GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[patrickmcp]

Just bought a 82 GS1100 and 04 GSXR front end and the link for the bearing guy works, but theres no contact information...Would you have his email address or phone #. thanks.

An update-

The toughest part about doing this particular front end swap is the difference in steering stem diameter between the GS1000 and the GSXR 1000. The bearings on the bottom are the same size, but the bearings on the top are different.

The steering stem bearings on the two bikes are like this:

GS1000 UPPER:
25 mm inner diameter, 47 mm outer race diameter, and 15 mm height

GS1000 LOWER:
30 mm inner diameter, 55 mm outer race diameter, and 17 mm height

GSXR1000 UPPER:
30 mm inner diameter, 55 mm outer race diameter, and 17 mm height

GSXR1000 LOWER:
30 mm inner diameter, 55 mm outer race diameter, and 17 mm height

So, that leaves you with a few options. You can turn the GSXR steering stem down 5 mm on a lathe to get the upper steering stem to get it to fit the stock GS1000 bearing. This however potentially compromises the strength of the stem. You can get a new stem made to match the GSXR lower triple and the GS steering stem. But this is a PITA, involving drawing up accurate specifications to send to a machine shop for fabrication.

Or you can get the correct 30x47x15 bearing to mate the two. \\/ This guy custom makes these bearings for front end swaps, they are not available from any bearing manufacturer. Just so happens that the SV steering bearings are the same as the GS. Gotta love Suzuki interchangablilty.

Ground clearance shouldn't be too much of an issue as the new forks are only .5" shorter than the GS1000 forks. The main potential ground clearance issue is the fact that the new Gixxer front end has a lower profile 17" tire instead of the 19" on the GS1000. But the radial tire and vastly superior front forks should help prevent bottoming out. To be determined.

 

[80GS1000]

http://www.twinworksfactory.com/contact.html

 

[patrickmcp]

Thanks for the information. Just got one more...If get a 2006 rear swingarm, such as yours, will I be able to use 1996 gsxr1100 rear wheel or is there an axle size issue?

Thanks

 

[80GS1000]

Thanks for the information. Just got one more...If get a 2006 rear swingarm, such as yours, will I be able to use 1996 gsxr1100 rear wheel or is there an axle size issue?

Thanks

Honestly I dunno. You'd have an easier time getting a 2004/2005 GSXR 750 5.5x17" rim in the 06 1000 swingarm as it bolts right up using the 750 wheel spacers. I've heard of people using Gixxer 1100 wheels in the stock GS1100 swingarm though, ask/search around on this site and oldskoolsuzuki.info

 

[rufus]

Wow, haven't been on in awhile and I gotta say the bike looks great. Last time I was around the welding was still in progress for the rear.

 

[jwhelan65]

Tank, tail, and seatrim are back from the painter. I'm happy with the way it turned out. The SUZUKI logo is painted on. Now I just need to find a Yoshimura decal with a black "YOSHIMURA" so it stands out better on the white background.

Could I see some more pics of the bike up close..this thing is awesome!

 

[80GS1000]

Could I see some more pics of the bike up close..this thing is awesome!

Thanks for your interest man, it's been a fun project and the bike's a hoot to ride. It's not perfect by a long shot but I've learned a ton on this build. Here's a close-up pic.

 

[Guest]

80GS1000,

That dark blue on your body work is fantastic, you've got a top notch bike there.

I've seen and taken a lot of pictures of GS bikes and by far the view from the rear / side looking forward is my favorite.

 

[Clumzi]

Wow. Unreal. I want it .

BTW - where is the battery? -nick

 

[80GS1000]

Wow. Unreal. I want it .

BTW - where is the battery? -nick

The battery is directly under the driver's seat.

 

[patrickmcp]

80GS1000, could you get your machinist dude to fab up another set of 2006 rear swingarm and shock bushings as I so happen to have the same parts as you . Let me know if this is a possibility. Or if you can't would you happen to have CAD files on it? Thanks

 

[80GS1000]

80GS1000, could you get your machinist dude to fab up another set of 2006 rear swingarm and shock bushings as I so happen to have the same parts as you . Let me know if this is a possibility. Or if you can't would you happen to have CAD files on it? Thanks

Sorry man I don't have the CAD files unfortunately. A good CNC machinist should be able to knock them out fairly easily for you. The most critical bits are that the OD fits inside the swingarm bearings, the ID fits your pivot bolt, and the overall length including the brim of the tophat is flush with the swingarm so it'll fit in the frame. Also get them made in hard stainless....

 

[80GS1000]

Electrical overhaul part 1

Electrical overhaul part 1

Blog post on this build #3,569,456.

So as apparently is fairly common, the GS slowly began committing electrical suicide over the summer starting around the time of the West Coast GSR rally. First the headlight wouldn't shine anymore (headlight circuit bad), then the bike wouldn't charge anymore(stator ate itself)...also had a feeling that the stock coils were past their prime since it took 4-5 cranks of the motor for it to start and then you'd have to choke it for a while to keep it idling while cold.

Time to fix all that nonsense....

Picked up a set of green 3 ohm Dyna coils and a set of Dyna spark plug wires a while back and never got around to installing them so tonight was the night. Fairly straightforward installation, just have to cut the harness connectors and wires off the old coils, crimp/solder the wires onto some ring connectors, put on some heat shrink insulation, and then screw the ring connectors to the new Dyna coils. The spark plug wires were similarly easy, just cut them to length and then crimp on a connector for the coil. After they were ready, bolted the new coils to the frame, hooked up the spark plug wires, pulled out the choke, and hit the starter button. It fired on the first crank and idled much better than before....should've done this mod a long time ago.

Next on the list to be installed are a new stator, R/R, and wiring harness. Hopefully this electrical overhaul will keep the electrical gremlins at bay for quite a while.

 

[Mark M]

Also get them made in hard stainless....

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark

 

[80GS1000]

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark

Mark-

Agreed that brass/bronze are very good bushing materials. Should've been more specific and said 440 stainless. 440 stainless which those bushings are made of is known for its anti-galling properties as well...haven't had any binding issues.

 

[Ogri]

These bushings are installed inside the bearing of the swingarm. There should not be any galling or binding as the swingarm will pivot on the bearing, not the bushing.

Nice work 80GS1000, as always. Your bike looks fantastic!

 

[80GS1000]

Oil pump gears and tachometer drive replacement

Oil pump gears and tachometer drive replacement

Decided to upgrade the oil pump gears for more flow/pressure as an oil cooler setup is planned to be installed. First step is to remove the clutch basket. The basket was sent out to Gardner Racing Concepts in Maine to get a heavy duty clutch hub kit installed.

With the clutch basket and the oil pump idler gear removed, it looks like this.

Then you remove the oil pump. I found it easier to remove the oil pump gear first to gain better access to the screws. The screws attaching the pump to the cases required a few whacks with the impact driver to remove. The oil pump o-rings in the cases were replaced with new ones. The paper towel is to prevent anything from falling into the oil pan.

New higher flow oil pump gears from Schnitz Racing. They're marketed for the 1100/1150 but they bolted right up in the 1000.

New(er) oil pump from a GS1000 which'd only done 15K miles vs. close to 35K on the original.

 

[80GS1000]

I re-installed the oil pump, using blue loctite on the screws and gave each screw a few good whacks with the impact driver to get them torqued well.

Installing the oil pump gear circlip. Make sure the oil pump gear is sitting properly on the oil pump shaft.

All done. Make sure to rotate the gears a few times by hand to ensure they're engaging the oil pump properly. The dark spots on the new idler gear are lube from the metal machining process I think.

The old tachometer drive would leak a few drops of oil when the engine was hot and the oil was thin. So it was replaced. Here's the old one.

Fresh OEM tach drive parts. I'm always pleasantly amazed Suzuki has all these new NOS parts for our bikes.

 

[80GS1000]

New tachometer drive assembled.

And installed in the head. Sorry the motor's so greasy, planning on cleaning it for paint soon. Important to make sure the helical gear on the tach drive is seated correctly before tightening the mounting bolt on the drive. I turned the motor a few times by hand by the bolt under the ignition cover to make sure the new tach drive rotated smoothly.

 

[jwhelan65]

wow

wow

80GS,

Just read though the last half of this thread... I need you for a week in my garage!

jw