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gs1000g mild cafe build

****Try running it up above 6500rpm in 1st, then close the throttle & engine brake decelerate down to no less than 5500 & hammer the throttle on those CV carbs & hold on!!!! If your tires are good sticky high performance quality, it shouldn't take much. The decelerating stance then transferring into to the acceleration squat already gets the front end coming up motion started, & that is the rpm range where the engine roughly makes the most torque, so this makes for some wild acceleration wheelies / power wheelies...This lofts the front end up on my 750 unpredictably!

I'm not one to ask about popping the clutch just right to induce a wheelie, I have no comments on that technique, & don't plan to learn it myself. Maybe on a lighter bike. I like faster racer riding, not so much street bike stunt riding.


****Doing this may be of grave consequence to your general health and well being, as well as to those around you... Practice in a closed area and at your own risk!
 
If that doesn't induce a wheelie, you either have ****ty old hard or highway mileage tires (i.e. rear tire just spins), or your carb jetting is way off...
Or your clutches could be glazed over and the springs are weak so clutch slippage occurs.
 
Lol, i tried a clutch up 2 or 3 times but i was only going 30ish in i think 4th i cant remember wrong rpm and gear haha but i have lofted it up a few times coming through intersections haha. Its kinda scary such a huge bike coming up like that
 
Mine randomly lofts the front end toward the sky when the tire decides it's warmed up enough to hook real well...and yes, it is sometimes quite frightening! Especially when the back tire is spinning and fishtailing, & then the tire suddenly starts to bite while the rear end has drifted sideways.... Avon RoadRiders are overrated in my opinion. I'll go with a 4,000mi life expectancy tire like a Pirelli Sport Demon / Shinko SR741 / Shinko 230 or 5000mi expectancy Battlax BT45V if I want real serious grip from now on. Those Avon's scared me a few too many times.
 
after doing a little, and I mean little research ive found that the vx800 wheel uses the same set up as well.. so on an impulse I bought a rear wheel and rotor combo.. the good is that the vx rear wheel is a 3.5x17 like my 97 kat rear is. and even uses the same tire. so ill be able to use the kat 17 up front with the 4 pot calipers YAY.. the rim its self should drop in but the brake stay and swing arm will have to be clearanced.. I actually think the brake stay will need more work than the swinger tube.. we will see. also I'm almost willing to bet the rear caliper mount will work unmodified.. the good part is that it was only 60 dollars the bad is that I accidentally sent it to my ex's house...
 


Not an exact matchto the kat 17 but the spokes ar that same twisted fat to thin thing lol theres just 2 more haha, aughta look pretty cool when done
 
Cool...jack up the rear shocks a bit and you should be at around 4" of trail, less than stock, sportier steering!

what was the rake of the Kat that the girls came off of vs the stock gs1100g rake?

if you could raise the rear enough to get the head tube / fork angle within 1 or 1.5 degrees of the Katana's spec, you will have a great responsive steering geometry
 
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GS is either 28 or maybe w7. Newer sport bikes 90's & up push the limits 25.5 down to 24, some very recent bikes 23 or 23.5 (too steep, steering damper required).

Ninja 250's I believe we're at 27 which surprised me. Shooting for 26.4 down to low 25's on a GS is a very sporty treatment, but you have to use an online trail calculator to keep the trail in spec. It is far more important than rake. Steepen the rake until you arrive at 3.8"-3.9" trail.
A trail calculator will require front tire diameter (or radius, more precisely is what is actually used), triple clamp offset (need to measure very precisely), & head tube rake angle or castor. Make sure bike I'd on a perfectly level surface or tires are shimmer up to achieve perfect level bore trying to put an angle finder on the fork tube or head tube.
 
Ok so just messing around with the calculators, with the 19 up front my current rake is 25?dead nuts on the upper fork tube. With a trail of 4.49
 




And so it has begun lol the only problem with the swap so far is the rotor diameter is 250 mm compaired to the gs 295 mm. CASH ME OUSIDE HOW BOW DAT
 
Hey Brandon FYI I just picked up an underslung 1989 GSXR750 caliper and sweet looking "lightened" ( cast with lots of holes in the middle to remove material) hanger that fits our 20mm rear axles. The hanger also shares the same bolt pattern as a conventional top mount (not underslung) GS500F rear caliper. Not sure on the GS500F rotor size. Some early gsxr years used 220mm or 240mm rotors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162405733966

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Also I have found shopping the EBC catalog for pad dimensions can yield other pads with the same backing plate that have the friction material at different heights to accommodate slightly different rotor sizes. Look into rotor diameter specs for the GS500 and early GSXR750 and 1000 or 1100. I think you can make something like this work. What I have would work awesome for yours except you would need to weld an underslung brake hanger mount on your swing arm. The GS500E/F might be the nearly bolt-on ticket for yours if they run a 250mm rotor. Mine is definitely going to be used, not looking to get rid of it!
 
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Keep in mind your rake and trail when selecting tire sizes. Basically all the rear tire size does is adds or removes rear ride height, which slightly changes the rake up front. Front tire diameter does this but has the opposite addition or subtraction effect with regards to changing diameters. Also in addition to changing the rake which affects the trail, the smaller tires diameters definitely decrease trail as well without figuring in the rake change incurred by the same factor.

If you get your trail down to 3.95"-4.05" you will have a very nice handling bike. Get it down to 3.85 and you will have a very quick steering very sporty feeling bike, and the bike will feel a lighter weight when you turn, but may feel a little more twitchy at extreme excessive speeds. Adjustable rear shock height is awesome to dial this in
 
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