gs450 bearing color codes - My Suzi has guts

[gsjames]

Hello GS forum members!
My name is Jim
I have a 1980 gs450L

Does anyone know how to use the color coded bearing chart?

On my Crankcase A B
AAAA

Counter shaft has a B on right side,

No other letters on balance shaft.

Crankshaft has B B C B from let to right

Rods and rod journals both have 2 on them.



I could post video with juicy close-ups of the journals if it helps... Thanks, Jim

 

[Nessism]

Have you looked in the manual from Basscliff's website?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[tom203]

Are you sure you need to do this? Plain bearing procurement is tricky. Hopefully, member Pete from the land down under will surface.

 

[gsjames]

Yes, I have Clymer and micrometers.
A little scetchy on the color codes.
Thanks

 

[gsjames]

Not sure at all.
There is a bit of side to side in the crankshaft and I can feel a bit of clunk in the mains as well.
I can see wear on the bearings.
Now I have found almost all the numbers I might have it figured out.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Do yourself a favor and download the service manual. That should be the first place you turn then go to the Clymers if necessary as the Clymers is known to have mistakes in them.

 

[Guest]

Not sure at all.
There is a bit of side to side in the crankshaft and I can feel a bit of clunk in the mains as well.
I can see wear on the bearings.
Now I have found almost all the numbers I might have it figured out.

If by side to side you mean endplay - in and out - the usual figure is about .010 [limit .015??] but I can't find the reference to that with a quick look at the factory manual. This may seem loose, but the cases will expand when hot and the clearance will drop as the case expands faster than the steel crank. The thrust bearings are easy to replace if they're worn past the limit of 2.85 mm thick.

I'd suspect that GS500 bearings would be the same thing as 450. Probably updated numbers by now.... Don't overlook the balance shaft bearings which are same as mains.

 

[GregT]

Well on those codes, your mains should be, black, black,brown and black. You're missing a code on the balancer shaft.
The endfloat limit is not quoted but the thrust bearing thickness is - 2.85mm or .112in.

If you have it apart, I'd get the shaft linished. This is not a grinding process, it's a polishing one. Removes any tiny imperfections.
Any car engine reconditioner should be able to do this quite cheaply.

And yeah, download the manual.

 

[gsjames]

My Clymer states crankshaft runout 0.05mm or 0.0020 in,
My crank appearrs to have more.
Still can't find another mark on the balance shaft. Micrometer says 1.2598 and the case is an A, so I am thinking "Green"
Linished sounds good to me. I see some normal wear.
Thanks

 

[gsjames]

Do yourself a favor and download the service manual. That should be the first place you turn then go to the Clymers if necessary as the Clymers is known to have mistakes in them.

I did download a manual from bikecliff. Is that where I get the "service manual"?

 

[Nessism]

Basscliff only has the Clymer for the 450. It's the one chink in the GS manual armor since no factory manual download is available.

 

[gsjames]

Thanks Guys!
I feel like I know 100% more about this today.
My plan is to get the parts ordered and paint the frame.
I have the carbs done and the head and jugs as well.
I will post it on the bike builds forum soon.

 

[Guest]

I have a re-print of the genuine factory manual here, I'll try to remember to have a look tonight and see what I can find that's helpful. My motor was ok when I pulled it apart so I didn't have to worry about bearings etc. at the time.

 

[gsjames]

This is what old bearings look like.
The hard shiny coating on the aluminum bearing is wearing off.

30 - 40,000 miles on the bike.

 

[Guest]

Wow someone hasn't maintained that! Mine had 96,000kms when I pulled it down (which ended up not being necessary... long story) and it was like new inside.

Apologies, I owe you some info from the factory manual which I will dig out this weekend for you, been a little otherwise occupied this week!

 

[Nessism]

This is what old bearings look like.
The hard shiny coating on the aluminum bearing is wearing off.
View attachment 58767
30 - 40,000 miles on the bike.

Those bearings don't look too bad. I don't blame you for wanting to replace them but I've seen much worse run perfectly fine.

 

[gsjames]

The bike always ran fine but the compression went low from a cheap head gasket and carbon on the valves.
Like a bone head I removed the air box and that helped to kill it also.
I decided to restore it because it always ran so great. The handling left a bit to be desired. L !

 

[gsjames]

I found the color codes on the edge of the bearings.
Getting out the micrometer to check thickness.

 

[GregT]

This is what old bearings look like.
The hard shiny coating on the aluminum bearing is wearing off.
View attachment 58767
30 - 40,000 miles on the bike.

You've got that the wrong way round. The shiny areas are where there's been metal to metal contact. As received they're the dull flat silver all over.
As has been said - seen worse.

 

[Guest]

Here are the two pages from the manual that have the bearing colour codes and part numbers:

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr

Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr