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GSX1100G making squealing noise after clutch repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
First you said:
The 50mm nut was properly torqued.
Click to expand...

Then you said
I think I likely over-torqued the 50mm nut.
Click to expand...

Well which is it?

I doubt you torqued it down correctly the first time if you had the bike in neutral and did not use the proper tool. More than likely your problem lies in the clutch assembly. It was running fine before you worked on the clutch. After you worked on it, the clutch slipped and started making a lot of noise. Something is probably not assembled correctly or loose.
 
Paul Harvey said:
After pulling the cover and thinking about this (the noise came about after the clutch job and after it started slipping), I think I likely over-torqued the 50mm nut.
Click to expand...

When I checked it with the torque wrench, it did not move and the wrench clicked at 70 foot-pounds, so I knew it was not under-torqued. After thinking about it, it occurred to me if the nut was torqued to 80 or even 100+ foot pounds it would have clicked at 70. When I went to take it loose, it seemed like a lot of effort for my air gun, but it is old and I'm sure it does not put out 100%.

I'll know more when I am able to pull the baskets and look everything over. I'm on parts hold for now.
 
Squeekin?

Squeekin?

I suspect that when pieces of the clutch came of the plates, maybe you have the pieces blocking the oil restrictors to the head? Then the cams are eaten along with the rockers and the head itself in the journel area too.
Pull the VC before going any further!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, you will need a new head, cams, and rockers.
Greg
 
Question for those in the know, will a 2001 GSF1200 Bandit head bolt on & seal on this engine & can I use the stock Bandit cams? I see the valve cover gasket is the same part # but the head gaskets are different.
 
Bandit?

Bandit?

Yes, the 12Bandit head will go straight on. Cams can be used as well. Though, they may be smaller than the GSXF cams.
But I can get you an individual rocker GSXR1100 head with all the valve train which will also bolt straight on. Since you are NOT racing it and needing larger cams, the individual rockers would not be a problem.
Laters
Greg
 
I've been focused on other things but wanted to post this for advice for the beloved GSX-G.

There is a 1998 Bandit 1200 head & cams FS now on eBay for $210 shipped. I can buy a 1991 GSX-G with no carbs for $400 (plus the cost of getting it here, probably $200). The engine supposedly ran about 4 months ago & he used the carbs on another bike. I could possibly sell off parts I didn't use to offset the cost.

If the oil restrictor is jammed, it seems like I'll need to flush out the entire engine. I suspect pulling the oil pan would be the best way to oust any large pieces of crud. Looking at the crankcase diagram, the head oil restrictor is #25:
0004.png

To do this repair, will I need a full gasket set or can I get by with a pan ($16)/base ($15)/head ($75)/valve cover ($20) gasket? This adds up to $126, and a full gasket set is $180.

What's the best course here? Seems like the used engine would be easiest, but of course if it has a problem, I won't likely know until I install it. With the Bandit head being on sale, this is a good cost savings. I'm leaning towards repairing vs replacement. It will be a good deal of work either way.
 
Opinion

Opinion

My thought is if you your adept enough to split the cases then maybe repairing it would be cheaper as you don't know what you get with a used engine. And then it gives you the opportunity to put a shorter cam chain as the Bandit does not have an idler between the sprockets. Though, I cannot remember if the "G" uses a roller cam chain or the silent, Hi-Vo type. Maybe it would be simpler to get an older GSXR1100 head instead? Or repair your "G" head? Take it apart first and see before buying more parts.
Laters
G:cool:
 
I pulled the valve cover this morning and took photos of the #1 intake cam, #1 exhaust, #4 intake, and #4 exhaust. #1 intake looks dry, this was the area the noise seemed to be coming from.

EDIT
Deleted wrong information re: hoses from crankcase to valve cover.


Here are the camshaft pics:
#1 intake


#1 exhaust




#4 intake



#4 exhaust
 
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I think my next diagnostic stage will be to pull the plugs and cams and then turn the engine over with an air wrench to check for oil flow from the hoses.
 
You're going to need some sort of method to support the cam chain if you plan on pulling the cams.
 
My Last Comment.
Why don't you get and read the factory service manual. Then understand it. In there, it will tell you that the oil hoses that you modified do NOT feed the cams but are for the oil flowing to the head to cool it. The oil to lubricate the cams and rockers comes up along the outside studs. And below those, are the restrictors. These, and others will need cleaning. So realistically, you should be splitting the cases to get to and clean out EVERYTHING! No half measures. Then, think about which head you will get to replace all the messed up parts.
Nuff Said.
G
 
I've completed that diagnostic and have oil flowing from both hoses in approximately equal amounts. It looks like the #1 cylinder intake side parts are fried- cam lobes/rocker arms. I can see galling & some discoloration while the others are bright & shiny.

I'll have to study the oil flow chart in the manual, but it seems like if something was jammed in one of the restrictors (there are one on each side of the block according to the parts diagram) it would affect all lobes on this side.

EDIT
Thanks Rusty, I figured that out when I tried turning it with a wrench. I used a piece of aluminum tubing to support the cam chain & tested it by turning the engine by hand. It worked well and I used the starter to spin the engine.

While I appreciate advice, I sure as hell do not appreciate attitude. Not everyone is an expert on everything. If we were, we'd have no need for forums like this one other than to showcase our expertise. Not everyone has unlimited funds to do things, and not everyone gets it right the first time. It's really easy to come down on people that don't know how to do what you know how to do. It's also the last thing someone that needs help really needs to hear.

I do have a shop manual my all-knowing friend. Here is the oil flow with the parts past the jets highlighted.



According to the manual, there are two jets (restrictors). At first after reading it, it looked like one feeds the intake side and the other the exhaust side. That being the case, it would appear the entire intake side should be lunched, not just the #1 & 2 parts. After looking at the rocker arms, it looks like the #1 & #2 side were galled. They were worse on the intake side. #3 & #4 looked much better. I then realized that each jet feeds the intake and exhaust for each side. That then is indeed the probable cause for the failure, as it is the choke point for oil. I AM AGREEING WITH THE PRIOR CONCLUSION IF THIS IS NOT CLEAR.
 
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Maybe it's me, looking at your diagram, but does it look like to you the camshafts have an oil passage drilled inside them? If that's the case then that may be the reason for wiping out only one side of the camshaft.
 
I take it as the oil flowing out of the cam journal lubes the chain. The camshafts are hollow but are not drilled for oil flow where they sit in the journal.
 
GS1000G Shopper said:
I take it as the oil flowing out of the cam journal lubes the chain. The camshafts are hollow but are not drilled for oil flow where they sit in the journal.
Click to expand...
The journal(s) should be oiled through a passage drilled in the head. Do the cam lobes have holes drilled in them?

Diagram... R. & L. oil jets> Stud bolts (XX side)> Cylinder head> (XX) rocker arm shafts> (XX) rocker arms> splash (drip) lube (XX) cam face's> Splash (drip) lube return.

Cam chain lubrication is a different path off the (XX) camshaft journals.
 
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Oh and I mis-read the oiling diagram. it is the (XX) rocker arm shafts that should be drilled.
 
One other thing I noticed is that the main gallery that feeds the jets/restrictors is fed post-filter. I only run Wix filters on my bikes, so this must have been an accumulation of crud. I had flushed the bike with clean oil & a new filter since it had sat so long & then changed the filter again.
 
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