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GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
Have you noticed much flex in your frame while riding?

Once you have the design of the frame bracing all set, anyone who's experienced with MIG/TIG welding and simple fabrication should be able to do it. The guy I used for the monoshock mounts and first round of bracing has been doing frame repairs and bodywork on cars for 20+ years. The subframe is rock solid now from the bracing there.

I haven't noticed much flex on my Skunk, but I haven't ridden it that hard either. Maybe a bit on some high speed sweepers. But the Beast will be modified, and since it's being stripped down to bare frame, I thought I might as well stiffen it up a bit. It probably wouldn't cost that much. I know a million frame and body guys....I'll ask around to see if any have done this kind of work before.
 
Heres a pic of the sort of bracing i do (its nicked from another site :)) the guys there spent ages sorting out what was what & still came up with exactly what we'd been doing for 20+ years :-D

F is not really needed & can cause more hassle than it worth, care i needed when fitting A & C cos they can foul the tank (tack & check before fully welding)

the area around C is the weakest area of a gs or gsx frame, E & D stiffen the swingarm area considerably Although i use a much smaller lighter tube for E

the green D is for a mono conversion but i do mine differently to that

Hope it helps

Saving it lol. So are B, C, and E just metal plate or are they fully boxed in like the area where the upper rear shock mounts are?
 
hi guys
B & C are boxed in as ironriot says but i tend to use either tube as 80gs1000 has done for E or a bit of oval section purely cos i prefer the look

to answer 80gs1000 ive used this bracing on an otherwise stock gs & you can certainly feel the improvement the bike tracks better & wollows less when flicking from side to side, its not such a dramatic improvement as fitting modern running gear but if you are doing that as well it will help you get the most out of your new suspension & brakes

obviously its not going to be up to gsxr1000 standards in the handling stakes but anyone doing this will find a great improvement over stock

there is a weight penalty to doing it obviously but a lot of that can be made back by a mild engine tune & the use of lighter parts elsewhere
 
Here's a great thread on bracing the GS1000 frame for this Yoshi GS1000 replica. Great story behind this bike. http://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi-bin/Yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1159728921

NP7L4830.JPG
 
Yep great story & great thread the bike looks good but if you go down this route please dont make the same glaring errors that they did on the grinding & welding its counterproductive

i pointed it out at the time & was completely ignored, no surprise there :cry:
 
Yep great story & great thread the bike looks good but if you go down this route please dont make the same glaring errors that they did on the grinding & welding its counterproductive

i pointed it out at the time & was completely ignored, no surprise there :cry:

Well i know which posts were yours, now. Lol. Even though I have little to no experience with welding, I atleast know that you can't put the steel through that many heat cycles. I was reading through the thread and was saying to myself, 'hmm why they welding one area up so many times? That can't be good for the steel.' I'd think that later when the frame becomes fatigued those welds on welds are going to start cracking
 
Well i know which posts were yours, now. Lol. Even though I have little to no experience with welding, I atleast know that you can't put the steel through that many heat cycles. I was reading through the thread and was saying to myself, 'hmm why they welding one area up so many times? That can't be good for the steel.' I'd think that later when the frame becomes fatigued those welds on welds are going to start cracking

Heh, yeah you kinda have to cringe a bit when you see pics like this. Hope this wasn't in a structural area. Nice job on the rest of it though.

knarf_frameweldholes.jpg


knarf_frameweldup.jpg
 
It look like that is the bottom of the frame. Seeing something like that would make me question any work done on the rest of the bike.
 
Re: GS1000 Project Bike

Re: GS1000 Project Bike

Wow, that is one clean bike like no other - a one-of-a-kind classic bike.
I had to do a double take that this is indeed an 80/81 GS1100 due to
the body. But yes, it has the non-TSCC engine with the round cam
plates. This is a clear indication of a 8-valve GS1000 motor !!

Nice job, and clean attributes !! \\:D/
 
We might do a bit of dyno tuning to dial in the carburation and get some HP/torque figures once it's all together. Why engine performance is so anemic right now is a mystery, it should be much better. No idea on the motor's history so a strip down may be revealing as to the cause of the weak HP. It pulls hard to 80-90 MPH and then wheezes to 100. Final gearing ratio is stock at 2.8.

It should blow past 100 mph in 3rd, and pull hard into 4th up to 125 or so.

You should degree your cams if you're going to do all that engine work
 
It should blow past 100 mph in 3rd, and pull hard into 4th up to 125 or so.

You should degree your cams if you're going to do all that engine work

Yep, the motor's currently sick and senile and in need of some surgery. :D

Part of the rebuild will be APE adjustable cam sprockets so we can degree the cams.

Wonder what the top speed will be once all the motor work has been done with a HP target of 120-135 HP?
 
So, I got some quotes on the following parts and machine work. Holy crap, talk about expensive. Still want to get all this done, but for budget reasons I doubt it's all going to get done in one shot.

Wiseco 1100 cc kit, cylinder boring
ported/flowed head
new valves
new camchain
Carrillo rods
Falicon lightened/balanced/indexed/welded supercrank
undercut tranny
Web Cams, #110 grind, .395 lift.
New Dyna 2000 ignition
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
New stator/regulator
Pingel fuel tap
Black engine paint.
Falicon welded clutch basket
Custom 4/2/1 exhaust

Think we'll break this motor rebuild into 2 stages to spread the cost over a couple of years. The top end is the part that's sickly on this motor so we'll start there and then do the bottom end when budget allows. Any disadvantage to this approach other than having to tear down the motor twice, once for the top end and once for the bottom end? Am I going to make my stock rods and crank go BANG by not doing the bottom end at the same time as the top end?

So Stage 1 (top end) would be:


Wiseco 1100 cc kit, cylinder boring
ported/flowed head
new valves
Web Cams, #110 grind, .395 lift.
New Dyna 2000 ignition
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
New stator/regulator
Pingel fuel tap
Black engine paint.
Custom 4/2/1 exhaust

Stage 2 (bottom end) would be:

new camchain (can't replace this without splitting the cases :/ )
Carrillo rods
Falicon lightened/balanced/indexed/welded supercrank
Falicon welded clutch basket
undercut tranny
 
new camchain (can't replace this without splitting the cases :/ )

you should be able to do it by splitting the old one, hook up the new one to it, rotate until the new shows up, master link, voila!

at least that's the way i remember doing mine :-s

also did my top end without touching the bottom end but i didn't go higher cc or compression rating, just new rings and a 'cleanup' of the valves and ports. that was 40,000kms ago, so far so good...
 
GS 1000 streetfighter

GS 1000 streetfighter

remember the reply's you recieved when you started. most post told you if it was their bike in the condition it was in, to leave it alone. buy a bandit or use a bike that was tired, then youd have two. you stated you wanted something diff, looks alot like the old bikes i see alot more of.dont get me wrong i liked the idea of a wes cooley track bike. but that had the twin shocks,frontend was stock, just internals were changed, and braced. flatslides cams and punched. with what youve invested in Gixer suspension and man hours. You mighthave something close to the pictures you showed us in 06 was it.Granted you will have a fast great handleing GS 1000. but i liked the classic, you started with. Alot of us would give up our wifes for a bike like that. what am i saying. your bike was worth alot more than that!:-D S.N.
 
remember the reply's you recieved when you started. most post told you if it was their bike in the condition it was in, to leave it alone. buy a bandit or use a bike that was tired, then youd have two. you stated you wanted something diff, looks alot like the old bikes i see alot more of.dont get me wrong i liked the idea of a wes cooley track bike. but that had the twin shocks,frontend was stock, just internals were changed, and braced. flatslides cams and punched. with what youve invested in Gixer suspension and man hours. You mighthave something close to the pictures you showed us in 06 was it.Granted you will have a fast great handleing GS 1000. but i liked the classic, you started with. Alot of us would give up our wifes for a bike like that. what am i saying. your bike was worth alot more than that!:-D S.N.

Worth more to who, you? Thats completely irrelevant. Many people have already pointed this out to him, and he has politely explained his case and left it alone. But for some reason, the PURISTS can't contain themselves and have to keep going on about it. The bike doesn't belong to you, so it doesn't really matter what YOU think it should be.

Get over it already!
 
Here we go again. :rolleyes:

Stock is a good starting place. ;) If all those stock parts worked as well as the good stuff, then I'd use 'em. Fact is that modern suspension and brakes are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the stock stuff.

Eventually the tire manufacturers will stop making bias tires, then what?

Heh, I bought a high mileage, wheezy engined GS1000 for cheap with a rusty, faded tank that had sat out in the sun getting old and rusty and unridden for quite some time. The seller put some spit shine on for the first photo, it's not that purty in real life. Well, till I've put some effort into it. And it's still not too purty. Feel better now? ;)

If people have a problem with someone creating a GS1000 that's better handling, better looking and faster than it was the day it rolled out of the factory, move onto the next thread. ;)

Now about that engine rebuild...
 
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Any disadvantage to this approach other than having to tear down the motor twice, once for the top end and once for the bottom end? Am I going to make my stock rods and crank go BANG by not doing the bottom end at the same time as the top end?

I'd say that's a good approach. With the top end off, you'll be able to check a few things out in the bottom, like checking for play on your rods and making sure your crank is straight. If it shifts good now, your tranny is probably fine, and will be with the mods.

I'm not undercutting my tranny gears.... they already are undercut to a degree. Are you going with straight-cut gears on the crank and clutch?
 
I agree, good approach to do it in 2 stages. All that lower end stuff is expensive. Most people who I remember modding their bikes "back in the day" never had any lower end problems.

I thought you were looking a bit over the top on your spending. Doing half of that 15 years ago set me back about $1,000, with me doing all the wrench work. I didn't add cams

While I'm more on the purist end, you have inspired me to start gathering parts for my rolling parts bike. So far, and 1100 swingarm and some more Marzocchi shocks. I'm see if I can get the 850 parts bike currently on Craigslist for a song for more needed parts (bodywork, seat, dual disc front end (for my purist 1000), and whatever else I can cannibilize off of it. Then, well, you know how it goes (GSX front end and rear wheel, brakes, etc)
 
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