GS450 L - want to find a shorter clutch cable

[Jen]

I have a 83 GS450L that I have put lower bars on and done a couple other modifications to, and now the clutch cable is about 6-8 inches too long. The extra length was causing the cable to bind up in the housing and giving me real fits. Last ride out the clutch stopped working completely (won't engage the gear at all) so I popped the cover off to see if the cable was broken or frayed or stretched. The cable looks *okay* but not great, but everything in the cover looked fine, filthy but functioning. I think the kinks and binding in the too-long clutch cable might be my issue (at least I hope), so I'd like to clean it up, and route a shorter cable and see if that fixes my issue. BUT- every website wants to match me with a cable based on my year and model, meaning it will also be too long! Any guesses on what year/model to specify that will give me a cable/housing assembly about 6-8 inches shorter? Like maybe a model that is not an "L" (lower bars)? Newer GS500?



You can kind of see how I had the clutch cable pulled down super far because it's so long.

 

[Jen]

This is what I found inside the cover.

 

[Gorminrider]

^^that's par for the course. cast-off Chain oil and road dirt. + maybe leaking clutch-pushrod seal (very common) not much to be done unless you experiment with fancy chain oils and even then, it's going to be hard to resist over-doing it. I can't be bothered to worry about it -better is too much chain oil than not enough.

How long is yours by the way. I have a T cable I can measure. The T or E models should be better but there will still be extra versus yours but I know stock fit's bars with very small rise very well. Also, check the parts fiches and see if the part number is different, L versus E or T.

but really why not goto a MC shop if you live in Kansas City and see what they have in stock? Or online, buy from someone that accepts returns? Not many in the discount business have the extra time to give custom advice so call up a specialty place like Z1?. They will talk to you if you know what measure you need

 

[LAB3]

I'd give that a good cleaning before deciding you need a new cable.

 

[herostar]

I'm working on the same problem, but for my E. It's definitely a binding issue, not a cable lube issue as the cable must make some pretty specific curves in its routing to fit correctly.

I put on new bars (drag, I think?) that are a few inches lower. I ordered what I thought was the right cable but it ended up being 4" longer than my E cable, so I probably got the L cable.

If/when I find a solution I'll post on here. I asked the parts guy at Performance Cycle if he could help out, but there were no lengths associated with the cable part numbers

 

[Jen]

I'm working on the same problem, but for my E. It's definitely a binding issue, not a cable lube issue as the cable must make some pretty specific curves in its routing to fit correctly.

I put on new bars (drag, I think?) that are a few inches lower. I ordered what I thought was the right cable but it ended up being 4" longer than my E cable, so I probably got the L cable.

If/when I find a solution I'll post on here. I asked the parts guy at Performance Cycle if he could help out, but there were no lengths associated with the cable part numbers

I came across the same issue. The cable started binding after I put lower bars on, it got worse and worse, and then it quit completely. The L cable was WAYYYY too long. And when I called a few places to get some help figuring out which cable to order, they seemed incapable of opening a package and measuring it. Sigh.

I ended up ordering the E cable, and a set of Renthal ultra-low bars (gold anodized!!!). The low bars will be higher than my clipons, and hopefully that will alleviate the rest of the binding. Right now, the cable leaves the lever and has to go down this tight spot in between the gauges and the triple tree. It's just a very congested area...

 

[Guest]

I have used a clutch cable from a 83-85 750/700e/es on many L conversions to shorter bars. The cable even has a 90 degree bend on the handle end makes it much easier to route

 

[Steve]

Is there a chance that the 450S uses a shorter cable? :-k

Don't know if the bars are lower than the E bars, but it's worth a try.

.

 

[Nessism]

There are a bunch of different 450's that used varies handlebar heights. I'd buy the cable from a bike with the similar height that you want.

BTW, an brand new clutch and throttle cable are a thing of beauty and well worth the nominal money to purchase. The OEM Suzuki cables are far superior to aftermarket so you may want to keep this in mind as you shop.

 

[Jen]

There are a bunch of different 450's that used varies handlebar heights. I'd buy the cable from a bike with the similar height that you want.

BTW, an brand new clutch and throttle cable are a thing of beauty and well worth the nominal money to purchase. The OEM Suzuki cables are far superior to aftermarket so you may want to keep this in mind as you shop.

My stock cable full length is 55"and the housing is 49"
6-10 inches shorter would be good.

 

[Gorminrider]

Motion pro has a 48" cable, end to end. Part number is 0652-0012. I know this because I have one in the bag (but no, you can't have it

By the way, The E,T and S all have the same Suzuki part number as replacement. All three bikes came with the option of low and medium bars so they will all be a bit long per your bars. The L has a different part number and I guess is going to be longer. maybe Not useful, but your cable matches my old stock spare that is not from an L =54"..

ADD: that number off the package co-relates to motion pro's part from their page for a clutch cable suitable for a 450E

https://www.motionpro.com/product/04-0005

 

[Nessism]

Partzilla shows the E and S models using the came cable...https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/58200-44100?ref=05dad524e45cabee82124c29cd56eb0abc60c63d


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Su...XUAAOSw0cJbJ7Gx:sc:USPSFirstClass!90503!US!-1

 

[Gorminrider]

and on the other hand, MrCycles offers two possibilities as clutch cable for an E . I'd surmise that the cheap one is the shorter one. Naturally, they don't show the two different handlebars but do list them (as non-available of course-I've been sporadically looking for a set of the taller type of bar-the medium- which is keeping me interested in your cable!

https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f173f8700230d8b4bbf9/handlebar-gs450et

 

[Jen]

Okay guys- the E cable I ordered came in and the length looks perfect. I mocked it up, and it FELT good! So then I reassembled everything, and bolted the cover back on.... and it's garbage. The feel in the clutch lever is very mushy and difficult to pull, but the spring in the cover isn't pulling the cable back into position. So it's hard to pull the lever, and then the lever stays pulled.
I'm going to take it all back apart again tonight, but any guess on what I'm doing wrong or where to look next?

 

[Nessism]

You may have to play around with the clutch cable routing to make sure it's not binding anywhere. Be sure to lubricate the actuator helix in the cover too. And some oil inside the cable won't hurt either.

 

[solarae]

I have GS250T that is very similar to the 450L. I converted to a Cafe bike with low bars. I was very concerned about the excess length of the clutch cable but was able to give it a big "s" bend and it seems to work fine. It may be that the problem is not the cable. Another thought is that the really long original cable that I have would take large gentle bend but the slightly shorter cable is actually taking a sharper bend. Best luck. I would still be interested in hearing about a shorter cable that works. It would tidy up the looks of my project.

 

[Jen]

You may have to play around with the clutch cable routing to make sure it's not binding anywhere. Be sure to lubricate the actuator helix in the cover too. And some oil inside the cable won't hurt either.

I took everything back apart and followed this advice, especially lubing EVERYTHING. Also- there was a sheet on the manuals site that details how to adjust the clutch/actuator and I started from scratch with that. Everything seems really good now. I took it for a short test ride (it was sprinkling) and the clutch felt soooo much better. I'll do a longer ride this weekend to be sure. In the past the stickiness of the clutch got worse after 10-15 miles of riding so I want to be sure I have it dialed, but at least I've figured out how to fix it (I think).

I'm so relieved to have my bike back running again- thank you guys for all your help!

Solarae- for what it is worth, the E cable worked soooo much better and the routing is really nice. It doesn't have a sharp bend at all.