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Gs1100E RR replaced with Cycle Electric 600 Series regulator

niclpnut

niclpnut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Finally got my mits on a 600 series regulator. It is the CE-601:

IMAG0234.jpg


It's obviously MUCH larger than the oem version. Only feasible place I could thing to mount it was on the front of the battery box. It can't go under the battery box like the shafties.

IMAG0235.jpg


It fired right up and I'm getting a steady 13.5 v at idle, and 14.26 with no movement 4-5k rpm.

There were 5 wires on the regulator. the wires that connect to the the stator had a 3 prong connector. I snipped that off and replaced with bullets to hook to the Ricks stator leads. The 4th wire was clearly labeled to connect to the fuse panel/hot wire. I routed it to the + battery terminal with an inline 30 amp blade fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse installed. The last wire was the ground and is connected to the - battery terminal.

The problem I'm having is that at right around 4.5k rmp my gauges go funny. I'm holding at 14.26v at the battery, but the dash lights (particularly the turn signals) go on and my fuel guage jumps.

What should I look for? I double checked all the grounds, and they all look ok.


Nic
 
Well, I guess taking a step away from things does help as I found the problem...

It was a ground as I thought it had to be. Was actually the ground coming from the harness that connects to the battery box.



Holy... It hasn't idled or sounded this smooth in a long time...:D


Nic
 
Good to know the charging system is under control, isn't it?

Did you have to fabricate any new bracketry, or is there enough metal in the battery box for new mounting holes? This is the first I've heard of a Cycle Electric regulator on an E.
 
Connect the ground direct to the battery & the frame for good measure...

You'll need more than a 15amp fuse... I don't understand 100% why but with the Mosfet RR's I blew a 20 Amp & had to go up to a 30 amp. I've heard of others using 20 & 25A fuses ok though.

Been using a 30A on 2 bikes for a year plus now. It's only in the wire from RR to battery, the main system fuse in the wiring harness is still 15A.
 
salty_monk said:
Connect the ground direct to the battery & the frame for good measure...

You'll need more than a 15amp fuse... I don't understand 100% why but with the Mosfet RR's I blew a 20 Amp & had to go up to a 30 amp. I've heard of others using 20 & 25A fuses ok though.

Been using a 30A on 2 bikes for a year plus now. It's only in the wire from RR to battery, the main system fuse in the wiring harness is still 15A.
Click to expand...
I put a 25A on mine when I had to install the R/R to battery line just recently, no problems. Duaneage Honda R/R unit. Main shall remain at 15A.
 
Interesting that the cycle electric is putting out 13.5v at idle, I think Nessism gets 14v even at idle with his compufire unit. :)
 
salty_monk said:
Connect the ground direct to the battery & the frame for good measure...

You'll need more than a 15amp fuse... I don't understand 100% why but with the Mosfet RR's I blew a 20 Amp & had to go up to a 30 amp. I've heard of others using 20 & 25A fuses ok though.

Been using a 30A on 2 bikes for a year plus now. It's only in the wire from RR to battery, the main system fuse in the wiring harness is still 15A.
Click to expand...

The Cycle Electric on my 1000G is only fused for 15A. Almost for a year now. A few thousand miles, I'd guess.
 
I think the battery I have installed now is the culprit and is hindering the full voltage potential. It's been drained pretty low when the stator and then the RR went out, so it's a bit week and doesn't want to hold a charge for long. Holding out till payday for a new battery. As is I'm pretty happy and for $20 for a used harley regulator...I'm not complaining.

Past 2500 rpm however it holds a steady steady over 14k with no variance which is nice.

As far as mounting, I fab'd a mounting bracket and welded it to the battery box. The hole spacing on the CE RR is wider than the battery box. Couple bolts and washers and its held in place between the rear of the engine case and the battery, with about 3/4" of space.

Wasn't sure exactly what size fuse I'd need. After reading the RR install on basscliff's site I figured I'd start with a 15 and work up from there if needed. So far after 200 miles, it seems to be ok.

Nic
 
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$20 - you did good :)

What Harley does it come off?? I thought they were only aftermarket (or were you just ultra lucky?).
 
Not after market. Seems Harley uses CE as oem for quite a few harleys.

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/ has a table that cross references the part with cycle electric part number, oem part number and the year and model bike they are used for:

P CE-601 74540-01 2001-2006 Softail
R CE-601-07 74540-07 2007 Softail
T CE-601-08 74540-08 2008-2010 Softail
O CE-602 74631-04 2004-2005 All Dyna Models
S CE-602-06 74631-06 2006-2007 All Dyna Models
T CE-602-08 74631-08 2008-2010 All Dyna Models
P CE-603 N/A Replacement regulator for CE-61A Kit
P CE-604 N/A Replacement regulator for CE-62A Kit
P CE-604NB N/A For use with no battery and 38 amp three phase stator. Battery eliminator needed
T CE-606 74505-06 2006-2008 All FLTs, FLHs
T CE-607 2009-2011 All FLTs, FLHs

Mine came off an 02 Softail.

Nic
 
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niclpnut said:
Not after market. Seems Harley uses CE as oem for quite a few harleys.

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/ has a table that cross references the part with cycle electric part number, oem part number and the year and model bike they are used for:

P CE-601 74540-01 2001-2006 Softail
R CE-601-07 74540-07 2007 Softail
T CE-601-08 74540-08 2008-2010 Softail
O CE-602 74631-04 2004-2005 All Dyna Models
S CE-602-06 74631-06 2006-2007 All Dyna Models
T CE-602-08 74631-08 2008-2010 All Dyna Models
P CE-603 N/A Replacement regulator for CE-61A Kit
P CE-604 N/A Replacement regulator for CE-62A Kit
P CE-604NB N/A For use with no battery and 38 amp three phase stator. Battery eliminator needed
T CE-606 74505-06 2006-2008 All FLTs, FLHs
T CE-607 2009-2011 All FLTs, FLHs

Mine came off an 02 Softail.

Nic
Click to expand...

Are you sure HD install SERIES CE's from the factory?

Does yours have a CE part number?
 
I'm not certain.

The regulator I have was removed from an all stock harley and is stamped with both the OEM # and the CE #.

Genuine harley part? Don't know...I have never owned or worked on a harley. Can't even look up part numbers unless you buy a catalog.

Sure they out source parts as much as any other company.

Nic
 
niclpnut said:
I'm not certain.

The regulator I have was removed from an all stock harley and is stamped with both the OEM # and the CE #.

Genuine harley part? Don't know...I have never owned or worked on a harley. Can't even look up part numbers unless you buy a catalog.

Sure they out source parts as much as any other company.

Nic
Click to expand...

If it has both numbers on it then that is a pretty good indication :clap::clap:
 
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