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GS850L scary handling

  • Thread starter Thread starter flyingace
  • Start date Start date
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flyingace

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I just got an 83 GS850L. It has only 35K miles and runs great.

However, it really has a 'hinge in the middle' feeling going around turns. I owned a Yamaha XS650, so I know what that hinge feels like - but this is worse. I realize this is a heavy bike, and that the slightly extended forks of this model make matters worse.

I checked the swing-arm - it seems tight. The shocks are original, but they seem OK.

Has anyone had this problem and effectively solved it?

Thanks.
 
tires, steering stem bearings, fork bushings, wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, are all causes of handling problems.

you need to remove the rear wheel and it would also be good to remove the shocks from the swing arm mounts when checking the swing arm bearings.

odds are the swing arm bearings are ok as the shafties use realy big tough swing arm bearings.
it would be best to remove them, (much simpler than chain drive bikes) clean and repack the grease.
 
Thanks Leon.
I need a new rear tire, so I'll do these things before I remount it. At least then I can eliminate the rear end as the source of the 'hinge'.
 
You have to pull the swing arm to get to the brgs Regrease them & adjust the preload, MAKE sure to lube the wheel adapter splines for the differential while the wheel is off. Could be worn tires, forks- oil, springs colapsed. I would start with a new set of tires if they are more than 5 years old
 
Thanx SQ.

Lube the wheel adapter splines with what? No need to answer if it's in a the manual - I don't have it with me.
 
So the extended forks on the "L" models actually decrease handling performance?
 
UncleMike said:
So the extended forks on the "L" models actually decrease handling performance?
Click to expand...
NOT if they are set up properly "L" model steers slower than the regular axel forks
 
It appears to me (and I could be wrong) that the 'L' and 'G' models have the same wheelbase - so the fork length would only be a factor in terms of rigidity.

Ace.
 
handling

handling

things not mentioned but I have seen make sure the load adjustment is the same on both shocks and also check the tire pressure, and front fork oil volume
 
The "L" model of course has a longer wheel base partly because the axel is in front & also it has 1 deg more rake in the forks
 
When regreasing the back end, it would be a good idea to use Honda Moly 60 (60percent molybdenum disulfide) as it is the ultimate grease .


You should also take the front wheel off, check/regrease bearings, and change the fork oil /air pressure in the forks.


got an 850 L myself.


CHANGE HANDLEBARS~! :wink:
 
Thanks all for the advice. I just discovered the air-assist in the forks had no pressure - and the rear was set up quite stiff. Weather won't permit me to check if it made a difference, but I'll repost here when I can.

Ace.
 
The stock rear shocks are worse than worthless, dangerous, evil hunks of garbage. (I'm holding back here...) Heck, screen door dampers would probably be an improvement over stock.

A set of Progressive shocks will stabilize you wonderfully in the turns and are well worth the small investment.

And naturally, you're going to need a set of Progressive fork springs -- the same comments apply to the worthless stock Suzuki fork springs.

Until you upgrade your suspension, you're going to get all kinds of wobbles and weaves, pitching, instability, evil ride, bottoming, tire wear, and premature curvature of the spine.

Good suspension isn't just for the fast riders -- it's essential safety equipment for every rider.
 
If anyone is still interested...

I put new rubber on the rear - a Dunlop K491. It made a world of difference. The old tire was worn and very old and stiff. I had no idea it could make such a diffrence.

Thanks for the advice.

Ace.
 
I don't think the stock suspension of the 850GL is so bad. As a matter of fact, I like it. Personal preferences are a big factor here, I think.

The L model seems to hold a straight line very well. I've done 20 miles on the highway without ever touching the handlebars. I sometimes wonder why some folks buy a bike and then try to modify it into the bike they really want instead of just buying the bike they want from the start.

It's definitely true, however, that it's pretty darn important to have the suspension in good condition, including the tires. I really like the Dunlop GT 501s that I put on last summer. They made a big difference.
 
I remember reading an article about the L model a long time ago. The author had ridden both standard and L models, and concluded the L had better handling characteristics due to it's wider/smaller rear tire and increased rake/trail of the front end. He was a little suprised that a 'raked out' bike was more stable than the standard. 'Better' is subjective, but I think he meant stability at speed and around bends. I have never been on a standard model, so I really can't say.

Ace.
 
Hey guys, I gotta go with bwringer on this, but not because the stock suspension was bad in the first place (HOW COULD YOU EVEN THINK IT?) But because a suspension that is 23 years old is WORN OUT. Original shocks are junk after 23 years, the spring is gone from the springs. I too searched out the cause of unstable cornering and head shake and twitchy riding, looked at the swing arm bearings, chain and sprockets, adjust and aligned everything I could think of, new tires front and rear, none solved the issue. But putting a NEW OEM style set of shocks on the back and "BAM" whole difrent bike. I am replacing springs and seals an oil in front forks this weekend so as to have a NEW suspension (close enough for me anyway) and I don't even have to ride it yet to be able to say I know it will no longer have any of the prior issues. New shocks and springs and you too could have that new bike feel all for under $200 us funds.
 
It feels so much better with the new tire, I'm OK with the old shocks. The $200 is going toward pistons/rings - my compression readings are getting down there.
 
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