Otherwise by site pretty clean but I realize the full dip and blow is required anyway.

I’ve been mulling the float heights. As noted the carbs were dripping very slightly after running. I see in Paul Musser’s VM Carb Rebuild notes that “aftermarket float needle valve spring tension on the jet needles can be weak allowing gas level to be high. Well "the mechanic" did replace these recently. So I’m wondering if I should adjust the float levels to the end of the spec range that will lower the level a bit. In my manual the float height range is 23mm to 25mm. They seem to be roughly 24 so I’m thinking adjust them to 25.
J4dfEHCl.jpg


Re the intake boots I've ordered new o-rings from Robert Barr. The boots themselves don't seem to have cracks where the carbs go in. A bit of deterioration of the rubber at the fasteners.. some of which as you can see are not looking good so I'll replace. I'm thinking stick with the boots, they seem pliable and as I say, don't see any issues by site...
uJxqdnfl.jpg

f86QAJyl.jpg
 
Last edited:
You need to check you settings on the photo page, they're sized waaay too big

Start putting some penetrating oil on those boot screws, I'll be surprised if they all come out easily
 
Will do re the photos.

Got lucky on the intake boot screws. All out no problem....maybe that means they were under-torqued. I was surprised the ones with the striped heads came out.
 
Here's what I get for valve clearances
Intakes
1 less than .051mm
2 less than .051 mm
3 less than .051 mm
4 less than .051 mm

Exhaust
1 less than .051
2 .076
3 .051 (snug)
4 .051

So up a size on all the intakes and number 1 exhaust? Would you try and nudge up 3 and 4 exhaust with oversize shims or even go up a size?

Also I hear about a forum or something on here that helps with shims...can someone point me?
 
0.051mm is right in the middle of the allowable range of 0.03-0.08 mm. Is that what you're actually measuring, or is that just your smallest feeler?

If that's what they actually measure, then you're good to go. No replacements needed!

If that's your smallest feeler, grab some good metric ones. You're unlikely to find them locally if you're in the U.S. I have these, so if you're in the U.S. as well, they shouldn't take long to arrive. At $4 shipped, you might want to get two or three: http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Blades-S...624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4854b80608
 
eil said:
0.051mm is right in the middle of the allowable range of 0.03-0.08 mm. Is that what you're actually measuring, or is that just your smallest feeler?

If that's what they actually measure, then you're good to go. No replacements needed!

If that's your smallest feeler, grab some good metric ones. You're unlikely to find them locally if you're in the U.S. I have these, so if you're in the U.S. as well, they shouldn't take long to arrive. At $4 shipped, you might want to get two or three: http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Blades-S...624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4854b80608
Click to expand...

If they are less than .051mm, go one shim size thinner.
Some of them are probably a lot less than .051.
 
RobertGS1000 said:
So up a size on all the intakes and number 1 exhaust?
Click to expand...
Just for clarification: Make sure you go down in size on the shims and not up. You need to go thinner. Not thicker.

Also I hear about a forum or something on here that helps with shims...can someone point me?
Click to expand...

It's called the shim club and member Ghostgs1 is in charge. PM him and he can give you all the info.
 
Yah sorry I meant down a size on the shims, up on the gap. My bad. Going to try the zip tie method to get them out. I'll see what sizes are in there and write it all down.
 
Those orings may "look good" but they have been setting compressed and the seals are now broken...simply out, they need to be replaced.
 
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