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GS1100 performance rebuild questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter woodman
  • Start date Start date
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woodman

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What is the max overbore on a street stock 16 valve motor you would advise ? Should I get the crank welded & rebuilt ? This is a stock 80 1100E model with 17,000 miles and will remain stock except 4-1 V&H pipe & 36mm 1150 carbs at most with the 10.25 rebuild pistons. No drag racing except maybe some roll on stuff. Dont want a racer just a good running near stocker. This is just a heallthy near resto stocker. Thanks for any advice. I have a spare 82 motor & would redo it and keep the original one
 
2 main things are clutch & crank. "82" or "83" model left end of crank & matching rotor, straight cut primary gear on crank, weld crank. Good clutch basket (hub) w/ straight cut gear, heavy springs, heavy backing plate & good rivets. 1148 pistons @ 10 to 1 compression, maybe a set "83" cams, or after mkt drop in's, set cams lobe centers @ 104 int. & 107 ex. Just my opinion, & what I would do if doing it again.
 
The max bore you can go on stock 1100 sleeves is 75mm which is an 1166. I would do the 1166 piston kit, Have the crank welded by either John Pearson at Pearson Racing or Stan Gardner at GRC. The ONLY 2 places in the country I would let touch one of my cranks. For what YOU are doing, you won't need the straight cut gears or the big left end. Next, since you are NOT building a DRAG motor would be 750 oil pump gears, a rebuild kit on the clutch hub with the heavy backing plate & springs, APE clutch hub nut, APE case & cylinder studs, APE manual cam chain tensioner, Tsubaki cam chain, oil cooler, .348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams, adjustable cam sprockets, GOOD ignition system with coils & wires, & a top end oiler wouldn't hurt. For the head I would do a "radiused" valve job with new seals & springs for those cams & a clean up & blending of the ports to the valve seats. This combo should make between 120 & 130 HP at the rear wheel if you put some better carbs on it than the stock 1150 carbs. WITH the 1150 carbs probably only 115-120 at the wheel. I have LOTS of parts & am a dealer for all the parts you would need to do the build. Let me know if I can help, Ray.
 
.348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams,
Click to expand...

0.340's are a little more docile , but the .348 are supposed to be perfectly street-able. With the 0.340's I getting about 32 mpg, so I assume going to the .348/.355 it would drop further. Were talking about if you need to dip under 10 sec in the quarter mile here :eek:

The head work is very important as Ray suggests. :rolleyes:

more back ground info:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631
 
Who would use reccommend for the machine work, APE ? Do they block plate hone them ? My 80 spun the rotor on the crank, Im going to fix that with permatex green sleeve & bearing retainer and was thinking of using the good rotor off the 82. The 82 motor is froze so I need to check it out and see if its usable. Ill get back to you when Im ready. Thanks very much for the advice
 
The "just buy a new bike "theory is fine unless youre 65 with a bad back and cant ride something made for a 20 year old kid for more then 5 minutes. Funny the people that fit them cant afford the bike or insurance and the people who can cant ride them. Hayabusas dont fit me, Ive tried them ! I have a pretty stout sleeved 1105 Superbike Mike built KZ to tie me over that was built in 76.
 
Why is it that they show 2 different rotor puller sizes for GS1100s. My 80 measures 35mm. Did they change sizes on later ones ?
 
There are big end cranks and small end cranks, The went big sometime in 82.
 
Well both my untouched original 80 and my 82 with a build date of 2/82 measure 35mm. Im confused !
 
The big end crank really got introduced in 83. There are a few 82s with it at the end of the building year.
 
I was talking about the threads on the rotor that the puller screws on to. I thought they were saying theres 2 different pullers. I know about the crank snouts, sorry
 
The early 1100's had problems with the left end of the crank. They would break or the rotor would come loose & mutilate the tapered fitment between the rotor & the crank. Mine came loose after 30,00 mi. On the later models, Suzuki fixed it with a bigger left end with a different taper for the rotor. The clutch baskets (hubs) gave trouble because of the helicle cut gear, pushing great pressure sideways on the on the basket. This pressure would pull the gear & backing plate off the the rivets, causing big problems, even on stock bikes. Extra HP will require much stronger clutch hub. And the left end of the crank needs fixing, even for a stock eng. being as you are going to have the crank in the shop anyway. Just my opinion!!!
 
The shaft drive and chain drive 1100s have different pullers. Make sure you get the one for the 1100&1150.
 
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