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GS1100E gauge lights no worko

  • Thread starter Thread starter Flaming Chainsaws
  • Start date Start date
F

Flaming Chainsaws

Guest
Actually, it half works. I am stumped :confused:.

The bike is a 1983 Suzuki GS1100E.

I'll explain this as best as I can.

The ground wire from the fuse box leads to the starter solenoid's right mounting bolt. Then another ground wire from the starter solenoid's right bolt leads to the negative battery post.

With the above setup, I can crank the bike over but only the hi-beam light works on the gauge cluster. Nothing else.

If I disconnect that ground wire from the negative battery post, the bike will not crank over (makes sense) but now only the neutral light works. Hi-beam no longer works. What the hell?

What's your take? I can get pictures if needed.
 
IMAG0249.jpg


This is off my 83 E hasn't been touched electric wise.

Have three wires off of the solenoid. y/g wire leads to a bullet connection in a small bundle just by front of battery box. Black is power for the starter. Red is main line to battery +.

Don't have any grounds from the fuse box to the solenoid or from solenoid to battery -


Nic
 
Yeah, mine is just like that but can you take a look at the starter solenoid's right mounting bolt? Are there any wires connected to that? Can you trace them for me if they are?
 
no grounds on right mount bolt. On the left mount there is a ground wire that comes off the main harness (black wire w/thin white stripe).



Branches off the main harness almost directly above the solenoid area.

Nic
 
niclpnut said:
no grounds on right mount bolt. On the left mount there is a ground wire that comes off the main harness (black wire w/thin white stripe).



Branches off the main harness almost directly above the solenoid area.

Nic
Click to expand...
I see.... So someone must have been messing around with the electricals here...

I'm going to take a guess and say that the fuse box should not ground on the starter solenoids bolt but some where else. What am I talking about? Why does the location matter? Man! I hate electricals SOOOO much lol.

I'll be back with pics and info :).
 
It shouldn't really matter. As long as the ground is in contact with bare metal.

In fact, the ground on mine coming out of the main harness to the left mounting bolt may very well be the fuse box ground. It's still taped and wrapped in the main harness but seems to be in the routed the same as the other lines.

After looking at the wiring diagram, the fuse box ground black/white does eventually ground at the solenoid mount bolt (left one although it doesn't really matter which.

Nic
 
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OK, I'm back with pictures.

This here was the original setup. The top wire comes from the main wiring harness. The wire on the bottom comes from the R/R. And the last wire is ground for the starter solenoid which connects to negative battery post.
DSCN4135.jpg


I decided to change things up a bit. The R/R's ground is now connected to the negative battery post. The wire from the main harness is now connected to the left starter solenoid bolt and then there is another wire from the main harness which is also connected there.
DSCN4141.jpg


DSCN4140.jpg


Bad pic but you can see it. Only the high beam works and headlight works.
DSCN4142.jpg
 
Now here's the weird part. See that ground wire there? The bottom one.
DSCN4141.jpg


If I remove that ground, then the headlight turns off and the hi-beam light no longer works. But in return, the neutral light now turns on.

If I connect the ground wire back, the neutral light turns off and then the headlight and hi-beam light turns back on. WTF???


I'll also mention that no other lights or electronics work. Tail/brake/license plate light does not work although the bulbs are good. Turn signals do not work but bulbs are good. Only the neutral and hi-beam light work on gauge cluster. Starter works and I have good spark. Why is everything else dead? I triple checked and the wires are connected correctly.
 
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Someone once posted that those panel lights are tied into the oil pres switch. Check that funky wire clip and then maybe the light control box connectors under the gas tank.
 
bonanzadave said:
Someone once posted that those panel lights are tied into the oil pres switch. Check that funky wire clip and then maybe the light control box connectors under the gas tank.
Click to expand...
Oil pressure switch? Where is that? If that's the thing that's under the carbs, it's gone now. Been replaced with a top end oiler block.

I will check those boxes under the gas tank.
 
bonanzadave said:
What happened to the wire that went to it ? Better sit down and give the wire diagram a good going over.....:-k.
Click to expand...
There is no wire on the oil pressure switch when I replaced it with my top end oiler.
 
I think I found out the problem to why none of my lights work except for the headlight and hi-beam.

This is pulled out straight from the Hayne's GSX/GS1000, 1100 & 1150 4-Valve Fours manual.

The below is on page 174, section 15, paragraph 2.
The check panel is dependant on its supply from the oil pressure switch. If this fails, the check panel will not operate normally.
Click to expand...
Now refer to page 54 and look at the last picture, 4.7 c.
DSCN4231.jpg


And now compare that same picture to my oil pressure/temp switch.
DSCN4223.jpg


DSCN4226.jpg


DSCN4227.jpg


DSCN4228.jpg



With the above oil pressure switch, I cannot plug any electrical wire into it. Same thing for my top end oiler. This must be my problem right?
 
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bonanzadave said:
What happened to the wire that went to it ? Better sit down and give the wire diagram a good going over.....:-k.
Click to expand...

I found the green/yellow wire (oil pressure). I also found the pink wire (oil temp).
DSCN4234.jpg


I plugged the gr/y to the negative and nothing happened. Then I plugged the gr/y into positive and the oil light lit up.
DSCN4235.jpg


Tried the above with the pink wire. Negative did nothing but when I plugged it into positive, the oil temp gauge started twitching. The exact same thing happened with the fuel gauge when I tried it.



So it seems that my electrical problem is because I am missing the oil pressure switch. I want to keep my top end oiler... What do you have to say?
 
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