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GS850G - Truing Brake Rotors? Or Replacement??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Darin Jordan
  • Start date Start date
D

Darin Jordan

Guest
Hi Guys,

I'm getting ready to put new rubber on my GS850G, and figured that I'd replace the rear wheel bearings, as well as the Head Steering Bearings, upgrade the brake lines, and rebuild the brake calipers.

Found pretty much everything I need to know on the site, as you'd expect, but do have one question regarding brake rotors.

Are the rotors on these bikes something we need to have "turned", or are they a one and done, replace them when doing the brakes, kind of situation?

My rotors appear to be true and aren't grooved or anything. They do show slight signs of "normal" use and heat, but don't appear to have any heat spots, etc.

Just wondering how much I need to order to get all the parts in one place when I order the caliper rebuild parts and brake lines.

Thanks,
 
H
My rotors appear to be true and aren't grooved or anything. They do show slight signs of "normal" use and heat, but don't appear to have any heat spots, etc.

If the brakes are not pulsating just run them. If they are, or if you want better looking ones I have a nice set of discs.
 
Hi Guys,

I'm getting ready to put new rubber on my GS850G, and figured that I'd replace the rear wheel bearings, as well as the Head Steering Bearings, upgrade the brake lines, and rebuild the brake calipers.

Found pretty much everything I need to know on the site, as you'd expect, but do have one question regarding brake rotors.

Are the rotors on these bikes something we need to have "turned", or are they a one and done, replace them when doing the brakes, kind of situation?

My rotors appear to be true and aren't grooved or anything. They do show slight signs of "normal" use and heat, but don't appear to have any heat spots, etc.

Just wondering how much I need to order to get all the parts in one place when I order the caliper rebuild parts and brake lines.

Thanks,

Worn rotor disc's can cause vibration and uneven wear in the pads, I'd take them all off and show them to a brake shop.
I went the whole hog and got new rotors, pads, Aftermarket S/S lines, new mounting bolts, and because there was some corrosion in one of the callipers I ended up with a new right hand calliper.
When you see a car pull out in front of you, you need to know those brakes are going to be 100%.
Don't forget to check the condition of the reservoir cups as well, my front one was beyond saving.
 
my rear rotor is toast. peeked at the brake pads and realized the PO was riding with almost no pads left. rotor is grooved and fails the fingernail test. gonna pick up a new set of pads and another rotor used.


Motorcycle014_zpse333da57.jpg
 
i'm in a similar situation. probably will grab one off of ebay or from someone here.

Hi Guys,

I'm getting ready to put new rubber on my GS850G, and figured that I'd replace the rear wheel bearings, as well as the Head Steering Bearings, upgrade the brake lines, and rebuild the brake calipers.

Found pretty much everything I need to know on the site, as you'd expect, but do have one question regarding brake rotors.

Are the rotors on these bikes something we need to have "turned", or are they a one and done, replace them when doing the brakes, kind of situation?

My rotors appear to be true and aren't grooved or anything. They do show slight signs of "normal" use and heat, but don't appear to have any heat spots, etc.

Just wondering how much I need to order to get all the parts in one place when I order the caliper rebuild parts and brake lines.

Thanks,
 
she'd rather not pay ebay prices. i said that in case this gentleman wanted to buy the ones you mentioned. :)

i *think* i just need the rear. i'll check the front tonight.
 
There's a lot of discs are replaced because they're a bit scored. A bit of light scoring is nothing - what matters is how thick they are and every manual should have the minimum thickness allowable. Also, new pads bed into the light scoring that most old rotors have and you get even better braking. :)
 
There's a lot of discs are replaced because they're a bit scored. A bit of light scoring is nothing - what matters is how thick they are and every manual should have the minimum thickness allowable. Also, new pads bed into the light scoring that most old rotors have and you get even better braking. :)

Minimum thickness is stamped right into the hub of the rotor
 
GS rotors are not thick enough to have them turned. Run them until they warp or get thin enough to see through...

You may want to clean them up just a bit with a Scotchbrite pad before installing, but that's about it.

Grooving doesn't matter much, either, other than it may take a bit longer to bed in new pads. They all end up looking grooved after a while, and it's really no big deal.
 
I'll be looking into this myself, soon enough. I have some pulsing in the front brakes and the rear is fried. Can anything other than warped rotors cause a pulsing sensation?
 
I offered a set as well, apparently he'd rather pay Ebay prices.

Haha... no. Not the case at all. I needed the rear rotor. Still need one, it turns out. If anyone has a nice REAR rotor for a 1980 GS850G, please contact me.

THANKS!
 
Kool. Let's make a deal. If to you have one that will replace the one on the right (on the wheel) in the attached picture, let me know what you want for it, because the replacement I thought I had is here on the left and is clearly not the correct part.

You can email me directly at Banzai240@yahoo.com
 
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