G
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Back to the bike this morning - TDC set, tensioner assembly off the bike. I did the job with carbs in-situ, and it was a tight squeeze, even with my little 'chimp hands' as my wife calls them!
Bwringer's advisory says in part4 "Inspect the angled surface (ramped area) of the pushrod for dents or pits formed by the ball bearing on the end of the adjuster. These dents will cause the tensioner to hang up." The pushrod had a very distinct depression on the angled face where it had been in contact with the ball. 30 minutes with a sheet of sandpaper smoothed it out ok.
The key phrase/advice (in BikeCliff's article) during the rebuild process, and which made it all go together properly, was this:
"Mr. Billy Ricks adds:
With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out 1/4 turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further. With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out."
Stripped/cleaned/reset the unit as per the given advice. The spring behind the knurled knob was reset with one full turn of spring pressure. The spring retaining holes didn't line up 100% but very close to. Unit was put back on the bike, plunger released/locked, and the engine was turned over from the 19mm nut on the crank. All seemed ok, so fire it up.
Result
- no movement from the knurled wheel and I'm not sure if I'm imagining it, but the engine actually sounds like its running better. There's a definite 'smoothness' which wasn't there before, and a distinct sound to the motor, which I remember very well from my GS750 days - its like an engine whine, but not in a bad way - its just how I recall that they sounded.
Been out for a 5 mile test run - no problems, bangs, rattles, and it was like riding an almost-new machine. Suffice it to say, I'm very pleased with the result. :encouragement:
Thanks to GSR for the so-very-useful advice notes, and to those who have commented/helped on this thread :clap::clap:. Maybe keeping it here for reference will help others to sort out their own similar issues in future.
Bwringer's advisory says in part4 "Inspect the angled surface (ramped area) of the pushrod for dents or pits formed by the ball bearing on the end of the adjuster. These dents will cause the tensioner to hang up." The pushrod had a very distinct depression on the angled face where it had been in contact with the ball. 30 minutes with a sheet of sandpaper smoothed it out ok.
The key phrase/advice (in BikeCliff's article) during the rebuild process, and which made it all go together properly, was this:
"Mr. Billy Ricks adds:
With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out 1/4 turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further. With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out."
Stripped/cleaned/reset the unit as per the given advice. The spring behind the knurled knob was reset with one full turn of spring pressure. The spring retaining holes didn't line up 100% but very close to. Unit was put back on the bike, plunger released/locked, and the engine was turned over from the 19mm nut on the crank. All seemed ok, so fire it up.
Result
- no movement from the knurled wheel and I'm not sure if I'm imagining it, but the engine actually sounds like its running better. There's a definite 'smoothness' which wasn't there before, and a distinct sound to the motor, which I remember very well from my GS750 days - its like an engine whine, but not in a bad way - its just how I recall that they sounded.Been out for a 5 mile test run - no problems, bangs, rattles, and it was like riding an almost-new machine. Suffice it to say, I'm very pleased with the result. :encouragement:
Thanks to GSR for the so-very-useful advice notes, and to those who have commented/helped on this thread :clap::clap:. Maybe keeping it here for reference will help others to sort out their own similar issues in future.
