Hello all. So after receiving replacement rocker arm that broke I was getting ready to install the intake cam shaft when I noticed that a inner link on timing chain was damaged. I see that you have remove engine and split the cases, remove crankshaft to replace the timing chain.This a real bummer. I have never done this kind of job before but I will find a way. I have no other choice. Maybe I can find older retired person like me in the valley to help me with this winter to be project. Let the fun begin.
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GS1100E bad timing chain replacement
- Thread starter alhntr
- Start date
Rijko
Forum Sage
correct, no need to split the cases.
Just break the old chain, connect the new chain to the old one and pull through.
Rijko
Forum Sage
yes, correct...
So I found this at MikesXS/Z1 enterprises Cam Chain - EK 219H - Endless - GS750 - GS1000 - GS1100 - 120 Link and get the master link with it. Here is the response from Z1.
We appreciate you reaching out. The endless chain is technically not meant to be broken and I am not aware of any special tool to re-rivet that chain, that chain would be a good choice if you did have the case split but more than likely not otherwise. I think there was one other customer in the past couple of years that was trying to do a similar thing but on a different bike, of course. Unfortunately, I never heard back from him about the outcome so I am not sure how it went or if he was ever successful. If that is the case then why do they offer the master link.
We appreciate you reaching out. The endless chain is technically not meant to be broken and I am not aware of any special tool to re-rivet that chain, that chain would be a good choice if you did have the case split but more than likely not otherwise. I think there was one other customer in the past couple of years that was trying to do a similar thing but on a different bike, of course. Unfortunately, I never heard back from him about the outcome so I am not sure how it went or if he was ever successful. If that is the case then why do they offer the master link.
Replacing the cam chain with one which has a master link is a fairly easy undertaking. Ideally, you need the proper tool to peen over the soft ends of the master link pins, but two hammers do the job. Hammer one is a 2-pounder, hammer two is a much smaller one, about half a pound.
Use hammer 1 as an anvil and hammer 2 as the tool. Just make sure the master link plate is properly in place and don't whack the pins too fiercely. You just want the pin ends to deform enough to securely fasten the plate, and not smash out of shape.
Cam chain replacement of this type was a commonplace exercise years ago.
I had no trouble finding a camchain of this type when I did my 850 relatively recently - there are still plenty around.
What you can do is buy a couple of spare master links and use them for practice to get the feel of doing it right.
Use hammer 1 as an anvil and hammer 2 as the tool. Just make sure the master link plate is properly in place and don't whack the pins too fiercely. You just want the pin ends to deform enough to securely fasten the plate, and not smash out of shape.
Cam chain replacement of this type was a commonplace exercise years ago.
I had no trouble finding a camchain of this type when I did my 850 relatively recently - there are still plenty around.
What you can do is buy a couple of spare master links and use them for practice to get the feel of doing it right.
KiwiAlfa156
Forum Mentor
It is as Grimly says. The master link is a rivet type. Remove the camshafts and use a chain-breaker or in a pinch just grind the pins off one of the links with an angle grinder - the chain has enough slack in it to get it far enough away for the the cam box; but put a cloth over the open head and grind so the sparks aren't going anywhere where the can damage anything (wet rags help protect for sparks). The new chain is endless so cut one link out to open it. Use the new master link without the side plate fitted or some suitable wire twisted into a loop though the pin holes (if your worried about the unsecured joining link falling off - for me it never has) to join the cut ends of the old and new cam chains. Be careful if using wire that it isn't going to foul anything as it passes around the crank. Put a loop of wire through the free end of the new chain to prevent it from inadvertently falling into the chain tunnel.
Then carefully wind the crank to draw the new chain down into the chain tunnel while gently pulling the slack out of the old chain that's coming out of the motor. Once the old chain is out disconnect it from the new. Again a length of suitable wire looped through the open pin hole is good insurance against the chain end disappearing into the abyss. Or if you used the new master link you can just link the two ends together. The chain guides and being gentle mean that there is very little lateral force on the chain and the chances of the open master link going sideways and coming off are slim. But never, say never.
To rivet the chain push the side plate on the master link pins using poly grips. The side plate is an interference fit on the pins (which is why I don't fit it when winding the new chain through). I use a club hammer as an anvil and the ballpein of an engineers hammer to round over the pins. All the other links in the chain are riveted and master.
It's not as difficult as it sounds. I've done it a few times and it was standard practice back in the day.
Here's a 219FTS cam chain I shortened to fit my GSX750S using a riveted master link.
Then carefully wind the crank to draw the new chain down into the chain tunnel while gently pulling the slack out of the old chain that's coming out of the motor. Once the old chain is out disconnect it from the new. Again a length of suitable wire looped through the open pin hole is good insurance against the chain end disappearing into the abyss. Or if you used the new master link you can just link the two ends together. The chain guides and being gentle mean that there is very little lateral force on the chain and the chances of the open master link going sideways and coming off are slim. But never, say never.
To rivet the chain push the side plate on the master link pins using poly grips. The side plate is an interference fit on the pins (which is why I don't fit it when winding the new chain through). I use a club hammer as an anvil and the ballpein of an engineers hammer to round over the pins. All the other links in the chain are riveted and master.
It's not as difficult as it sounds. I've done it a few times and it was standard practice back in the day.
Here's a 219FTS cam chain I shortened to fit my GSX750S using a riveted master link.
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KiwiAlfa156
Forum Mentor
Interesting that MikesXS/Z1 offered 219H. I've taken a photo of the DID catalog which has all the chain specs. 219H is the lightest duty and lightest weight of the 219 range.
The rivet link, available for a couple of bucks.
The catalog says not to use a connecting link. A connecting link is the clip type. The rivet link makes the chain endless again.
The rivet link, available for a couple of bucks.
The catalog says not to use a connecting link. A connecting link is the clip type. The rivet link makes the chain endless again.
No. In my experience there's not enough room or slack in the chain to do it with cams still in place. Unless you've got suspect threads in the head removing the cams isn't a problem.
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