GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[Guest]

I need to clean up that starter relay....looks kinda yucky

 

[80GS1000]

Turns out the flasher unit on the 80 GS1000E is a 3 prong unit, so I picked up an electronic 3 prong flasher unit of the same from Autozone. Doesn't work, with it plugged in the turn signal lights won't even turn on, much less flash. :?

But they do flash with the stock gauges plugged in, so I might make a bracket for the idiot lights, the stock tach (which works better than the electronic Acewell one) and the Acewell speedo out of some aluminum plate. Then we'd be back to stock blinker circuitry and the blinkers will work, not to mention a superior functioning tach, gas gauge, and idiot lights.

 

[80GS1000]

Interesting afternoon in the garage. Learned how to rejet the main circuit today, and it turned out to be way easier than I thought, thanks to the GS1000 service manual and the carb cleaning and rebuild article.

Before this rejetting, the bike would start up and idle fine, but refuse to rev higher than 4500 RPM. Big backfires at 4500 RPM. Time to richen up the mains.

This is old hat to all the guys who've done this before, but all you have to do is take the carbs off the bike, drain the gas from the float bowls, take off the screws on the bottom of each carb that hold on the float bowl covers, then unscrew the main jet from the carb (I was afraid I wouldn't be able to spot it but it's the big brass one in the center of the float bowl), screw in a new main jet, then reassemble the float bowl. I used the Dynojet 170 mains, which were the recommended mains for use with K&N pods in the Dynojet directions.

Reinstalled the carbs on the head and adjusted the throttle cable, put the pods back on, primed the carbs (I like the "forcefeed" method of siphoning gas straight from a gas can into the fuel hose on the carbs till the floats say they're full), put the tank back on, and crossed my fingers.

Hit the starter button, started right up, no problem. Let it idle for a few minutes to warm up, and then grabbed the throttle.

It revved cleanly to redline in a heartbeat. No flat spots at all. Yah! \\/\\/ Sounds freakin' *M E A N* too - super throaty like the Cooley/Crosby GS1000s. :-D Only problem I can see is a bit of popping when letting off the throttle - hopefully it's an air leak as I have a set of o-rings and intake boots on order.

Getting super excited to ride this thing. \\/

 

[Mark M]

Only problem I can see is a bit of popping when letting off the throttle - hopefully it's an air leak as I have a set of o-rings and intake boots on order.

Congratulations, nothing like that feeling of getting an engine running right with jets you changed yourself. I bet your popping on trailing throttle is lean pilots, not an air leak. It will get worse once you are running and have the engine pulling fuel through on trailing throttle. On the plus side, going to the next size up pilot jets will eliminate all or most of it and it is not a destructive problem, merely a nuisance.

Note that you will need to re-check your mains after changing the pilots, as the lower circuits affect the higher ones. Also, don't forget to synch your carbs after tweaking the jetting.

Mark

 

[80GS1000]

Congratulations, nothing like that feeling of getting an engine running right with jets you changed yourself. I bet your popping on trailing throttle is lean pilots, not an air leak. It will get worse once you are running and have the engine pulling fuel through on trailing throttle. On the plus side, going to the next size up pilot jets will eliminate all or most of it and it is not a destructive problem, merely a nuisance.

Note that you will need to re-check your mains after changing the pilots, as the lower circuits affect the higher ones. Also, don't forget to synch your carbs after tweaking the jetting.

Mark

Thanks for the thoughts. Such a nice feeling to get it jetted yourself - I thought I was in for a visit to the local GS guru to get the jetting done.

You're right about the lean pilots - that's the next circuit that needs tweaking. I have the air screw turned way out to richen the mixture and get it to idle at about 1100 RPM. Turning the air screw in to the recommended 2-2.5 turns out results in a super lean condition - the idle goes to about 4000 RPM. It starts up immediately with just a tiny bit of choke and immediately idles at about 1100 RPM by just using the air screw to richen it up, any harm in leaving it be the way it is?

The popping turned out to be an air leak. I got a set of new carb rubbers/boots and o-rings from Bikebandit and installed them tonight. Wow, what a difference. No more popping when rolling off the throttle, and much, much crisper and faster throttle response from idle to redline. Those old carb rubbers and o-rings were probably about as old as the bike. :shock:

Other thing I noticed is the engine is much louder now that the carbs have been podded. Anyone else notice this? A guess would be that the airbox muffles the sound coming out of the intake portion of the head when the throttle and therefore the carbs are opened, and the pods just let the sound pass through? The sucking sound of the pods taking in air is pretty cool though, and the motor sounds FIERCE with a capital F.

I get the feeling it's gonna pull like a train once it's back on the road.

 

[Guest]

Yes, the pods make 'em louder! \\/ Alot more throatier, and you can hear the air rushing in.

Without going back through 100 pages, what mods are on the engine now? Just the pods, pipe and jet kit? If those are the only mods, I would do some chop tests before you change the pilots (or anything else). Sounds like you my have fixed your lean condition fixing the leaks.

I've got a Colortune you can use while you're up here in July.

 

[80GS1000]

Yes, the pods make 'em louder! \\/ Alot more throatier, and you can hear the air rushing in.

Without going back through 100 pages, what mods are on the engine now? Just the pods, pipe and jet kit? If those are the only mods, I would do some chop tests before you change the pilots (or anything else). Sounds like you my have fixed your lean condition fixing the leaks.

I've got a Colortune you can use while you're up here in July.

Heheh, I guess I "talk" too much. :lol: Yeah, motor's stock except for the intake/exhaust mods of a pipe, pods, and stage 3 kit. It'll be interesting to see how it runs with a load on the engine. Thanks for the offer on the Colortune - how does it work?

 

[Mark M]

You're right about the lean pilots - that's the next circuit that needs tweaking. I have the air screw turned way out to richen the mixture and get it to idle at about 1100 RPM. Turning the air screw in to the recommended 2-2.5 turns out results in a super lean condition - the idle goes to about 4000 RPM. It starts up immediately with just a tiny bit of choke and immediately idles at about 1100 RPM by just using the air screw to richen it up, any harm in leaving it be the way it is?

The air screws are OK until you are about 3.5 turns out. At that point, you are maxxed out on that pilot jet and should jump to the next size. If you start without much choke and it idles OK, it should be fine. If there is one circuit to be lean on, it's the pilot, at least it won't wreck the engine.

BTW, you are going at it from the wrong direction. You should sort your pilot circuit first, then the needle, then the mains. This is because the lower circuits affect the higher ones and starting at the bottom stops you from chasing in circles, adjusting again and again to narrow it down.

Yes, pods are much louder than the airbox. In a good way, I always thought.:-D

Mark

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the offer on the Colortune - how does it work?

It's a see-through spark plug. You can see the color of the burn, which allows you to fine-tune your pilot screws.

 

[80GS1000]

Alright-

Paging Johnnay and other folks using newer GSXR 600/750 rear wheels.

What's the measurement from the outside of the rear sprocket to the outside of the rear brake disc on your wheel? I'm measuring 8.25" with the 2006 GSXR 1000 rear wheel.

Last big issue/challenge with this build is chain alignment. The sprocket sticks out too far to the left by about 1/2", even with the cush drive rubbers shaved down 15 mm. Rather than hacking another 1/2" from the left side of the cush drive on the 6.0" 2006 GSXR 1000 wheel (and associated mods like new spacers etc), would it be easier to just use a 5.5" 2004/2005 GSXR 750 wheel? Would this bring the chain in any further by using the 5.5" wheel vs. the 6.0" wheel?

 

[Mark M]

Alright-

Last big issue/challenge with this build is chain alignment. The sprocket sticks out too far to the left by about 1/2", even with the cush drive rubbers shaved down 15 mm. Rather than hacking another 1/2" from the left side of the cush drive on the 6.0" 2006 GSXR 1000 wheel (and associated mods like new spacers etc), would it be easier to just use a 5.5" 2004/2005 GSXR 750 wheel? Would this bring the chain in any further by using the 5.5" wheel vs. the 6.0" wheel?

I believe most of the people doing this swap used a GS500 sprocket carrier and cush drive, which is significantly narrower than the GSXR parts.


Mark

 

[johnnay]

Alright-

Paging Johnnay and other folks using newer GSXR 600/750 rear wheels.

What's the measurement from the outside of the rear sprocket to the outside of the rear brake disc on your wheel? I'm measuring 8.25" with the 2006 GSXR 1000 rear wheel.

8 & 1/16" for mine, although the sprocket carrier sticks out from the wheel and could be reduced by ~.25". I think you'd definitely have an easier time with a 5.5" wheel.

btw, got your PM on the axle size - sorry for not replying earlier - It's 25mm.

 

[80GS1000]

8 & 1/16" for mine, although the sprocket carrier sticks out from the wheel and could be reduced by ~.25". I think you'd definitely have an easier time with a 5.5" wheel.

btw, got your PM on the axle size - sorry for not replying earlier - It's 25mm.

Totally agree. Just snagged a 5.5" 2005 GSXR 750 rim and rear axle/spacers off eBay - hopefully this'll help with the chain alignment issue.

The sprocket carrier, axle, and rear brake disc interchange between the 04/05 GSXR 750 and 06 GSXR 1000 (at least by part numbers) so hopefully it'll bolt up in the 2006 GSXR 1000 swingarm and provide good chain alignment. Might have to use the 2005 GSXR 750 wheel spacers and my trimmed cush drive rubbers.

 

[Billy Ricks]

The sprocket sticks out too far to the left by about 1/2", even with the cush drive rubbers shaved down 15 mm.

Does the trimmed down dampers really move the sprocket carrier in? You still have the bearing support which if the correct one will keep the sprocket carrier at the same position even with trimmed dampers. The bearing support would need shortening too. You would need to shorten the side between the sprocket carrier bearing and the hub bearing the same amount you trimmed the dampers.

 

[80GS1000]

Does the trimmed down dampers really move the sprocket carrier in? You still have the bearing support which if the correct one will keep the sprocket carrier at the same position even with trimmed dampers. The bearing support would need shortening too. You would need to shorten the side between the sprocket carrier bearing and the hub bearing the same amount you trimmed the dampers.

The trimmed dampers do move the sprocket carrier in on the newer GSXR wheels, up to a point, because they act as spacers as well. After that, hard parts like bearings, spacers and the cush drive/sprocket carrier themselves start touching and you can't move it in more without modifying them.

The distance between the outside of the rear sprocket and the rear brake rotor before trimming the dampers was 8.75"; I got it down to 8.25" by trimming the rubbers, and it needs to be 7.75" for proper chain alignment. That last 1/2" is a bear because that's where metal starts touching metal. If the same ratio of width can be trimmed from the 5.5" wheel to get the sprocket carrier moved inward, it should work a treat for getting chain alignment right, I hope. :lol:

 

[Ogri]

8 & 1/16" for mine, although the sprocket carrier sticks out from the wheel and could be reduced by ~.25". I think you'd definitely have an easier time with a 5.5" wheel.

Mine measures the same as johnnay's from sprocket to rotor on my 17x6 PM wheel.

 

[80GS1000]

In case anyone's curious, here's an update on the sprocket/chain alignment issue.

This is the current rear suspension setup:

2005 GSXR 750 rear wheel (5.5x17"), 180 section Michelin Pilot Power rear tire
2005 GSXR 750 sprocket carrier
2006 GSXR 1000 cush drive rubbers cut down 15 mm
520 chain conversion, 5/8" offset 520 front sprocket, rear sprocket flipped over for more clearance
2006 GSXR 1000 swingarm w/ custom fabbed/welded monoshock conversion
2005 GSXR 750 wheel spacers

Some notes:

The 2005 GSXR 750 wheel bolts right up using the 750 spacers into the 2006 GSXR 1000 swingarm. The wheel alignment and brake rotor alignment is spot on. A bit of unpowered downhill coasting road testing shows that the bike tracks perfectly in a straight line with this setup, and falls into corners and holds a line very well. The steering geometry and radial tires make it feel like a modern sportbike.

Turns out that the 2005 GSXR 750 sprocket carrier is a bit narrower than the 2006 GSXR 1000 carrier, which is good because it brings the sprocket in a few extra mm.

Trying to quantify how much the sprocket/chain alignment is off has been tough. I used an additional 1.5 mm spacer behind the 5/8" offset front sprocket to offset it an additional 1.5 mm and rechecked front/rear sprocket alignment with a straight edge. The alignment was perfect, although the chain would hit the frame if you tried to mount it that way. So if 1.5 mm is milled from the face of the sprocket carrier to bring the sprocket inward an additional 1.5 mm with the 5/8" offset front sprocket, it *should* line up perfectly.

Here's the sprocket carrier:

Need to find a machine shop with a good lathe now. Also starting to doubt that this bike will be ready in time for the Yosemite/Tahoe rally, but there *is* a 2002 Bandit 1200 with only 1200 miles in the local classifieds for a song....

 

[Guest]

Also starting to doubt that this bike will be ready in time for the Yosemite/Tahoe rally, but there *is* a 2002 Bandit 1200 with only 1200 miles in the local classifieds for a song....

Any updates? You got that beast flying down the road yet? :-D

 

[80GS1000]

Any updates? You got that beast flying down the road yet? :-D

Thanks for asking. The sprocket carrier came back from the machine shop yesterday, so I took it for a test ride last night, and man it feels quick! Feels super torquey now, hit the gas a little bit in any gear and you accelerate HARD right away. Up a few HP with the pipe/pods/rejet and minus 90-100 pounds of weight. Turns and stops really nice too. Sounds incredible too when you get on the gas. Everything was going great till the clip master link came off when I was gunning it, which caused the chain to come off and the bike to have to be towed back home. 8-[ This thing is definitely in test mode right now.

As for the rally, I'll bring the bike if anyone wants to check it out, but will most likely be riding a GSXR for the weekend until the kinks are all worked out on the GS.

 

[first timer]

you have been to quiet! whats been going on?