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GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
i removed the center stand mounts and fabbed up a pair that are a little stronger, then i gusseted the cross bar a little bit. not that pretty, but should get the job done.

IMG_3355.jpg


IMG_3357.jpg
 
don't really know. stopped by a local fab shop and asked if they had any 1/8" steel plate scraps, and they gave me a couple of large pieces for 15 bucks.
 
What kind of bike do you have and what are you planning on doing with it? :)

82 GS-750E

Used to be my Step-Dads bike. Guy bought a Harley and this thing has sat for 5 years. At the time it was simply an electrical issue (likely recifier, etc). Now 5 years later it's mine, so the project begins. I rode an 86 GSX-R for 2 years as a daily driver, so the bike itself is pretty easy for me, just need to get it back running. Carbs just came off, fluids changing, painted it Ultra-Flat Black new battery, and then process of elimination for the electrical system. Bike rode strong 5 years ago, I'm sure I can get it back. I'm sure it needs new tires, but rather than buy replacements I'd much rather put a new front end and rear end on it.

The look of yours is exactly what I want but without a welder and compressor, fabricating isn't really an option. It would be easier for me to wait until you're done and go from there. Here is a terrible pic right after I finished painting last night. Pics sucks becuase it was night and I used my MDA to take it..

2v00uxi.jpg
 
Did you take your mount holes out to 12 mm?

...Increasing the mount holes to 12 mm will weaken their ability to support a load proportionately.

...If we stay with using the centerstand brackets, probably will have a new VERY strong bolt fabbed up, same hardened steel as they make 10.9 rated or stronger bolts from.

80GS, I haven't touched mine yet - I was actually thinking of bracing them a la runrx02 (nice job, btw), and perhaps doubling the tabs themselves, so that enlarging the holes wouldn't be an issue. Remember, these mounts will be in tension, so the critical point (IMHO), is to have good welds, preferably in 3 planes. I figure the original welds are pretty good, and bracing should make it pretty much bombproof.

I guess it's 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other if you keep the stock tabs & machine a new 10mm bolt, or keep the stock bolt and fab new mounts, but it seems cheaper and quicker to me to do the latter - machining a bolt is bound to cost an hour or more of machining @ $80/hr - that's a pretty bling bolt!! 8-[
1/8 or 1/4 plate steel for mounts would cost around $5. \\:D/

Runrx02, were your replacement mounts in the exact same position as the centerstand mounts? (I wish someone who has completed this mod would chime in - I'd hate to keep them where they are and then find out a 1/2" one way or the other would make a big difference).
 
Runrx02, were your replacement mounts in the exact same position as the centerstand mounts? (I wish someone who has completed this mod would chime in - I'd hate to keep them where they are and then find out a 1/2" one way or the other would make a big difference).

I really don't know how close the centerstand mounts were compared to the new mounts, but the location of the bottom mounts really just depends on where you place the top mount to get the ride height you want. Basically after you determine where you are locating the top mount, the bottom falls into place.

The locations of my mounts will probably be a little bit different than yours because my dog bones are custom length to better locate the shock in the swingarm hole.
 
80GS

I happen to be pretty good with Photoshop and wanted to see how the rearend would look a little shorter, more aggressive seat, and a color change.

The rear end like this looks similar to the 1st gen GSXR

2ywh94p.jpg


moj5-suzuki-GSXR-1.gif
 
80GS

I happen to be pretty good with Photoshop and wanted to see how the rearend would look a little shorter, more aggressive seat, and a color change.

The rear end like this looks similar to the 1st gen GSXR

2ywh94p.jpg


moj5-suzuki-GSXR-1.gif


Interesting Photoshop work there. Never seen the bike in blue before.

And it does look like an early Gixxer with the tail shortened. I'm more a fan of leaving the length tail and seat alone because they keep the bike looking like a GS, but if it were your bike, what would you do?

As for the top shock mount, I picked up the top shock mounting bracket from a '92 GSXR 750:

75_1_b.JPG


The top mounting hole in the '06 Gixxer thou shock fits almost perfectly in this bracket, only needs a couple of thin washers as shims for the horizontal mounting bolt. I'll drill and tap 4 bolt mounting holes in a 1" thick piece of steel plate and then weld it to the frame.

For extra strength and to make the frame stiffer, I may add some X shaped tubular steel cross bracing above the upper shock mount spar like what Gixxeron did over on OSS:

frame_123.jpg


The Yoshimura GS1000 frame had tubular bracing at the lower part of the downtubes directly above the rearsets to help the frame cope with the force of the hopped up 135 HP Yoshimura GS1000 motor trying to pull the sprockets together. I think it'd be a good idea to add this type of bracing to my frame as well to help accomodate the added stress of an offset front sprocket and a much wider than stock 180 radial tire.

http://www.slcelectronics.com/GS1000_Build/Yoshi-Article/pages/page12.htm
 
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Could a 750 front end be used on my 750e? I see a bunch of 2001-2003 GSXR font ends available but I'm not sure if it's required, or if you just went with 1000 since thats what you originally have.
 
Could a 750 front end be used on my 750e? I see a bunch of 2001-2003 GSXR font ends available but I'm not sure if it's required, or if you just went with 1000 since thats what you originally have.

For your purpose, I'd suggest using a 01+ Hayabusa or Gixxer 1000 front end as they're set up for the weight of a heavier bike like a GS. Get a complete front end if you do it - much easier than buying parts one at a time. I'd be afraid of bottoming out the GSXR 750 forks when installed on a GS750 because of the weight difference between the bikes. Plus the 600/750 forks are even shorter than the 1000/Busa forks.

You'll need the special adapter bearing and a new speedo and headlight brackets to make this work. You'll need to replace the lower steering stem bearing on the GSXR steering stem with a tapered roller bearing. You'll also need to jack up the rear end a bit by getting longer rear shocks or doing the monoshock conversion - otherwise your header will hit the pavement. And check your steering geometry to make sure it will handle well.
 
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For the most part it seems fairly straightforward. My only disconnect is regarding the geometry. I saw your post regarding it. If the tube on the frame is already at a set angle, I don't see how you even HAVE an option of doing anything in the way of steering geometry. To be safe, I'd likely pick a setup that someone else has done as I know it works (like your setup with the adapter bearing).

For the rearend, I'm gonna wait until I can find some measurements, or a tried and true setup from someone so I can jump into the monoshock with an idea of what I need.
 
For the most part it seems fairly straightforward. My only disconnect is regarding the geometry. I saw your post regarding it. If the tube on the frame is already at a set angle, I don't see how you even HAVE an option of doing anything in the way of steering geometry.

You can change the relative steering head angle to the ground (even though the tube on the frame is at a set angle) by raising and lowering the rear end. Rear end up, steeper head angle, rear end down, flatter head angle. Adjust till right. ;) It's one of the advantages of the mono conversion - the length of the shocks is no longer a limiting factor when adjusting ride height and steering head angle.
 
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As far as swingarm measurements, here's what I have collected.. all rough measurements either by me or by an ebay seller, so use at your own risk. I'm afraid the columns don't line up all that well, but hopefully you can figure it out... :-D

Year Make Model pivotwidth swngarmlength pivotboltdiam Axlediam.
1980 Suzuki GSS1100e 225 530 16
1996 Suzuki Bandit 220 555
2006 Honda CBR1000RR 279 590
2005 Yamaha R1 267 584
2004 Suzuki GSXR600 233 545 25 30
90-93 Honda VFR 242 565 20
94-97 Honda VFR 227 560 20
19?? Honda RVF400 215 540 20
2005 Honda CBR600RR 260 20 25
 
Ahh good stuff, do we have a resource page on these specs for all GS models? I'd like to compare mine against those numbers.
 
Johnnay-

Is that Gixxer 6 pivot width measurement with or without the pivot bolt spacers/dust covers installed?

06 Gixxer 1000 is 225 mm at the pivot with the stock spacers removed, you all have seen the custom fabbed spacers required to install the stock GS pivot bolt in the Gixxer 1000 swingarm pivot.
 
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Johnnay-

Is that Gixxer 6 pivot width measurement with or without the pivot bolt spacers/dust covers installed?

06 Gixxer 1000 is 225 mm at the pivot with the stock spacers removed, you all have seen the custom fabbed spacers required to install the stock GS pivot bolt in the Gixxer 1000 swingarm pivot.

With the spacers/dust covers. My original swingarm had em, so I think it's a good idea - milling a couple of mm's off the frame or swingarm to accommodate them isn't a big deal IMHO.
 
With the spacers/dust covers. My original swingarm had em, so I think it's a good idea - milling a couple of mm's off the frame or swingarm to accommodate them isn't a big deal IMHO.


All roads lead to Rome. :-D

I'm curious to see how all of our monoshock installations look when they're done. It looks like runrx02 is pretty much done with his mono mounts installation - is there anything left to do?
 
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