GS1100E fork - 4 position damping force adjusters tough to turn - concerning?

[oldGSfan]

The 4 position 'damping force adjuster' knobs are pretty tight on my forks. There's no sense of a detent position either. I am wondering if there is gunk in there that can and should be cleaned out, and if so, is there a procedure. Looks like it needs a spanner bit of some size, and who knows what's inside that's replaceable to fix the issue. I hit it with some WD40 but no change.

Any help appreciated. My worry is if some grit or gunk got in there somehow.

 

[Rob S.]

I'm pretty sure those plastic knobs are hard to replace.

 

[oldGSfan]

Yeah I did some searching and most discussions were about the plastic knobs and not the internal workings.

I'm pretty sure those plastic knobs are hard to replace.

 

[salty_monk]

Yeah I made some of my own out of aluminum stock (copying the one I had that was about to fall apart to make one for the other side).

I can't remember if there is a detent. Take the nobs off & give them a good clean out & try twisting with something else... They do ease off but from memory they are always a bit stiff. Once you've set them I guess you generally don't need to mess with them again.

 

[oldGSfan]

OK thanks, I don't want to shred the plastic by twisting it around too much, thought of doing what you said, probably vice grips with a heavy cloth to protet the metal. Sounds like the most I should do.

Yeah I made some of my own out of aluminum stock (copying the one I had that was about to fall apart to make one for the other side).

I can't remember if there is a detent. Take the nobs off & give them a good clean out & try twisting with something else... They do ease off but from memory they are always a bit stiff. Once you've set them I guess you generally don't need to mess with them again.

 

[salty_monk]

Yep, that's what I did. The D shaped shaft is pretty hard material.

What happens with the knobs is that they get forced because they are tight, then the metal spring plate falls out, the plastic then stretches more & they fall off.

You may find that when you take yours off the spring plate is missing or the knob is cracked beside the flat. That in turn means that you are now basically twisting the plastic rather than the force being transferred into the shaft.

In short you may find the problem is knackered knobs rather than an overly stiff shaft (oo err missus :lol: )

You may find replacements the D is a pretty standard for ovens & the like but I couldn't find any the right size.

 

[Guest]

The plastic knobs on mine were toast when I got it, I made new ones from brass stock. I also took the adjuster apart to clean it out and solder the #4 hole completely shut. You need a wrench with two nibs to engage the two slots in the nut that holds the adjuster tube in place. After that nut is out the whole assembly pulls out with no issues. There is an o-ring in there that could need replacement but nothing else is a wear part. If you want I can post pics of the brass knobs I made and the wrench I made to get the nut out.


Mark

 

[oldGSfan]

OK that's helpful, thanks Mark. My plastic knobs are fine, I will not need to replace them. I figure I can keep them as cosmetic and adjust with a tiny vice grip because I've rotated them that way w/o damage, just remove the knob to do it.

Why solder #4 hole, is that a known mod? What does it help?

I would like to see the tool. I'm wondering if a socket can be cut down with an angle grinder.

The plastic knobs on mine were toast when I got it, I made new ones from brass stock. I also took the adjuster apart to clean it out and solder the #4 hole completely shut. You need a wrench with two nibs to engage the two slots in the nut that holds the adjuster tube in place. After that nut is out the whole assembly pulls out with no issues. There is an o-ring in there that could need replacement but nothing else is a wear part. If you want I can post pics of the brass knobs I made and the wrench I made to get the nut out.


Mark

 

[Guest]

OK that's helpful, thanks Mark. My plastic knobs are fine, I will not need to replace them. I figure I can keep them as cosmetic and adjust with a tiny vice grip because I've rotated them that way w/o damage, just remove the knob to do it.

Once you have them set you are unlikely to touch them for ages. It is very much a set and forget type of thing.

Why solder #4 hole, is that a known mod? What does it help?

The biggest problem with damper rod forks is getting enough rebound damping. I soldered the hole to have a max setting. I never used it, though, and am on #2 setting (I think, it has been years since they were set).

I would like to see the tool. I'm wondering if a socket can be cut down with an angle grinder.

A deep socket could likely be modified to work. Mine is made from a piece of 4140 round bar because that was on hand when I made it.

The adjusters:

Mark