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GS1100EZ - 40hp for $1,000?

  • Thread starter Thread starter CivilRock
  • Start date Start date
i paid 700 for my 1150 motor with one bent valve . sent the head to jd to get ported next im buying piston , then under cut trany
 
blowerbike - that ($500) is very reasonable labor on your part for that job - If I wanted to make my GS a monster I'd be begging you to work for me.

I guess the least expensive way to run high 10's would be to sell a good GS1100 and buy a good GS1150 - good deals show up once in a while.
 
I have read the GS resources for many years and there is a great deal of knowledge here. Being a GS rider and racer for many years, I also appreciate it.

If you were looking for a street legal, high 9 second bike, I am posting my 1978 GS1000E for sale there today. 1238cc, VHR head, 40 Mikuni's etc, etc.
 
blowerbike said:
he will still have a silver engine with a non welded crank and a small left side that will fail sooner or later.
Click to expand...

I've never had a small end fail or twist on me after thousands of runs with bar or no bar with a 7" slick on me in the past 10 years. It's always a bearing letting go first. The only time I had a twisted crank is when someone sold me a "good" crank and upon inspection I noticed it was twisted.

Now I have busted the ring gear off an oem basket before :-$
 
RacingJake said:
I've never had a small end fail or twist on me after thousands of runs with bar or no bar with a 7" slick on me in the past 10 years. It's always a bearing letting go first. The only time I had a twisted crank is when someone sold me a "good" crank and upon inspection I noticed it was twisted.

Now I have busted the ring gear off an oem basket before :-$
Click to expand...

yes the side load is crazy and i have seen the toothed part/gear actually break.
also seen a lot of crank throws myself and working for pearson with deep tooth imprints...pretty ugly and shocking knowing the basket will flex that much with a helical gear....bad stuff.
one other thing on the big valve head would be a valve pocket issue with stock pistons...just saying...lol


added
i can make a small left side live but i have never had a customer listen to what i told them about the abuse to avoid.
it can work for me and you but from my experience the average person can break a rock.
the big left side is just insurance but they still go through S/C bolts and assorted S/C parts.
 
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Pearson does some good work and very reasonable. I have a crank Pearson made with 492 rods, big end, helical gear that I ran with a modified basket on 10" tire. Ran it into the high 8s. Never had any problems with it.

Last two cranks I had done by Pearson as well.
 
geek said:
Pearson does some good work and very reasonable. I have a crank Pearson made with 492 rods, big end, helical gear that I ran with a modified basket on 10" tire. Ran it into the high 8s. Never had any problems with it.

Last two cranks I had done by Pearson as well.
Click to expand...

slider or live clutch?
it makes a difference....
 
Both can be setup. I was using a multistage on a turbo. 1.2 short times. Heavy bike/rider.
 
Plot showing 0.3 seconds of data with different clutch settings. 100%, meaning no slip. Pretty tame setup.
 
so you ran super comp?
just wondering why 8.90's when you probably had enough engine/boost available for top gas?
we ran an 1100cc small tire no bar turbo(8.90's) and it broke the welds on the basket rivets...
but it took a couple dozen passes to break.
went to straight cut after that.
 
I would make a terrible bracket or index racer. Too much fun adjusting things.

Jack was running 9's with it when he owned it. It was a good bike for that. Greg tried to T/G it but could not cover the number. Not sure what he was running for a motor. I think his best was 8.26.

I pulled the helical gear combo at 8.70s. Stock basket but welded tangs to the gear to keep the plate from flexing. Bike and I were about 721 lbs back then.

Not all about power. Chassis had too much flex. Did pull off a teen pass with it once but was a handful.
 
UPDATE: I bought an 1150 motor.

UPDATE: I bought an 1150 motor.

So I just paid $700 for an Ebay 1150 motor. Shipping is going to be $175 terminal dock to terminal dock, Santa Rosa, CA to Portland, OR.

I'm nervous and excited at the same time.

I justified this purchase only because I think I can sell my very good 1100 motor for about the same amount.

I talked to the seller and they're a shop in Santa Rosa that did a lot of work for a guy that had a good collection of GS bikes. He unfortunately passed away after a battle with cancer and his son sold the whole lot to the shop and they're parting everything out. This motor was part of a disassembled restoration project. It has 6,600 miles, and 150psi compression. They have the whole bike including the gauges, but it's all in boxes. That's about all the info the shop knows. The shop thinks that the motor will be drop in ready to go just by looking at it and knowing the guy who collected the bikes.

So back to my OP... If I sell my 1100 motor for $700, all I'm really into this so far is $175 shipping. Cams $350, RS36 carbs $700? That's $1225 so far :D

Do you think that package will net +40hp?

I also have a really big question that I kind of made some assumptions about:
Does this motor just bolt into the GS1100E frame?

All the threads I've read seem so "matter of fact" about saying, "just swap in an 1150 motor". I never stopped to ask if there's any major modification in doing so. I'm totally capable of doing some modifications, but I hope I don't have to find an 1150 frame and marry the two. And can I use the same V&H street pipe?

I guess we'll find out.

-Kevin

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The 1150 motor bolts in. You STILL won't get the 40 you are looking for without a piston kit & porting. ALL of the power comes from the head work. Ray.
 
stock 1150 engine with RS36's and drop in cams with all the right tuning will run 10.30's in a heavy street bike.
same engine in a small tire drag bike chassis ran mid 9's.
the head had never been off....
i did several of these for people who seen my 1150 run..many doubter's all saying piston kit blah blah...silly people...!
do a basket/carbs/cams and be happy...
you will shlt yourself the 1st ride compared to what you had :)
 
He wanted 40 more hp. Stock pistons & no porting will not get him there. That's what I was answering to. We have an 1166, 10-1 compression, with a junk head & .348 cams that has gone 9.29 @ 147. What's your point? He wants 40 more hp. Ray.
 
40 HP for $1,000 was the title of the thread.

Really it's just a good title, and me asking if it was theoretically possible. I think the quick answer is NO.

But what I really want to know is: How can I get some moderate power improvements for a modest amount of money? (but that's what everyone asks, hence the clever title)

From all I've read, swapping in an 1150 motor would be cheaper than making a silver 1100 handle what a stock 1150 could. Step 1 complete. I basically got my welded crank, and sturdy rotor end done. (and more displacement)

My next step is going to be carbs. I don't know, but I'm guessing my 1100 stock carb set is not going to really work well with the 1150 motor. And it seems like the unanimous vote is Mikuni RS36 flatside carbs. So here's my next question:

Can I make RS36 carbs work with a stock 1150 motor?
And can I make the same RS36 carbs work with the camed, ported, bored 1150?
I think I just realized the real answer to this question. As I'm looking at used carbs, they're very close to the cost of new ones. So if down the road 36 is not big enough, I can just sell them and bump it up some.

If you can't tell, this is going to be a slow moving evolution of a bike. I might ride it with the 1150 and RS36 carbs alone for a year or two. That's just the way I am. I don't like to go all the way on the first date. And when I make an improvement, I want to really appreciate every step of the way.

Thanks for all your help gentlemen.
-Kevin
 
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Ray,
Thanks for the answers with authority.
"motor bolts in" Check.
"RS36 will work" Check.
"Real power = Port and Piston" Check.

Blowerbike,
I like the way you talk.
"You will shlt yourself the 1st ride compared to what you had"
10.3 with the 1150, cams, and RS36 would be phenomenal.

The best I could do was a 11.5 with the stock 1100.
I'm probably going to start with just RS36 carbs on the 1150 and see what I can do.
Then cams and see what I can do.
And I think it makes sense to do a piston kit and bore at the same time. By then I should have my skills refined, and hopefully a larger set of kahaunes.

-Kevin
 
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