GS1000. On my own this time

[RobertGS]

So here's what I found, a couple of pictures into exhaust port 1 and 4

Scratched around in there pretty good no gaskets that I can see.

The exhaust...stock yes?

The depth of all four ports is just about 21 mm which is about what the depth of the exhaust end is

I measure the gasket at 5mm thick so not seeing how it would fit.

Any thoughts appreciated. In the meantime I'll put some oil in her.
And finish a couple of other things.

 

[Nessism]

Yup, exhaust gaskets missing.

 

[Nessism]

To get the pipes seated in the head it's best to have the entire exhaust loose, particularly at the muffler mounting points. Tighten everything up after the pipes are seated.

 

[tkent02]

Put new gaskets in and it should be fine. You're using studs, not bolts, right?

 

[RobertGS]

If I install the 5mm thick gaskets in there, then there will be a 5mm gap when I try to bolt on the final connectors. I've tried it. Can't be right.

Gotta be something I"m missing.

The gaskets push the exhaust out 5mm and the final red pressure connectors sit out 5mm...

 

[steve murdoch]

Robert, what are the "final red pressure connectors"?

 

[chuck hahn]

It may be 21 MM like the end of the pipe is..but the end of the pipe isnt gonna set flush to the head when you stick it up there. It has to be back a ways so you can tighten the bolts and draw the ends in so they can squish into the gaskets. Out in the gaskets and mount up the flanges and be done with it.

And a wrap of Scotch tape around the half moon retainers for the two pipes works a charm to hold them till they are inserted into the head.

 

[Nessism]

I helped the guy that bought my first S install a NOS exhaust system he bought and we had a dickens of a time getting the head pipes all the way in. Best method we found was to first install the mufflers, then insert the outer two header pipes after the center two were tight. You need to keep the interconnection joints between the two sides loose. Slide the pipes too far together, or not far enough, and the header pipes won't fit into the engine. We really had to fuss around before the head pipes would fit down into the exhaust ports. After you get everything lined up and snugged down, install the outer down pipes. They are stamped R and L so make sure you have the sides properly oriented.

Good luck and hope this helps.

 

[RobertGS]

Thanks for being patient with me on this. Installed number 4, torqued it down as much as I dared (borrowed an inch pound wrench but it doesn't seem to work). Table says 6.5-10pounds for these and I think I got it in the ballpark.

Don't know if you can see but the pipe's still pretty far from flush with the head. When I took it out the gasket was squished to 4mm or so... do these get squished almost flat?

Other question is bolt length. I haven't switched to posts..(looking for threads on that now). I replaced the old bolts with the same length but now wonder if the old ones were right. They are M8x30 and the parts fische seems to say M8x35. With the 30's I worry I'm not getting enough thread to torque it down.

Seen enough posts here on stripped threads and broken bolts that I don't want to rush and do something I'll regret.

 

[RobertGS]

I just ordered studs and brass nuts, plus a new set of gaskets. The ones I have are athena..rather just get the susuki part.

Then I'll see how it goes. I'll feel a lot safer torquing them down then.

In the meantime I'll put in the new set of progressive springs for the front forks. Plus I have a broken bolt to extract in the grab handle for the seat.

 

[RobertGS]

OEM parts make me happy.
The Susuki exhaust gaskets fit into the head without falling out. Also the posts have been installed and I'm using brass nuts ( the small silver post is to replace a striped post in the oil filter cover). So exhaust in with it seems no leaks.

New throttle return cable installed.

I started her up and have balanced the carbs. They actually seemed pretty darn close so didn't have to do much adjusting.

Newly sealed gas tank is now installed and I've taken her for about a 20K ride.

Seems to run WAY better. Seems like pretty good power throughout the pull.

But I now have an Idle/Pilot issue. I"ve done the following
- carbs dipped and cleaned, new o-rings from Mr. Barr
- New intake boot o-rings.
- Care taken with all clamps on intake and exhaust side and at air box
- ignition timing / points checked
- valve clearances adjusted

Symptoms are that it wont hold an idle at anywhere near 1000rpms, will just die. And there is a bit of what I assume folks are calling "hunting". The rpms go up and down a bit .

Both air and fuel screws are 1 and a quarter turns out.

Any ideas appreciated. I've read about adjusting the idle. Should I do that next? I think that involves adjusting the air screw for highest idle in say #1 carb and then reducing to 1000 with the idle adjust knob. Then move to #2 carb and repeat for all 4?

Is 1 and 1/4 out for the fuel screws about right?

 

[Big T]

No,

Fuel about 3/4 -7/8

Air at 1 1/2

idle at 1,100 - 1,200

 

[Flyboy]

Start with adjusting the idle stop screw so it will maintain around 1000rpm idle, then set the mixture screws using the highest idle method, you will find that you have to back the idle stop screw off as you get them dialed in and the idle starts running away.
Nice work, keep it up, following with interest. :clap:

 

[RobertGS]

Thanks very much. I'll put those fuel screws in to 3/4 to 7/8 and air to about 1 and 1/2. And then try highest idle.

All plugs seem pretty sooty at the 1 and 1/4 turns out fuel setting which I'm assuming is because the mixture is too rich?

Anyway I'll report back. Hoping for tan plugs. And a smoother idle. It holds pretty well at 1200 or 1300. But still catches a bit from time to time and threatens to drop down and stall. Not often, but I'm not happy with it.

 

[RobertGS]

Hi all,

I decided to switch out the valve stem seals because the smoking on startup is just getting worse and to the point I need it fixed. I'm using john82q's method of removing the seals without removing the head. That seems to be going well.. awaiting seals but have removed a couple of the seals to see how hard it would be. Here's a quick couple pictures of the setup but I really have another more important question at the moment.

While doing this I notice scoring under cam caps. There is some on all four of the inner most journals, exhaust and intake. Most severe is under intake cap C closes to the cam chain. Here is a shot of the head, the cam (which shows material eaten away on about half the journal) and the cap.
sigh.
What does everyone think? The others with some scoring are much better than this. And the outer journals on 1 and 4 intake and exhaust look good.

 

[chuck hahn]

Journals and cam ends dont look good..she has been oil starved at some point. If it were me there would be some new parts going in..head and cams. Its a gamble to see how long these will last in my opinion.

 

[GSX1000E]

Journals and cam ends dont look good..she has been oil starved at some point. If it were me there would be some new parts going in..head and cams. Its a gamble to see how long these will last in my opinion.

Ouch! How much metal has been floating around in the oil and for how long? I agree with Chuck and would find a better used head/cams AFTER cleaning out the entire engine a few times.

 

[Guest]

EGADS Luckily I haven't had that experience yet pulling an engine apart. I sent you a PM about parts if you need them at some point. Sure like the way you're pulling seals though, I've been tempted to try that but I always just pull the head.

 

[RobertGS]

Many deep breaths later...

AZR has been great and is going to send a replacement head/cams/caps my way, valves lapped, all measured for spec.

I"m hoping those parts, and the new series regulator that's on the way will get things sorted. I'll change the oil/filter right away and again soon to help clean it out.

Once it's running ok I'm selling it. Why? Because the other thing AZR did for me was give me a lead on a fantastic GS for sale.

I'm going to wait to share pics and details until the sale is all final. But you're going to like it. And there's a serious road trip involved in picking it up and getting it home. So a new thread is on the way soon.

I"ll continue this thread until the GS1000 is running ok.

 

[tkent02]

My friend's 1000 engine has cams like that, he's running it as a science project to see how long it lasts, the object being to ride it until winter or until he finds a good replacement engine.

I am curious how it will do. So far so good.