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GS850GL only idles

  • Thread starter Thread starter james1833
  • Start date Start date
J

james1833

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i had gotten a gs850 that didnt run at all. i cleaned and redone the carbs. got it to where it will start and idle but dies when giving gas. i have a vid of the problem if anyone wants it to help figure out the issue at hand.
 
First, ...

Next, how did you "clean" the carbs?

After that, do you have the airbox installed?

.
 
the carbs were completely taken apart and carb cleaner dipped and soaked over night all new o-rings. as far as air box i went with k&n cone air filters. it will start and idle fine. just dies when given just the slightest bit of throttle.
 
Did you re-jet the carbs?

Did you adjust the pilot (mixture) screws?

Pods will allow a LOT more air than the stock airbox, so you need to up-size the mains, probably to 125 or so, for a starting point. By the way, if you still have the stock airbox, don't get rid of it. If you ever decide you get tired of the pods, it will be MUCH easier to go back to stock. If you decide that you DO want to keep the pods, that airbox is highly sought after, especially if it still has the snorkel.

Your mixture screws should start about three full turns out from LIGHTLY seated. That will give a slightly-rich mixture and the bike will start easily. When it warms up enough to not use the "choke", slowly turn one screw IN until you hear the idle speed drop a bit. Back that screw out about 1/4 turn, move to the next screw. When you have done them all, repeat, but only back out 1/8 turn after engine speed drops. Verify that you still have crisp throttle response. If not, turn the screws OUT about 1/8 turn and try again. Don't worry if the screws are not all at the same setting, but they will likely be within 1/4 turn of each other.

.
 
I’m gonna go out on a limb say your engine is getting way too much air/not enough gas to match. If you’ve eliminated the perfect airbox that the some very smart engineers paired with a set of carbs with jetting to work with exactly that intake, you’ll need to re-Jet. Others will have recommendations on where to start experimenting with new larger jet sizing.

edit: what Steve said. I was writing my reply at the same time, he’s quicker on the draw.
 
Last edited:
thanks for the info if i will need to re jet i will probably go back with the original air-box just to make things easier. i will hopefully get some time this evening to look at it. but, my heater in the shop decided to quit working last night so that is taking priority.
 
update......shop heater still not working grrr. i got to work on the bike a little bit this evening. i pulled the carbs just to double check everything. there was a little gunk in the bowls and one float stuck. got them all cleaned out...again. as far as the factory air box it wont go on due to the rubber boots that clamp to the carbs has hardened and wont go on. if anyone knows where i can order the proper jets for the pods that would be great. the fuel mix screws were around 8 turns out i have put them at 3.5 turns out. now will not start at all, batt went dead on me, it is on charger. tomorrow is another day. instead of buying new jets is there a way to drill out the ones on it, or is that just a horrible idea.
 
OK, back up a few yards before punting. :-k

1. Intake boots are about $11-12 each.
2. Mikuni jets are $6.09 each at Jets R Us. Not for sure which size you need, you might end up getting a few different sizes. If you don't order them all at once, figure in additional shipping and wait times.
3. It sounds like the carbs are still not CLEAN. The basic steps you described earlier were on the right track, but there are a bunch of details that were not filled in that are very important to a well-running engine.
4. Please, NEVER drill out jets. Besides the fact that you won't know what size they really are, neither will the next guy. He may change the exhaust to something a bit more "free-flowing" and decide to upsize the mains. He will see "115" on the jets and go to 120. If your drilling job had taken them to about 130 or so, he would actually be DOWNsizing the mains, without knowing it.
5. Another option, not yet mentioned, is a DynoJet kit. I have not priced them lately, but seem to remember that they are about $125, maybe a bit more. The real advantage with the DJ kit is the new needles. Not only do they have multiple grooves for the clip, they have a MUCH different taper, which helps clean up the mid-range.

Bottom line:
Option 1 will cost about $50, you will have a great running bike.
Option 2 will cost about $30 for the first set of jets, another $25-30 for each successive set, if the first set is not quite right.
Option 3 might be free, might cost a few dollars, depending on what chemicals you used and what o-rings you installed. It could also cost a bit more if you were interested in having them done by another forum member. There are a few of us that offer that service for other forum members.
Option 4 should NEVER be done.
Option 5 is the most expensive DIY solution, but is pretty much "plug and play".

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up date....wife said i am starting to collect too much stuff and have to start clearing things out. sadly to say that the bike is going to have to go :mad:...... so with that being said any one needing a bike.
 
james1833 said:
up date....wife said i am starting to collect too much stuff and have to start clearing things out.
Click to expand...
And you pick the bike? For shame, man...

Anyway, I kid. Do what you need to do, most of us are, or have been married. You can always get another one...bike, that is.;)
 
I'd love to give my .02 here but for the sake of upsetting anyone-------I'll just pass.
 
Divorce is such a messy and expensive business, but it would have been a tough call.
 
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