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GS1000E Rotor Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs79
  • Start date Start date
rotor removal

rotor removal

Hi gs79, sorry my suggestion did not work. Could you not take the bike to a kwickfit or another tyre fitter or garage and ask them to zip it loose with an impact gun ?. If you were closer i would come to your place and bring my compressor and gun. Also national tyres have mobile fitters it might be worth asking what they would charge to undo your bolt. Just a thought.
 
uk gs nut said:
Hi gs79, sorry my suggestion did not work. Could you not take the bike to a kwickfit or another tyre fitter or garage and ask them to zip it loose with an impact gun ?. If you were closer i would come to your place and bring my compressor and gun. Also national tyres have mobile fitters it might be worth asking what they would charge to undo your bolt. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Now where have I heard that suggestion before? :rolleyes:

Could you rent or borrow an electric impact perhaps?
 
I will try a few local garages to see if they can help with an impact gun. I did find that even in gear with rear brake on that the rotor rotated slighty. So is it sufficient when using an impact gun just to have the bike in gear with the rear brake applied.
 
the nut will spin right off with an impact gun,probably just by holding the rotor with your hands.all the spinning torque is directed on the nut so it has less tendency to try and spin the whole motor
 
Brill thanks, Adrian. Just one other question I have purchased a rotor puller which was stated to be for the Suzuki GS1000E 1980 and it is a M16 X1.5 puller approx 4 inches long with a socket square on the end. I have notice that the rotor has some external threads which I would assume are for an extractor, does that mean I have the wrong puller my friend.
 
i would say you have the wrong puller. my 78 1000 has a long bolt that holds the rotor on and the rotor has internal threads which would require your style of puller.
 
Anybody know where I can purchase a 1980 Suzuki GS1000E flywheel puller believe it is a 35mm x 1.5
 
All the GS1000 rotors I have here, have both an internal and an external thread. The M16 x 1.5 puller you have should be correct for the internal thread and should do the job simply by inserting it and tightening up - pushing the rotor off the taper.
 
GregT said:
All the GS1000 rotors I have here, have both an internal and an external thread. The M16 x 1.5 puller you have should be correct for the internal thread and should do the job simply by inserting it and tightening up - pushing the rotor off the taper.
Click to expand...

won't thread in if there is a threaded crank snout sticking out.
80 and up US models are like this.
they need the external pullers...not a pusher(bolt).


ok if the OP has a bolt that hold the rotor on then he can use a pusher or puller.
if the OP has a nut that hold the rotor on he need a puller not a pusher.
 
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Thanks Greg and Blowerbike for your replies, my GS1000 rotor has the retaining bolt so hopefully my newly acquired puller should do the business
 
you have been saying all along that you have a nut on the end,now you are saying its a bolt? if it is a bolt then your removal tool will work fine.
post up a pic so we can all see and clarify your situation
 
Sorry for the confusion, it is definately a bolt retaining the rotor. Here is the latest my friends. I managed to borrow an electric impact gun from a local firm. Managed to get the rotor bolt undone (lots of signs of thread lock on the bolt) and would you believe the rotor popped off at the same time! so didn't the puller. Have included pictures. Found all three of the allen screws loose and the top of their threads destroyed.
GS1000%20rotor.jpg


GS1000%20starter%20clutch%20bolts.jpg


GS1000%20starter%20clutch.jpg
 
Would you suggest that I go for a starter clutch repair kit?. Not sure what I should be checking for on the rollers and pushers, the springs are different lengths
 
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Will do. Which type of loctite do you use on the 3 starter clutch retaining screws and the rotor bolt please?

and do you use any loctite on the rotor taper when refitting the rotor, if so is the type of loctite to be used different for this purpose as compared to the type used for thread lock
 
the rotor should be a very tight fit on the crank, but as you said, it just popped right off. clean it up,and the end of the crank and slide the rotor on, it should grab to a tight fit,enough to get some movement on the crank without even tightening the bolt up. if it doesn't then lap it on to the crank using some fine valve grinding paste until you get a good snug fit on the crank. loctite is not really neccesary unless the crank or rotor surface is damaged,worn or pitted
 
Many thanks, which Loctite grade do you guys use for threadlocking the rotor bolt
 
Blue at least

Once you're done tightening it up, it will not have to come apart for another 4 decades
 
If it ever comes loose again, let me know. I had mine come loose 4 times in one season. I had a local welder tack it together. 50 runs at the track and no problem. I was actually breaking the 3 little bolts. I hope yours holds together for you... And I used red loctite to hold the bolts.
Curt
 
Many thanks for your advice Mr T and Bellucci (Curt), its great to be among friends :)
 
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