GS1100g '83 Full Wiring Loom Rebuild

[Guest]

Mate this is good stuff!

Funnily enough I used to work for Jaycar back in about '93/94 I think it would've been, although up here in Brissie of course.

What are you planning on wrapping the harness in when you're done and where did you score the wire from?

Initially I said I'm gonna do a custom harness on mine, then realised it was gonna take me way too long and I'm getting impatient to get the engine rebuilt and tank etc. done so I can ride for the first time in years.

However, seeing this thread is making me rethink that again because I do need to clean my stock harness up, so perhaps it would be better just to start fresh like this...

 

[oohsam]

Hey! That's gold! Jaycar is a great shop, but a little overpriced at times. I got my auto cable after much research on auto cable. It was all overpriced till I found a place that sold 30m rolls for 9dollars. So I bought 7 rolls. They had trace colours but I didn't need them as I was changing colours anyway.
The cable is excellent quality. I have heaps left. The place is called the 12v shop here in melb.

Look, I was scared to do the harness but it was **** easy. I reckon I could do it again in half the tome and now I have full confidence in the wiring.

I say go for it. I did remove allot of stiff, like the gear position lights, and the kickstand light etc etc. I don't need all that. I always know what gear I'm in...

Let me know if u need any info at all. Happy to help.

 

[oohsam]

Oh, I'm going to wrab the harness in black cloth, I dunno what its called but it should look good and protects from heat. Might wrap it in shring wrap tape first though and shrink it

 

[Guest]

Yeah Jaycar's not necessarily the cheapest around, but usually better than tricky Dicky's and Tandy, although tricky Dicky now owns Tandy so they're gone.

The one thing I liked with Jaycar back then was that you had to know something about electronics to work there, whereas tricky Dicky would take anyone at all. At the time I was doing some electronics stuff at TAFE.

Anyways, I'll have to look around up here to find some good wire at a good price if I decide to go down that path.

I still want to keep the original functions, but I'd definitely like to simplify the wiring a bit more than it is now as well as being able to have more than just the one fuse.

I'm glad to hear you found it not too difficult to do, and between the various posts and diagrams around the place I'm sure it won't be too hard to adapt one for the 450.

I'll wait and see how I go with the valves and carbs then decide what to do.

 

[Billy Ricks]

If I ever get around to a full tear down on my bike I need to do the same. There are probably a dozen wires in my harness that aren't needed.

 

[oohsam]

If u ever need cables from here let me know ill be more than happy to send u some of my cables or get some for u and post it down, that offer is open to anyone actually.

The quality of the cable is second to none.

 

[Guest]

One thing I neglected to ask...

Did you use the OEM connectors for the instruments and controls on your new harness or did you find other connectors that fitted exactly or did you change them altogether?

I'm facing 10.6 volts at most places on my harness and if a clean up of the ignition and run controls etc. doesn't bring it up enough, I think I'm going to have to make a harness just to get it started for the first time.

 

[Steve]

I'm facing 10.6 volts at most places on my harness and if a clean up of the ignition and run controls etc. doesn't bring it up enough, I think I'm going to have to make a harness just to get it started for the first time.

Why not just find the problem and fix it? :-k

Start your project with the bike turned OFF, measure (and record) the battery voltage. It would be best to have it connected to a charger or another battery, as you will have the bike turned ON for a while. Turn the bike ON, measure (and record) the voltage at the battery again. Measure it at both sides of the MAIN fuse. Measure it at the common side of the other three fuses. Somewhere along the line, you are likely to find a drop that is bigger than the others. Trace back between that measurement and the previous one to find the culprit.

.

 

[Guest]

Why not just find the problem and fix it? :-k

Start your project with the bike turned OFF, measure (and record) the battery voltage. It would be best to have it connected to a charger or another battery, as you will have the bike turned ON for a while. Turn the bike ON, measure (and record) the voltage at the battery again. Measure it at both sides of the MAIN fuse. Measure it at the common side of the other three fuses. Somewhere along the line, you are likely to find a drop that is bigger than the others. Trace back between that measurement and the previous one to find the culprit.

.

You're definitely right Steve. I didn't elaborate but I intend to isolate the cause first and if it can be fixed it would be much quicker and easier than a new harness. This work was only implied at best by my comment... sorry for the confusion .

My question was more around if the standard cabling was used with the custom harness in case I do need to go down that path...