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GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
Glad to hear you'll be undertaking this project at some point, I hope my documentation of the good, the bad, and the ugly here will help.

yup. :) ill probably use a few tips from this thread. some stuff ill go on previous megasquirt experience.

thanks

Brian
 
In a project of this scope, errors will be made. I think that is apparent by this thread. I look at them as being good that I made them so others will not do so. The ongoing issue I had with the bike when it started was a high idle. This is indicative of a vacuum leak. When I looked over the throttle bodies, vacuum hoses, and boots I could not find one. I did find the MAP sensor was bad, but this was not the cause of the idle problem. Due to the rail leaking by the pressure gauge, I had to remove the TBs again. I've made a change to the fuel parts diagram and uploaded it. basically I went from a pipe thread setup that did not allow for precise alignment of the pressure gauge to a pipe/AN setting that will allow me to tighten the AN fitting and align the gauge as needed.

I had ordered new o-rings for the carb/TB boots a while back, getting two sets so I could do the GSX-G when it had some engine problems. I forgot to install them on this bike, a really dumb move on my part. I found out about this when I pulled the #1 boot and saw there was no o-ring present. #2~4 were all hard and dried up. I found the brand new o-rings still in the parts envelopes.

At this point, I'm waiting for the revised fuel rail parts to get here so I can put it back together and see if this was the cause of the high idle.

This project while frustrating at times has been a good learning experience. In my down time, I have laid out a Microsquirt setup for the GSX-G and am starting to acquire parts for it when I can find them cheap. The main problem with it was the airbox, it was likely designed by the guy that designed the V65 Sabre carburetors after he was fired by H***a. :p I ended up cutting it off since it cannot be removed with the engine in the bike. Having a parts bike gives me a test bed for part fitment and other measurements. Using pod filters frees up enough room for the fuel pump, Microsquirt, new fuse panel, quad coil, and the other electronics such as pump control and wideband O2 control. I've identified the wiring connectors and can make an almost plug & play harness. Once I get this bike operable 100% I will start a new thread for that project.
 
i wasnt knocking your trial and error stuff... ill just be using chrysler and gm sensors for megasquirt cause ive used them before with a megasquirt chrysler turbo project. thats what i meant. :-)
 
I didn't think you were- no problem. I wanted to post an update since I think I have found the main idle problem.
 
Special thanks goes to:
GS1000G Shopper for his detailed trials and tribulations, which gave me a head start on making decisions on how to do my conversion.
ArttuH for his excellent trigger setup, which is the perfect bolt on trigger setup for our application--and saved me time from developing my own, well worth the money!
coombehouse for his base tune, it was a good starting point to develop my own tune off of (and continue to develop).

Rode my bike for 40 miles without issue (VE auto tune running), starts on the first crank, and responds well enough to pull a wheelie.
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Special thanks goes to:
GS1000G Shopper for his detailed trials and tribulations, which gave me a head start on making decisions on how to do my conversion.
ArttuH for his excellent trigger setup, which is the perfect bolt on trigger setup for our application--and saved me time from developing my own, well worth the money!
coombehouse for his base tune, it was a good starting point to develop my own tune off of (and continue to develop).

Rode my bike for 40 miles without issue (VE auto tune running), starts on the first crank, and responds well enough to pull a wheelie.
attachment.php

Please start your own thread and fill it full of pictures :)
 
Another day, another bug solved. My high idle was my fault- I did not replace the boot o-rings when I reinstalled the head. After getting everything back together today, I was rewarded with a normal idle. It's just too hot now to continue work.

Along the way, I've revamped the fuel pressure sensor/gauge fittings to use an AN fitting for easy removal, and I also installed the ST1300 idle adjustment screw/cable. I had to cut the end of it down and re-thread the part where it screws in, but it works great and beats trying to stick a screwdriver in there to turn the screw. I'll update the posts where I mentioned these parts.
 
More good progress today. I used the auto tune function to get the VE table set up, and it's running well enough now to go into 2nd gear down the driveway. I need to get the Bluetooth interface for road tuning. I plan on using the ITB mode, but need to collect some data using Alpha-N while riding under load. I plan on reinstalling the fairing today or tomorrow and then it will be road ready for data logging. I purchased Shadow Dash and the Bluetooth adapter so I can collect the data on my phone via Bluetooth once the adapter gets here.

EDIT
I've re-thought this plan since the Shadow Dash does not offer the auto-tune function. I found a used DRS Armor X7 "rugged tablet" that has a 7" screen for $60, runs on Windows 7, and has Bluetooth so I can use the adapter. It should fit on the tank nicely. These are on eBay for well under $100 shipped. The adapter was a bit of a challenge to sync with my phone, I had to email support but got a quick reply. I had the gender changer backwards and had to power cycle everything and then it synched. I will update after the tablet gets here.
 
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It seems most everything with this project has been a struggle. The X7 tablet I received had no working Bluetooth, but it was a good fit on the tank with rubber pads on the battery ends. I should be able to bungee it down for road data logging & adjustment.

Fortunately the seller was good enough to replace it with no hassle. I got TS installed on it and then it was a battle to get the BT adapter to connect. After a lot of port wrangling, made far more difficult due to a 7" screen, I got it all connected. I was able to use the auto tune feature for a few minutes so I could familiarize myself with it. It was able to redo the VE table to where the bike is running a lot better, notably when warmed up. I'll try and make longer runs in higher gears so it will have a better base to work from, and then I'll log a file so I can eventually use the ITB mode.

UPDATE: Here's a pic of it bungeed to the fuel tank. It's held on at highway speed with no problem:

 
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I just saw a review on the X7 tablet. Amazing price. In that review the claim was it did not have BlueTooth but other adds claim it does? It would seem to be pretty standard nowadays so it is probably broke if it doesn't have it.
 
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Yes, according to the manufacturer it is standard equipment. The first tablet was defective.
 
First auto-tune run went fairly well, left & returned under my own power. The more time I spend on it, the better it runs. Definitely still some power/tuning issues, but I'd say I'm on the final stretch for this project. Once the Alpha-N is sorted well enough, I can datalog and switch to Independent Throttle Body mode.

Next up, the GSX1100G. :)
 
Reviewing my datalogs, it appeared the AFR was not changing. I did some reading and found the BPSX controller I am using is not really a good controller. The company was renamed to APSX and they no longer offer the controller I bought. After doing some research, I ordered an affordable ($75) controller that has good reviews called a Spartan 2. It's also easier to wire. I have updated the table of contents to reflect this and edited O2 sensor mentions throughout the many pages here, still need to update the wiring diagram.
 
Reviewing my datalogs, it appeared the AFR was not changing. I did some reading and found the BPSX controller I am using is not really a good controller. The company was renamed to APSX and they no longer offer the controller I bought. After doing some research, I ordered an affordable ($75) controller that has good reviews called a Spartan 2. It's also easier to wire. I have updated the table of contents to reflect this and edited O2 sensor mentions throughout the many pages here, still need to update the wiring diagram.


Can you post any of your data?
 
Not here. It is in proprietary MSL format and over 2MB in size, and the forum is picky about what can be attached.
 
The MSL files are viewed in something called MegaLog Viewer and must scroll for all data to be seen, similar to a video file. A screenshot is not conducive to this type of file.
 
The MSL files are viewed in something called MegaLog Viewer and must scroll for all data to be seen, similar to a video file. A screenshot is not conducive to this type of file.

Well we can only hope you will figure out how to do a screen shot eventually.
Here is an example from the Innovate Logging Software. It is a screenshot imported into Powerpoint for adding annotations.
AFR_exampel.jpg
 
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Taking/putting up screenshots is not the problem (see below), there is nothing to "figure out" to do that. Here's the situation:
My last datalog covers about 18 minutes of riding, as noted it is about 2MB in size. The latter factor alone makes it difficult to do much with on a limited speed Internet connection that I'm blessed with using.

I could put up 6,108 screen shots- that is how many frames there are from my most recent datalog. I doubt the forum admin would appreciate 6K more posts in this thread. ;) Doing that is like critiquing a film after watching a handful of frames vs watching the film.

The proper venue for that type of file is the MS Extra forum. MSL and tune files (MSQ) can be uploaded and members use MegaLog Viewer to look them over. I'm not to the point where I need to have these reviewed by others yet, I still have tuning to perform. I choose not to waste their time until something comes along I cannot figure out.

Attached is frame 3,050, about halfway through the ride. The white line is RPM, the red MAP, the yellow AFR, and the green head (coolant) temperature. The AFR varied in the first few seconds of running from about 12 to 13 and then remained around 14.6~14.8 (average of 14.7) the remainder of the logging regardless of what the engine was doing. There is an adjustable averaging lag in the software, however based upon other datalogs I've reviewed I should see more variation than what was present. This lead me to believe the wideband controller and/or sensor was a problem. I read a detailed posting about the BPSX controller on the DIY EFI forum and they pointed out a problem of inconsistency existing in original and replacement controllers. I'm waiting on the Spartan2 controller to get here for further testing.

graph01.jpg
 
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