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GS650GZ Katana Rebuild (Historical)

A few more 'ingredients' for Pete


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Examining the tank there were wide 'ring' patterns of rust bubbles under the paint. A little exploratory sanding revealed rust on the margins of bog patches. So being an unknown quantity, out with the paint stripper.


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A bit of work to do....


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Not too bad...


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Weld spots where the top of the tank has been pulled out. Its been smacked up at some stage.


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Phosphoric acid treatment after a good seeing to with P60 grit on a random orbital sander.


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After washing a layer of etch primer


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Areas requiring filler now really obvious with etch primer. And yes filler sticks to this. Not as good as a 2-pack Urethane Primer, but it is a rust killer.


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Got the slapper out and "reversed the damage" as much as possible tapping down the high creases flat


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Bog on... Got the basic shape back. Next is blocking back and looking for profile, ripples and pinholes.


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I've picked a colour after quite a bit of 'umming and ahhing'. It's not a strict resto, and there is enough 13L on the 1100. I once owned an 1100EZ and a 190E 2.3-16 Cosworth liked the bronze metallic colour that was on both of them. And so went for Mercedes Smoke Silver.


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Blade putty fix for pin holes and minor imperfections


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Several coats of primer filler and guide coat.


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Blocked down and mud guard bottom in satin black.


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Base coat in Smoke Silver. Just decals and clearcoat to go


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I guess the question is how tidy is the 'tidy' in 'tidy-up'? In reality this project has become about how much can I do myself? And be cost effective.


I did the decals and sprayed some clear. Being acrylic I willhave to wait a while before cutting back and polishing.


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Finished the final coats of clear. Did a bit of experiment with gun setting, pressure and material viscosity and got it to lay flat and wet. A bit of orange peel, but ill give it 60 days and then cut and polish.


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Waiting for the Katana emblems to arrive to finish the side covers. Will start on the engine tidy up tomorrow night.
 
Finished the body work. Put on the Kat decals just to peez off Glen. Now the engine and there isn't much to do on that.


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Got most of the crud off.


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Head off.


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Inlet ports matched to manifolds and tracts tidied up.


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Casting lumps in the bowl and steps to valve seats removed


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Attention to smoothing the roof of the port. Leaving. The floor rougher. Taking care not to take too much metal out or alter the cross section (guide boss profile not relieved excessively) as I don't want to drop port velocity.


A bit more work on the inlets. Exhaust ports I wont fettle with. Paint the engine and bolt her back in the rolling chassis.


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Thanks Murray. I'm about 95% now.


Recently got back to the 650 project.


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So all thats left is to drop the bottom end into the chassis, bolt the top end back on, pipe on, valve shims, carbs on and synched, and she's ready for a sneaky test ride...
 
Ah nice Darryl, I like your installation method too! Nice and simple for one person.


Yep, can't rely on the in-house teenager being around when you need them. Rigged this to get it up on the bench. Did manage to dead lift the engine from the floor onto the bench by myself... once. But the last couple of inches were precarious to say the least. Thought better of it this time...


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Thanks guys.


Well, apart from mirrors and re-registration (and repairing the seat pan at a later date) she's done. Valve shims took 4 days to turn up from Webike. Eight shims to start the set for NZD $10 each shipped. Local stealer wanted $23 each + freight... Set the valve lash correctly and bolted the cam cover on.


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After a quick double check, the auxiliary gas tank was connected, full choke and she started almost immediately. After a warm up she settled into a relatively steady idle. An initial check revealed a fuel leak at the junction of carb 3 and 4. Out they came and the orings had been damaged by the PO when they reassembled the carbs and they had decided to let go. Appropriate replacement were on hand and the leak was fixed.


Set the ignition timing with the trusty timing light, balanced the carbs and then noticed oil drips on the headers. Initially it was a little puzzling where the source of the leak was. I had reused the cam box gasket which seemed to be in good nick, keeping the new one for the the post run in valve clearance check. It was leaking on the inside of the exhaust cam cover adjacent to spark plug 3 and running through an air passage onto the front engine mount and then onto the pipes. Clean oil meant tracing the oil was difficult. Put on the new gasket. Problem solved and another problem revealed.


I had put the tank back on the bike and when removing the tank to replace the gasket the disconnected fuel tap wouldn't shut off. I'd put a large rag down to catch spillage so no damage done. Luckily I had a spare tap on hand to replace the faulty unit.


Finally I set the fuel screws using the colortune. Engine is running really smoothly.  Happy as!


Weather is crapola so no sneaky test ride. Maneuvered the bike around the workshop so have 'ridden' about 2 meters to date.
 
The rain briefly relented and I got out for a sneaky 31 km test ride. On first blush it rides really well. She's very friendly. Runs straight hands off, didn't display any wiggles over mid-corner bumps. Steering is light, but seems reasonably accurate.


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Kept the revs down and varied the throttle position as much as possible. I can sense that rolling on the throttle wide open at anything less than 6,000 rpm will have minimal effect on acceleration because I tried just that. But did let her run up to 6,500 briefly and you could feel it start to come on the cam. When it's run in a bit we'll see what the top end is like. Time to get the paperwork sorted and ride the G.


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Well......39 posts in one day! (Unless you added more while I was counting?) Gotta be a record!
 
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