Yep, worn tires are a big cause of weave/wobble. Problems with the rear suspension are another, lack of damping in shock(s) and/or worn swingarm bearings.
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GS1100G suspension upgrades?recommeded parts?
- Thread starter Buffalo Bill
- Start date
Yep, worn tires are a big cause of weave/wobble. Problems with the rear suspension are another, lack of damping in shock(s) and/or worn swingarm bearings.
I've noticed the small text as well. This post is more better.
Well, Tried to do as best of a front end sag test as I could, but with nobody to help steady the bike I can't take both feet up and rest them on the pegs, plus I had no gear on. The result was only 20mm front sag.
I'll work on a way to steady the bike with my feet up. Some kind of horizontal bar or 2x4 clamped to my work bench I can hold on to.
I'll work on a way to steady the bike with my feet up. Some kind of horizontal bar or 2x4 clamped to my work bench I can hold on to.
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I dunno grimly, yah have to bounce the bike a bit to be sure it's settled down to it's lowest point before measuring it.
Anyway, I found an easy way, just park next to something solid to steady yourself as you settle the bike and put your feet up.
Have a stick propped against the front turn signal and mark it before you sit down, then after you settle your weight on the bike.
Anyway, I found an easy way, just park next to something solid to steady yourself as you settle the bike and put your feet up.
Have a stick propped against the front turn signal and mark it before you sit down, then after you settle your weight on the bike.
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You will not get an accurate sag measurement doing it alone.
Grimly, I used your twist tie trick, worked good for me.
Rich, you're right but, dang no volunteers.
I watched a useful old video to remind me how to do it right: Twist of the Wrist 2. It has a section demonstrating how to measure static sag.
My 1100G measures out; front 30mm, rear 32mm.
Measured my '90 GSX750F too and decided to swap the 200mm fork spacers to 230mm.
Now it measures front 30mm, rear 35mm. OK for novice track day.
Rich, you're right but, dang no volunteers.
I watched a useful old video to remind me how to do it right: Twist of the Wrist 2. It has a section demonstrating how to measure static sag.
My 1100G measures out; front 30mm, rear 32mm.
Measured my '90 GSX750F too and decided to swap the 200mm fork spacers to 230mm.
Now it measures front 30mm, rear 35mm. OK for novice track day.
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Closer to 35mm is what generally works best on street bikes.
On the 750...holy crap, that's a lot of preload, 30mm + whatever it had to start with. Not a good thing.
On the 750...holy crap, that's a lot of preload, 30mm + whatever it had to start with. Not a good thing.
Rich, did not notice you're the Sonic Springs guy.
Was gonna send email; Have you got springs for the 1990 GSX750F?
Not that I hate the street ride on it, but for track days it's kinda soft. They are progressive rate springs and I measured the front static sag at 63mm, from no weight fully extended to full body weight in riding position. That's why I put the 230mm spacers in.
Was gonna send email; Have you got springs for the 1990 GSX750F?
Not that I hate the street ride on it, but for track days it's kinda soft. They are progressive rate springs and I measured the front static sag at 63mm, from no weight fully extended to full body weight in riding position. That's why I put the 230mm spacers in.
Yep, sure do.
http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=31_99&osCsid=6c977b4636155502b7f450a4efc0c7ac
63mm of sag, that's probably a record for a street bike.
http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=31_99&osCsid=6c977b4636155502b7f450a4efc0c7ac
63mm of sag, that's probably a record for a street bike.
I saw that, but you know the 750 was redesigned for 98 forward?
So are the springs the same for the pre and post 98 750F Katana?
So are the springs the same for the pre and post 98 750F Katana?
Yep, they all take the same fork springs.
Ok, how about a swingarm brace for the 1100G?
This pic is for a BMW me thinks, but it's a great idea for the big G swingarms, I know mine sashays quite a bit when leaned over on uneven pavement.
In fact that is just the motion I wanted to eliminate.
This pic is for a BMW me thinks, but it's a great idea for the big G swingarms, I know mine sashays quite a bit when leaned over on uneven pavement.
In fact that is just the motion I wanted to eliminate.
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Where is that brace from!? You get what you pay for as far as suspension stuff goes. After having a adventure bike for a year (1050 triumph tiger) with 6" of travel front and rear and dealing with roads that look like something from a war zone, you dont know what your missing. It was basically a sport bike with travel/stunning ride, killer brakes, leg room and bags. Had 998 mile day on one. Not the best looking bike on the planet, but in the end I will have more $$$ into a restored GS than the Tiger.Ok, how about a swingarm brace for the 1100G?
This pic is for a BMW me thinks, but it's a great idea for the big G swingarms, I know mine sashays quite a bit when leaned over on uneven pavement.
In fact that is just the motion I wanted to eliminate.
It popped up in a google search for "why brace a swingarm?".
I would make my own, and already decided not to weld onto the shaft tube. Instead I'd use a bracket base on the brace arm for the tube side bolted on using the tube to hub bolts to hold it on.
I would make my own, and already decided not to weld onto the shaft tube. Instead I'd use a bracket base on the brace arm for the tube side bolted on using the tube to hub bolts to hold it on.
Ok, inspired to work on my GS1100G this winter, progressing towards more sport performance overall.
After I installed .95 Sonic Springs this last summer the front was a bit high. I decided to add clip-ons to lower the front.
Modded an upper tree from a 1100E to fit clip-ons, give them more angle adjustability.
One thing leads to another…
After clip-ons:
Notice it's a couple inches higher with Drag bars:
After I installed .95 Sonic Springs this last summer the front was a bit high. I decided to add clip-ons to lower the front.
Modded an upper tree from a 1100E to fit clip-ons, give them more angle adjustability.
One thing leads to another…
After clip-ons:
Notice it's a couple inches higher with Drag bars:
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Did you slide the fork tubes up through the lower triple to give yourself enough tube above the upper triple to mount the clipons? Kinda looks like it...
If so, did you check to make sure the fender or lower fork tubes don't hit the lower triple at full compression?
If so, did you check to make sure the fender or lower fork tubes don't hit the lower triple at full compression?
Hey Rich, weird questions there. 
Fender might hit the horns too at full compression if it's turned a bit? Looks like there's not a lot of clearance.
One GS1000E I bought a while ago had a dented fender from hitting a crash bar mounted across where your horns are, it wasn't even lowered like yours.
One GS1000E I bought a while ago had a dented fender from hitting a crash bar mounted across where your horns are, it wasn't even lowered like yours.
