GS1100EZ - 40hp for $1,000?

[blowerbike]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

 

[ozman]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

yup your on the mark there blower

 

[CivilRock]

the op also wanted to spend a grand for 40 hp...
nope...ain't gonna happen..
a grand won't get much unless you buy used and do the work yourself.
that's why i suggested cams and carbs(used) to get near half of the hp he wanted.

I'm willing to do the work myself. Actually, I'd rather do the work myself. I like to learn, even if it means making some mistakes along the way.

Maybe I should state how this bike will be ridden? 99% street. Maybe one time per summer on the drag strip for fun. I just want to play with the bike, tinker around with it, etc. It would be too easy just to hand it over to a builder and throw a bunch of cash at it. I want to just plan out my attack, and the order it should happen.

I don't think straight cut gears are going to be necessary from the sounds of it.

40HP $1,000 ----- I think this is a NO. Maybe $1500?

pre-power work
Welded crank: $150 at a local engine builder?
Welded clutch basket: by the looks of it, I can do this myself.


1168 pistons, 348 cams, springs - $1104 gszone?
75mm bore: $150?
used 750 36 carbs: $150?

Ok, so I'm already up to $1554.
Does that 1168 kit from gszone come with the head gasket?

We'll have to see what I can dig up for having work done locally.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[blowerbike]

factory carbs won't make the biggest #'s
the rs miks are the way to go.
also the basket job is not as easy as you may think.
the carbs and cams i recommended would need to be tuned by an experienced tuner unless you have many days/months/years to learn the trade.
IMO
i'd stay with the stock pistons and head...work with what you have.
also the crank will be fine for the 20 ish hp i recommend.
the basket has to be done though.
understand your bike only makes 89hp at the rear wheel stock.
any other #'s you see posted is at the crank and totally useless info.
i'm thinking you can get 115 give or take a couple hp with the parts and tuning i mentioned.
now if you want 140-150hp at the rear wheel be ready to spend 3500.00 and up to get it.
probably over 4 grand.

 

[gearhead13]

The crank needs to be welded by someone who knows GS cranks. It has to be checked for proper indexing before welding. You also have a small taper crank that is known to spin rotors off.
HD DIY clutch basket kits cost $190 IIRC from APE.

 

[CivilRock]

factory carbs won't make the biggest #'s
the rs miks are the way to go.
also the basket job is not as easy as you may think.
the carbs and cams i recommended would need to be tuned by an experienced tuner unless you have many days/months/years to learn the trade.
IMO
i'd stay with the stock pistons and head...work with what you have.
also the crank will be fine for the 20 ish hp i recommend.
the basket has to be done though.
understand your bike only makes 89hp at the rear wheel stock.
any other #'s you see posted is at the crank and totally useless info.
i'm thinking you can get 115 give or take a couple hp with the parts and tuning i mentioned.
now if you want 140-150hp at the rear wheel be ready to spend 3500.00 and up to get it.
probably over 4 grand.

I guess the first step will be getting it ready to handle more power. Then maybe next summer I'll go for the next stage. 89hp is probably right. So you think carbs and cams are the biggest bang for the buck? I've always liked the saying "there's no replacement for displacement" That seems to make me lean for pistons 2nd, after welding the crank.

I spent weeks and weeks getting this bike running right. I don't know why it was so far off with just the different pipes, but I know how frustrating it is to tune the carbs. I'd probably test it about 20 times and then hand it over to someone who knows what they're doing.

I think this is where I stopped planning last time. $4,000 on a $500 bike doesn't make sense to me. I like to say this is my $500 bike, because I've bought it twice for $500.

2004 paid $500. It was purple and didn't run.
2006 I got it running, and put about $2500 into it. 1150 forks, GSXR1100 swingarm, wheels, brakes. SV650 rotors, black paint, and a bunch of odds and ends.
2009 Sold it for $1900 on the condition I was the first one to buy it back if he got sick of it.
2010 bought it back for $450 slightly crashed. +150 to fix crash damage. Now has a "reconstructed" title. (he got $2700 and the bike from insurance).

I guess I have about $1700 into the bike.

 

[blowerbike]

to weld the crank takes a full disassemble/reassembly...
huge undertaking plus while it's apart you get the trans back cut and a new cam chain and maybe new seals....it's never ending.
used cams and 34/36mm RS miks and a HD clutch basket will get you some power for a grand give or take.
it is what it is...
you would be better off to save your cash and find a trustworthy person selling a hot rod engine at half value.
hell an 1150 engine and a set of 36 RS carbs will make you thing you have a much larger engine.
add a set of .340 webs to the 1150 engine and you will have a handful.
i had the combo mentioned running 9.90's on a heavy chassis and no air shifter/no bars.
same engine went into a small tire drag bike with a heavy rider and ran 9.50's.
1150 engines are amazing when tuned right with stock piston's and head.
when you have no money like me years ago...you work with what you have and tune tune tune...sometimes you go slower till figure out what the engine likes.
my bikes was quicker than others that had pistons and head work.
they had money to pay a shop to do the work...i didn't.
so there you have it......

 

[CivilRock]

you would be better off to save your cash and find a trustworthy person selling a hot rod engine at half value.

I think this could be the kind of deal that I'm looking for. "trustworthy" would be a tough qualification.

my bikes was quicker than others that had pistons and head work.
they had money to pay a shop to do the work...i didn't.
so there you have it......

That's hero's work.

-Kevin

 

[blowerbike]

keep in mind the 1150 engine option.
if you was to happen across one then you have your silver engine that is worth 600ish...there is some offset.
the 1150 engine with cams and carbs will shock you and not break your wallet and have very good reliability.

 

[gearhead13]

I think this could be the kind of deal that I'm looking for. "trustworthy" would be a tough qualification.

-Kevin

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[rapidray]

Keep in mind that you could always pick up an 83 1100 or 84-86 1150 motor, both of which have factory welded cranks & will handle 160 hp effortlessly, & just keep riding your bike as is while you take your time to build a motor as your finances allow. You can also be upgrading your suspension & brakes while you are building the spare engine. Ray.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

The crank in your pics don't seem to be welded. You can see a few welds on this crank to get an idea of where they are welded at.

If you or anyone is needing a nice welded crank small tapered left end,this one in the attachment is for sale minus the starter clutch and rotor. It came out of a good running 1327 street motor and was never ran with a wheelie bar, slick, or extended swing arm. Index was checked and is straight. Have a couple more pics if needed.PM me if any questions,

 

[Montanaman]

For a street bike he shouldn't have to weld the crank just for the big bore kit / Dynojet kit, should he ?

I haven't opened up my '83 yet, so I'm no expert, but if the GS responds the same or better than the Kawi engines, if he bumps up the compression, increases the displacement, and Dynojet tunes the carbs, with the pipe he has that he should be pushing maybe another 20 hp at the wheel, with nice, premium fuel from the pump street manners. The GS is strong enough to handle another 20hp, isn't it without breaking ?

 

[rapidray]

For a street bike he shouldn't have to weld the crank just for the big bore kit / Dynojet kit, should he ?

I haven't opened up my '83 yet, so I'm no expert, but if the GS responds the same or better than the Kawi engines, if he bumps up the compression, increases the displacement, and Dynojet tunes the carbs, with the pipe he has that he should be pushing maybe another 20 hp at the wheel, with nice, premium fuel from the pump street manners. The GS is strong enough to handle another 20hp, isn't it without breaking ?

It is EASY to twist a non welded GS crank in just a STOCK motor. It used to happen all the time in the early 80s. A welded crank is a MUST for ANY modifications to a roller bearing 1100 engine. Your 83 has a welded crank. Ray.

 

[jimb12]

It is EASY to twist a non welded GS crank in just a STOCK motor.

Very true. When I bought my GS1100 it was stock except for a VHR pipe, and the crank was twisted (1982 EZ model).

 

[CivilRock]

I'm just now re-reading this whole thread. I think I like the idea of buying an 1150 motor and tweaking that. Both "Blower Bike" and "RapidRay" make a lot of sense with the spare motor idea.

I just scratched out some numbers with ballpark figures for comparison. I don't know how much a guy could buy an 1150 motor for?

Build 1100
$700 RS36 carbs
$400 .340 webs
$550 1168cc kit
$150 75mm Bore
$300 Welded Crank
$300 Head work, porting
$300 Welded Clutch Basket
$2700

Vs Buy 1150
$700 RS36 carbs
$400 .340 webs
$1000 1150 motor
$2100

From what Blowerbike says (sorry I don't know your real name), this 1150 combo produces a sub-10 second bike? That's gotta be better than what my 1170cc plans were going to do, for less. What do you guys think these two different paths would net for HP?

If I can get $600 for a stock 1048cc "1100EZ" motor, what should I pay for a stock 1150 motor? is $1,000 ballpark? I suppose that's an open ended question. I'll just have to watch craigslist and see if I can find a steal.

-Kevin

 

[rapidray]

Just so you know, you will have better luck buying an 1150 from Canada as 1150 motors usually go for 1500 or so. The cases alone are worth 700-1000 as new cases are 1700! 1150 heads go for 300-500 also. Just to give you an idea what you are up against. It is EASY to get 140 HP @ the rear wheel with an 1170 & you could buy another 1100 motor a LOT cheaper than an 1150 motor. I am just trying to make you aware of what you are looking at in trying to buy an 1150 motor. Even still, you may get lucky & find one from someone that doesn't know what they are worth but that is getting harder every day. Good luck whichever way you decide. Ray.

 

[blowerbike]

who is going to do the labor on a complete dis-reassembly?
i got 500 over 20 years ago..
for the handful of people i still do work for i still charge the same 500.
i see complete 1150's for a grand an under from time to time.
what's an 83 black motor worth/selling for?
if you go silver engine then you'll have the small left side problems that cost a lot to convert to the 83 1100/1150 spec.
my point is............1150 engine...used .340 webs..HD basket...and...
the special tuning of the cams and carbs.
on either engine you want cams/carbs/HD basket so these all cancel each other out.
so here is some simple math...
if you buy a good 1150 engine for a grand...then all you spend is a grand..see what i mean???


added...
the 1150 package in a street chassis is not a sub 10 second package...neither is the 1168 package.
weight is a killer plus the riders weight and his abilities..

 

[RacingJake]

A Katana 750 dot head with a few mods, G4 cams and 14/48 sprockets should wake it up. Less than 500 ebay bucks and you should get more than 20 hp.

 

[blowerbike]

he will still have a silver engine with a non welded crank and a small left side that will fail sooner or later.