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GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
A few more pics:

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That looks awesome! Nice job! That's going to be quite an animal when you're done. You sure have been working hard on it, and now it's about ready to pay off! \\:D/

Still trying to make it out? Maybe save the paint for afterward?
 
That looks awesome! Nice job! That's going to be quite an animal when you're done. You sure have been working hard on it, and now it's about ready to pay off! \\:D/

Still trying to make it out? Maybe save the paint for afterward?

Thanks! I'm getting really excited to ride it. I've been "riding" it down the sloped driveway to test it out, can't wait to get 1000cc of power into the mix! Really smooth ride with the radials and eyeball-prints-on-your-visor brakes.

Definitely want to come out to Reno and Yosemite for the get-together to meet everyone and see some other GS's! Wish there were time for paint but yeah, it'll probably have to wait. That date has been a lot of motivation, a deadline of sorts. :lol: I wouldn't miss out on riding the Little Dragon with a bunch of other GS's for anything. There really are some great twisties in the Yosemite area for sure.

How's the finger? Looks like the doctors did a great job of putting it back together - all the best for a full recovery.
 
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Thanks! I'm getting really excited to ride it. I've been "riding" it down the sloped driveway to test it out, can't wait to get 1000cc of power into the mix! Really smooth ride with the radials and eyeball-prints-on-your-visor brakes.

Definitely want to come out to Reno and Yosemite for the get-together to meet everyone and see some other GS's! Wish there were time for paint but yeah, it'll probably have to wait. That date has been a lot of motivation, a deadline of sorts. :lol: I wouldn't miss out on riding the Little Dragon with a bunch of other GS's for anything. There really are some great twisties in the Yosemite area for sure.

How's the finger? Looks like the doctors did a great job of putting it back together - all the best for a full recovery.

Yeah, save the paint for when the snow is flying. Ride that beast! :-D Plus Tom says the flys are as big as hummingbirds.... you don't want to bugger up a new paint job! It looks plenty cool the way it is now!

The finger is healing ok, I think. It's still pink and I have feeling in the tip. Hopefully the bone is mending, too. Xrays and stiches out Friday. [-o<
 
someone stole your chain already!!!

PUNKS!
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you don't need no stinkin' paint...go RIDE IT
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Notes from the garage....

We're in testing mode now. I pushed the bike up to the top of my slightly sloped street and coasted it down the street, probably 200 yards or so. Wheel alignment is great, it tracks straight. \\:D/ Very smooth ride, much quicker steering and I know I've said it before, but Gixxer brakes FREAKIN' RULE. :D

I tried to save about 5-6 pounds by going with a smaller than recommended battery. Well, this smaller battery will turn over the bike fine, once, before crapping out and needing to be put back on the trickle charger. OK for a racebike, but not for a streetbike. So I wound up getting the recommended size of AGM battery for a GS1000 and enlarging the battery compartment in the seat to suit. The bike starts up at will now, and seems to run smoother at idle too, probably because of a stronger/hotter spark from the extra juice the bigger battery provides.

Also installed swingarm spools on the the Gixxer swingarm and got a Pitbull spooled stand for cheap (gotta love eBay) to suit. Love it, the spools and this stand make getting the rear end up in the air securely a snap.

Not sure why, but the turn signals don't flash. We're using GSXR 750 stock signals. The turn signals will light up when the signal button is pushed left or right, but they won't flash. Maybe there's not enough impedance compared to the stock signals???

As mentioned before, the rear wheel is about 1/2" too wide on the left side to get chain alignment right even with the cush drive rubbers trimmed 15 mm. Looks like 1/2" will need to be removed from the cush drive on the wheel and the "posts" on the back of the sprocket carrier. We'll also need a new wheel spacer on the left side to make up the difference, and probably a new shorter sprocket carrier spacer.
 
Notes from the garage....

Very smooth ride, much quicker steering and I know I've said it before, but Gixxer brakes FREAKIN' RULE. :D


I will attest to that statement as well!!! PJ, I will try again to get the camera to take some pics......will send them via email if you pm me your email address.

Mike
 
i have had very good luck with the yusa ytz10s battery for the 05 cbr600f4i. it is much smaller then the original and had enough power to spin the motor for a long enough time until it catches. just got done putting 2100 miles in 5 days on the battery and worked like a charm. but my bike is a one crank starter. i would say while you are in beta stage, get one of the cheap oem batteries and beat that up until you get everything tuned and set so your bike will be a one crank starter too.
 
i have had very good luck with the yusa ytz10s battery for the 05 cbr600f4i. it is much smaller then the original and had enough power to spin the motor for a long enough time until it catches. just got done putting 2100 miles in 5 days on the battery and worked like a charm. but my bike is a one crank starter. i would say while you are in beta stage, get one of the cheap oem batteries and beat that up until you get everything tuned and set so your bike will be a one crank starter too.

Thanks for the tip. The issue I had with the smaller battery (80 CCA) was that it would start the engine once, but that's all the juice it had. After that, if you shut the engine off, it didn't have enough juice to start up the engine again. The bigger battery (220 CCA) will start the engine like a light switch - thumb the starter and the motor roars to life in one revolution, and can do so over and over again. That Yuasa battery sounds nice, might try that out someday.
 
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I got the ytz10s also and I mounted it behind the transmission just above the swingarm. never had a starting problem yet. Cranks over just like the bigger battery.
 
What is your seat height now? It looks quite a bit taller than stock.

I do love how it's turned out though!
 
What is your seat height now? It looks quite a bit taller than stock.

I do love how it's turned out though!

Seat height in the driver's seat is pretty much the same as stock. The pillion area is a lot higher than stock. The rear end was jacked up to steepen the steering angle for faster steering and to provide more ground clearance since the new forks are several inches shorter than stock.

That bike is so bad! Are you going to do any track days with it?
Haven't decided yet. Would love to, but wadding this thing up in a corner would be a heartbreaker. Maybe I'll get a lightly damaged (plastics scuffed etc) SV650 or Gixxer 600 and turn it into a trackbike/streetfighter - both would be much easier to replace if wrecked.

Decided that I didn't like the way the gauges looked, so I made a new bracket for the Acewell. Looks like it'll be the only instrumentation for now, it cleans up the look on the front IMO.

DSC01510.jpg


vs.

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Turns out the turn signals won't flash because there's not enough resistance in the system for the turn signal box to make them flash. If you plug the stock gauges in, they flash just fine. Now there's gotta be a way to fake out the flasher box...anyone? [-o<
 
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Have you tried swapping out the flasher with an automotive one? If so, you may need to eliminate the self-cancel unit, and replace your turn signal switch with a maunual cancel one. That's what I did when my self-cancel box quit working. Not a hard job. I have notes on the re-wire if you need them.
 
When I put '05 Gixxer 600 Turn Signals on my GS1100ES, my flasher relay wouldn't work either. I swapped in an electronic flasher and it works fine now, well for the most part.

The flashing is a little intermittent at an idle, but anything over idle, they work as they should. That little problem is most likely due to my malfunctioning rectifier tho...
 
Replace #20. That's the flasher. The other is the self-cancelling computer. And now that you mention it, since you are not using the stock speedo, your self-canceller won't work anymore. So you will have to manual-cancel the sigs anyway. You might be able to leave it hooked up though... it just won't do it's job. Replace the flasher and see what happens.
 
Replace #20. That's the flasher. The other is the self-cancelling computer. And now that you mention it, since you are not using the stock speedo, your self-canceller won't work anymore. So you will have to manual-cancel the sigs anyway. You might be able to leave it hooked up though... it just won't do it's job. Replace the flasher and see what happens.


Thanks for the help Bruce. The turn signal relay is part #8 in the lower right corner of the wiring diagram. There are three wires coming out of it - orange/green, brown, and light blue. Do you know what each wire does, and how do you wire up an automotive or electronic flasher to the harness using these wires? I assume one wire is for positive, one for the negative/ground, and the other for the switch on the handlebars. Following the diagram, it looks like light blue goes to the blinker switch on the handlebars, but the polarity of the others is a mystery.
 
The flasher should just unplug, and then plug in the automotive one. No wiring needed. I'm not sure if your bike is the same as my '78, but here is a pic. The round silver gizmo is the automotive flasher.

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3 bucks at the parts store. Buy the heavy-duty one. I would try that first as that may be all you need to do. If that doesn't work, here's the thread I posted when I re-wired my set-up. Let me know your results, and let me know if I can help further.:)

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=90299
 
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