GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

[solo suzuki]

YoshiJohnny, told you on oldskool...

Love that bike!

 

[first timer]

hey guys don't forget the wiesco co 1100 kit it's another 15cc of fun.....

80gs1000, if you are going with a built up a 80's 1k motor, before you spend money on a ported head you may want to look into a 82/83 1100 gk head. They are 8v and have bigger ports plus the exhaust port is "D" shape to help flow better. And it should be a direct swap. I would go with one myself when i get around to doing my engine (1085 yosh kit 11.2:1) but for some reasone i am very fond of my 29mmSB carbs and it wouldn't make sence to run them on that head with the bigger intake ports that are set up for cv carbs.

also don't forget you need to weld your clutch basket as well, the rivets over time work lose and destroy a motor. maybe we can compare notes if you want, i am guessing it will take about 2k bucks to get a motor built pretty good, that includes port job,

 

[80GS1000]

Firsttimer - Thanks for the tips. A couple questions are below.

hey guys don't forget the wiesco co 1100 kit it's another 15cc of fun.....

Would you notice the difference from the extra 15 ccs?

80gs1000, if you are going with a built up a 80's 1k motor, before you spend money on a ported head you may want to look into a 82/83 1100 gk head. They are 8v and have bigger ports plus the exhaust port is "D" shape to help flow better. And it should be a direct swap. I would go with one myself when i get around to doing my engine (1085 yosh kit 11.2:1) but for some reasone i am very fond of my 29mmSB carbs and it wouldn't make sence to run them on that head with the bigger intake ports that are set up for cv carbs.

How does the flow on that 1100 head compare to a professionally done proper port/polish job on the 1000 head? Which is better?

I think YJ has GSXR 1100 slingshot carbs on his bike - what kind are they? Might as well get the right carbs jetted and podded from the get-go.

also don't forget you need to weld your clutch basket as well, the rivets over time work lose and destroy a motor. maybe we can compare notes if you want, i am guessing it will take about 2k bucks to get a motor built pretty good, that includes port job,

Do you know if the heavy duty clutch basket and hub from APE (http://gszone.biz/clutches.html) will work on the GS1000? If so, I'll probably grab one of those and ditch the OEM clutch basket and hub.

 

[first timer]

Firsttimer - Thanks for the tips. A couple questions are below.



Would you notice the difference from the extra 15 ccs?

i don't know, looked at wiseco and they say both kits are 10.25:1 the bore size is .5mm bigger. then 1085 both cost the same, i don't see why not just go bigger.



How does the flow on that 1100 head compare to a professionally done proper port/polish job on the 1000 head? Which is better?

if you are decided on a ported head why not just get a 1100 gk head. they can be had for pretty cheap. make sure it fits and then get it ported. the main advantage is the d exaust which most modern bike now use. Plus bigger valves to start with i think. do a search in performace mods there was some talk. basically less work for your builder, ie cheaper?

I think YJ has GSXR 1100 slingshot carbs on his bike - what kind are they? Might as well get the right carbs jetted and podded from the get-go.

carbs don't matter much, well they do but most people use smooth bore 33 or 29 on 1000's (it's a vintage thing) but i think you can get away with using early 90's gsxr carbs. i am not sure if they are cv or cv flat side or flat side vm type. people here have used them on their gs1100, once again need to do a search and you will be on your own to get them set right. maybe oss can be of more help.


Do you know if the heavy duty clutch basket and hub from APE (http://gszone.biz/clutches.html) will work on the GS1000? If so, I'll probably grab one of those and ditch the OEM clutch basket and hub.

no i don't i was going to call them to see, i was told all you need to do is get the rivets replaced with heavier duty ones and welded so they don't work lose. falcon i think can do this, basically send the clutch basket to who you get to do your crank.

basically this is my plan for my motor once i get done spending money on my SV.

stage 1

basically these are all the things that make sence to do since you already have your motor half way apart already, you don't want to tear back into a motor to weld the crank just cause now you have money to pay for it, what i am saying is make sure you have all the funds first so you can get it done right the first time and save yourself more money in the long run

-pull motor apart,
-weld and balance crank,
-weld clutch basket
-get jugs bored out by ape or v and h, basiclly a place that really knows what they are doing, plus skim bare minimum the jugs so they are garentee non warped
-have my 79 gs1000 head ported and polished to specific cam spec, skimed same as above, maybe replace valves, but defintly replace valve springs with HD springs and seal. (needed for reliable high rpms, no sence getting crank balanced other wise)
-surface prep the motor for black kalgaurd paint, as talked in your yosh artical.
- new tsubaki cam chain

stage 2

once recoverd from the first hit get some cams the following season that the motor was built for, yeah sure the motor won't be it's best the first season, but it will defintly be better then stock with 2 more point of compresion and every thing cleaned and back in tight specs.

-get some web cams
-adjustable cam gears
-gs 750 16v high presure oil pump gears (i think they work)
-up grade to earl's oil cooler


keep in mind i am assuming that you would have already done a dyna s upgrade, figured what carbs with pods to use, install a manual cam chain tensioner, and used a good 4 into 1 with hi flow competion baffel (2" minimum dia) new coils, and fresh carb boots and o rings.

also depending on how crazy a cam you are going to run and how hard you are going to push this motor, you may need under bucket shims and under buckets (do a search i think it was talked about as well, maybe homgar's thread)

Maybe we should start a thread in the performance section and see if we can get a build list with prices put together, that way others can tell us what we are missing too and we know how much it will all cost.

 

[80GS1000]

Sounds like a man with a plan. If I decide to build up the GS motor, I'll probably do the same or similar once the $$$ gets saved up to get it all done at once, unless I get an early GSXR 1100 motor instead. In the mean time, the suspension mods (read: monoshock conversion) needs to get finished.

As far as cost goes, here's the prices on stage 1 and 2 of the all-out rebuild. Total for this for parts and machining would be about $3000. Plus labor for motor disassembly/reassembly. Not cheap by any means, but worth it.

Although if a 145 HP oilcooled 89-92 GSXR 1127 motor in good condition were to jump in my lap, I wouldn't rule it out as it would probably be cheaper than working up the GS motor. In that case, the GS motor would get slightly built up and go into making a GS 7/11.

-weld and balance crank - might as well lighten it as well to get the motor to spin up faster - APE charges $79 for welding, $225 for lightening and balancing
-weld clutch basket - ??? price not listed on APE or Falicon. Gotta find out if the APE GS1100/1150 clutch basket/hub will work on the 1000, if so, might just replace the OEM basket/hub.
-get jugs bored out by ape or v and h, basiclly a place that really knows what they are doing, plus skim bare minimum the jugs so they are garentee non warped - APE charges $445.20 for the 1085 Wiseco pistons, plus $110 for the overbore machine work
-have my 79 gs1000 head ported and polished to specific cam spec, skimed same as above, maybe replace valves, but defintly replace valve springs with HD springs and seal. (needed for reliable high rpms, no sence getting crank balanced other wise) APE charges $850 for the port and valve job, $139 for the springs
-surface prep the motor for black kalgaurd paint, as talked in your yosh artical. -a few hours of labor, free
- new tsubaki cam chain - $50.79
-up and down undercut of the tranny so it won't jump out of gear under load - APE $528
- K&N pods - about $110
- Mikuni 29 or 33mm smoothbore carbs - $300-400, used - which size is better?
-Dynojet stage 3 kit - about $100
-Dyna S ignition - about $160
-Web cams - about $300
- GS750 oil gears - $20 used
-oil cooler - ????
..................



~ 120-130 HP, torquey, reliable, street AND track worthy GS1085 - PRICELESS!! :lol:

basically this is my plan for my motor once i get done spending money on my SV.

stage 1

basically these are all the things that make sence to do since you already have your motor half way apart already, you don't want to tear back into a motor to weld the crank just cause now you have money to pay for it, what i am saying is make sure you have all the funds first so you can get it done right the first time and save yourself more money in the long run

-pull motor apart,
-weld and balance crank,
-weld clutch basket
-get jugs bored out by ape or v and h, basiclly a place that really knows what they are doing, plus skim bare minimum the jugs so they are garentee non warped
-have my 79 gs1000 head ported and polished to specific cam spec, skimed same as above, maybe replace valves, but defintly replace valve springs with HD springs and seal. (needed for reliable high rpms, no sence getting crank balanced other wise)
-surface prep the motor for black kalgaurd paint, as talked in your yosh artical.
- new tsubaki cam chain

stage 2

once recoverd from the first hit get some cams the following season that the motor was built for, yeah sure the motor won't be it's best the first season, but it will defintly be better then stock with 2 more point of compresion and every thing cleaned and back in tight specs.

-get some web cams
-adjustable cam gears
-gs 750 16v high presure oil pump gears (i think they work)
-up grade to earl's oil cooler


keep in mind i am assuming that you would have already done a dyna s upgrade, figured what carbs with pods to use, install a manual cam chain tensioner, and used a good 4 into 1 with hi flow competion baffel (2" minimum dia) new coils, and fresh carb boots and o rings.

also depending on how crazy a cam you are going to run and how hard you are going to push this motor, you may need under bucket shims and under buckets (do a search i think it was talked about as well, maybe homgar's thread)

Maybe we should start a thread in the performance section and see if we can get a build list with prices put together, that way others can tell us what we are missing too and we know how much it will all cost.

 

[first timer]

yeah that sounds about right but i think there is a little room for play, maybe getter down to around 1800 or so i hope. I think under cut tranny is a little over kill, unless doing AMA vitage races and really going balls out. other things sound about right, may have a little wiggle room here and there for some stuff.

you could save a little more money just using your stock cv carbs with a re jet, that should get you by for a while. for the time being you could just get a 1100 gk head ported or even just swap one on, run stg 3 carbs do the litlte things that can be reused for the big project, then focus on getting the rest of the bike set up,

you may want to look into falcon i think they insist on rebuilding your crank, before they weld it, which might not be a bad idea for a bike with 20k miles on it?

also could look here too see if he has good prices for a rebuild and a crank pimp. http://www.grccranks.com/


i decided to get my suspention and everything elese sorted out on my bike first before going with more power, seems like it would be more healthy that way.



good work researching

-ryan

 

[80GS1000]

i decided to get my suspention and everything elese sorted out on my bike first before going with more power, seems like it would be more healthy that way.

-ryan

Thanks for all the tips!

Right with you on getting the suspension sorted before adding more power to the mix.

Spent most of the afternoon today removing the stock GS1000 rear end in preparation for the '06 GSXR 1000 monoshock conversion.

Work-in-progress pic first, plan after.

Some observations:

GS swingarm is 225 mm wide at the pivot, the GSXR swinger is 231 mm. So each side of the frame at the pivot needs to be widened by 3 mm. A bit of gentle massaging with a grinder will be required. The GS pivot bolt is 17.5 mm in diameter, the GSXR pivot bolt is 23.5 mm. A bushing for the GS pivot for use inside the GSXR swinger will have to be made, or the hole in the frame where the pivot bolt mounts up will need to be widened.

All the electricals behind the side panels will need to be moved as room for the monoshock needs to be made. I like the look of the side panels so they're staying on the bike. The battery will need to go in the tailpiece (thanks YJ for that tip) and and R/R and fusebox will be mounted horizontally where the airbox used to be. Gotta source some new smoothbore 29/33 mm carbs and K&N pods.

With the electricals and airbox out of the way, a few new spacers will need to be made to mount the lower portion of the monoshock to the centerstand bracket. Then a bracket needs to be designed to mount the upper portion of the monoshock, bolted onto a new frame cross-spar, which will then be welded to the frame. New criss-cross (X shaped) frame bracing above this cross-spar will ensure proper load distribution.

Then it's on to the offset front sprocket, 520 chain conversion, and welding plates onto the frame to install the GSXR rearsets.

 

[first timer]

for laughs, give http://www.sudco.com/ a call and see what they say about carbs, they where the big supplier of race stuff back in the day and know their stuff.

you ever think about mounting your electrics under your seat on some aluminum. if i get a chance i'll take a pic.

look here too for carbs
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=579567&postcount=17

 

[80GS1000]

for laughs, give http://www.sudco.com/ a call and see what they say about carbs, they where the big supplier of race stuff back in the day and know their stuff.

you ever think about mounting your electrics under your seat on some aluminum. if i get a chance i'll take a pic.

look here too for carbs
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=579567&postcount=17

Thanks for the tips. I'll give Sudco a shout soon to get pricing and availability. I was thinking of mounting the electricals horizontally under the seat where the airbox used to be. We'll have to see if that turns out to be a viable solution. I'd love to see a pic of how you did it if you get a chance.

From searching the forum, the early GSXR 750/1100 36/38mm carbs with pods seem to be the way to go on the 80 GS1000.

Found out from from calling APE today that their GS1100/1150 clutch hub assembly and basket can be special ordered for a GS1000, which is great. That'll be probably be one of the first engine modifications aside from bigger carbs and pods, as the clutch appears to be the weakest link in these motors per that link you included. Plus the clutch can be swapped out pretty easily.

Thanks again,

PJ

 

[first timer]

here are some pics

hope these help

 

[first timer]

 

[80GS1000]

Thanks for the pics Ryan! Great work there. Really like your electrical board and the custom aluminum rear fender. Where'd you stuff the battery - in the tailpiece?

 

[first timer]

here is the info on the battery

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=552785&postcount=15

-ryan

 

[YoshiJohnny]

Variation on the theme...........

:-D

YJ

oh it's changed since this pic, it's more pared down and better finished

View attachment 1644

 

[isaac]

Damn that electronics repositioning looks pretty cool. Could we see a shot from far away from the side of the bike?

 

[KGB]

Damn that electronics repositioning looks pretty cool. Could we see a shot from far away from the side of the bike?

Will it still get air flow under the tank/seat area?

R/R need cooling air.

 

[80GS1000]

A quick update-

No new pics today, camera battery's dead.

Today the battery, battery box, electronics, rear fender, and aft portion of the airbox got removed in order to test fit the '06 Gixxer 1000 swingarm.

The width of the Gixxer swingarm at the pivot bolt looks just about perfect at 225 mm - the same as the GS1000 swingarm.

The only problem encountered was the portion of the frame where the passenger footrests and exhaust mounts are located. They hit the new swingarm at its widest point.

That frame triangle will need to be cut off and filed smooth on both sides of the frame so that the swingarm can be mounted and to clean up the lines of the bike. As a bonus, those bits of tubular steel will be perfect for frame bracing material.

I'll keep the stock driver footpeg mounting points to make the bike more comfortable on long rides - otherwise it's gonna be Gixxer 1000 rearsets for canyon carving and around town. I test fitted the Gixxer 1k rearset shifter which fit perfectly on the GS shift shaft.

The cutting points are in red in the photo below. Both sides will be done.

The new '06 Gixxer 1000 6x17" rear rim also arrived today. Can't wait to get it fitted. It and the new swingarm are SOOO much lighter than their GS equivalents.

Also ordered a stage 3 Dynojet kit and a set of K&N pod filters for the carbs.

 

[BSinCO13]

WOW this thing is looking great, it's pretty close to what I want to do except to a 1150. Hope to see more pictures and goodluck on the project. :-D

 

[pan]

I'm looking forward to seeing what sort of offset sprocket you will need in order to clear the rim. I will have a similar problem if I decide to go with the 5 1/2 " Astralite instead of the 4 1/2" spoked wheel. Do you think it will need an out rigger bearing to support it?

Mark...

 

[80GS1000]

I'm looking forward to seeing what sort of offset sprocket you will need in order to clear the rim. I will have a similar problem if I decide to go with the 5 1/2 " Astralite instead of the 4 1/2" spoked wheel. Do you think it will need an out rigger bearing to support it?

Mark...

My blind guess is that the front sprocket offset will need to be in the 12-16 mm range to fit make a GSXR 1000 6x17" rim with a 180/190 tire work. Since I'll be using a 520 chain, and the GSXR 1000 and GS 1000 have the same spline pattern on the output shaft, I'll just go ahead and use the GSXR 1000 520 front and rear sprockets and play around with the offset till it's straight front and back. (GSXR 520 front sprocket. GS front sprocket. 1.25 mm spacer, 6 mm spacer.)

I'm not concerned about the rear sprocket and cush drive on this setup as it was designed to work with this tire and rim configuration.

What rear sprocket and cush drive combo are you planning on using? That plus your front offset will ensure clearance.

Is that a magnesium wheel? Droooool.

PJ