GSX400E Project Suzzie.

[SVSooke]

AHHHHH......that's what the problem was,easy fix.Just plug the wires that go from the clutch switch together in the headlight bucket bypassing the switch.

 

[Guest]

Ever been told to not read more into it? Exactly. Electrical is sorted. Now, I'm not familiar with pulling in the clutch while in neutral to start a bike however after longer than I want to admit here that was the issue. Inside the switch, inside the headlight, testing here, testing there. Could not get power to the solenoid when pushing the start button.

Turned the motor over this morning. Feels good, nice resistance. Carburetor removal next but man, that air box looks like a challenge.

onward...

It's not. Undo the air box mounts and slide the air box back. Removing the air box will have you wondering if they welded the frame up around it.

You'll be replacing the carb boot o rings. I find that the screws that hold them on usually come off by grabbing the head with a small needle nose type vicegrip and some tapping and wiggling. There isn't enough room to have at them with an impact driver. You really don't want to break these screws off?.. I prefer to replace them with allen heads.

The carbs are jetted differently from a US 450. Normally, they have none of the lean surge that plagued that model and required shimming the needles and so on. Mine will start without the choke unless it's cold out and I only use a touch of choke to keep the idle up while it warms. Apart from the jetting, needles and such, the standard floats and gaskets and rubber bits may be the same as US 450.

Which manuals do you have?

 

[Runeight]

AHHHHH......that's what the problem was,easy fix.Just plug the wires that go from the clutch switch together in the headlight bucket bypassing the switch.

Dont understand why you would have to pull in the clutch while in neutral. Never had a bike like that. Well, it's good now.

 

[Runeight]

John>

Have a a size and thread pitch for the Allen heads?

I just have a Haynes manual but it's pretty complete. Do the intake tubes on the air box remove? Frame brace right over them. O rings ordered for the boots as well as the carburetors. (orings.com)

I also ordered a engine gasket kit and two aftermarket rebuild kits for the carburetors. Mostly just to have for parts if needed. Aftermarket never quite the same as OEM but would work in a pinch.

Carburetor removal next week time permitting.

Thanks guys..

 

[Guest]

The bolts are 6mm x 1.0 pitch, 20mm long. The originals have a lock washer, probably for a reason.

The intake tubes are integral to the air box. There are two bolts on the right side holding the toolkit plate and one on the left on a frame tab, then slide aft. The battery is in the way so it has to come out. Nothing to it.

There is a little velocity stack inside the intake tube that feels like it should come out but should probably left alone.

The air filter is a bit odd in that you have to sort of fold the plastic hold down grille over the foam to get it out the top so you can remove and clean the foam element. Just take your time and try not to break it. I think they were more flexible thirty years ago.

 

[Runeight]

The bolts are 6mm x 1.0 pitch, 20mm long. The originals have a lock washer, probably for a reason.

The intake tubes are integral to the air box. There are two bolts on the right side holding the toolkit plate and one on the left on a frame tab, then slide aft. The battery is in the way so it has to come out. Nothing to it.

There is a little velocity stack inside the intake tube that feels like it should come out but should probably left alone.

The air filter is a bit odd in that you have to sort of fold the plastic hold down grille over the foam to get it out the top so you can remove and clean the foam element. Just take your time and try not to break it. I think they were more flexible thirty years ago.

Got it, thanks.

 

[Runeight]

Interesting read this morning..

Interesting read this morning..

Along with the bike I also received a few receipts. With my first cup of java this is what I found.

Nichols Motors out of Wichita KS.
Invoice dated 02/09/91
Ring set, piston
Clinder gasket
Head gasket
Head cover gasket
Oil seal, valve stem
Gasket, adjuster
Piston pin cir clip
Valve job, complete

No odometer reading. (See below)

Invoice dated 04/20/91. Odometer 9141, probably KM. (Showing 11200 now)

Valve assembly, needle
Fuel cock assembly (yet to test)
Carb clean
Inspection

03/21/01

New shoe set
Tires
Spark plugs
Oil/filter
Battery

This morning I pulled off the float bowls. The left, as seen in past pictures, had fuel down the side. Couldn't drain it like the right side due to the gas. Was expecting the worse but actually things are very clean. Right side also. Cleaned up the bowls as well as the jets but all in all very clean.

It goes without saying that the carburetors will get a rebuild. Just waiting on the parts however I believe this baby will fire right up with some fresh gas. How well it will run is another question.

Waiting on a new filter but I think for now I'll change the oil and give it a go. Let the old filter grab the junk then install the new one.

 

[Nessism]

Be sure to replace the carb O-rings and those on the carb boots. You gotta pull the carbs apart to do a proper job. Basscliff has a couple different rebuild tutorials, including one focused on the twin carbs. You would do well to keep the original brass parts if at all possible.

 

[Runeight]

Agreed, always did this, if possible, on my Honda rebuilds. All I want to do now is fire it up before proceeding any further.

Now, I don't want to sound stupid but my manual states 5.4 US pints without filter. I drained a heck of a lot more than that!

Misprint? Shoot me the amount in quarts and I'll pencil it in the book. Thanks!

 

[Guest]

Agreed, always did this, if possible, on my Honda rebuilds. All I want to do now is fire it up before proceeding any further.

Now, I don't want to sound stupid but my manual states 5.4 US pints without filter. I drained a heck of a lot more than that!

Misprint? Shoot me the amount in quarts and I'll pencil it in the book. Thanks!

2600ml is cast into the block beside the filler cap. From a dead dry condition it will hold 2900ml as I recall. Your oil container should say .943 L [??] on it so 5.4 pints [2.7 qt.] it is.

I suspect that the right intake valves were open when it was parked and the gas went down that hole to the crankcase; the left side dribbled down the float bowl. This happens all too often.

Personally, I have no faith in the later model petcocks. I run the old '77 - 80 style with two diaphragms and the big lever. It has a rational gasket that isolates the bolt holes. It isn't as prone to fuel starvation by design. It cost more to make. It flows enough fuel to feed a four. I have had no reason to curse it. Maybe I'm wrong, but I feel the hand of the accountant - 'find me a way' - in the later models.

If the petcock always completely shut off we'd have a lot fewer carb cleanings and rod bearing failures. Then there are those who figure that if down is on and reserve is forward, then to the rear must be off? sigh. But it's the era of fuel injection now; problem solved.

Rant over.

My guess is that the thing was parked for so long that the rings rusted to the cylinder wall; the valves were done because?.they were there and looking at them. Or just took them out and replaced the seals. As long as they didn't grind them down to nothing you're probably just fine. You do have to wonder why it went nowhere for the last twenty odd years though.

BTW, you may want to free the clutch plates before you bang it into gear.

 

[Runeight]

Thanks John. The bike was plated in 2005 so I suspect this was the last time it ran. Yes, the petcock is "on and reserve" so I suspect fuel kept flowing over the years while on a side stand.

I drained a lot more oil out of it then 2.7 quarts. I kept saying "really." It's a small drain pan but more than 2.7 came out I can tell you that much. Nothing in the bottom of the pan however. Didn't really notice a gasoline smell but in your reply maybe it did leak fuel. I would think the oil level would also read high but it did not.

2600 ml, right there in front of me. Looked right at it but went to the book instead. I just want to fire it up, let things get warm and hopefully soak the clutch plates. Pretty sure they are dry as a bone.

Motor turns over fine. Soaked it with Marvel Mystery oil for four or five days. Would it do any good to rotate it with the starter for a bit before attempting a start? (Plugs removed)

Thanks again for the quick reply.

 

[BigD_83]

I've seen sightglasses look clear when the engine was overfull, due to gasoline separating from the oil...

 

[Guest]

I've seen sightglasses look clear when the engine was overfull, due to gasoline separating from the oil...

Just a dipstick on these, but point taken.

 

[Runeight]

Well, that's the only logical explanation.

 

[Nessism]

Fuel should not flow with the petcock set to "on" unless there is vacuum tugging on the diaphragm. If fuel flows in the ON position without vacuum, the petcock has failed.

 

[Guest]

Thanks John. The bike was plated in 2005 so I suspect this was the last time it ran. Yes, the petcock is "on and reserve" so I suspect fuel kept flowing over the years while on a side stand.

I drained a lot more oil out of it then 2.7 quarts. I kept saying "really." It's a small drain pan but more than 2.7 came out I can tell you that much. Nothing in the bottom of the pan however. Didn't really notice a gasoline smell but in your reply maybe it did leak fuel. I would think the oil level would also read high but it did not.

2600 ml, right there in front of me. Looked right at it but went to the book instead. I just want to fire it up, let things get warm and hopefully soak the clutch plates. Pretty sure they are dry as a bone.

Motor turns over fine. Soaked it with Marvel Mystery oil for four or five days. Would it do any good to rotate it with the starter for a bit before attempting a start? (Plugs removed)

Thanks again for the quick reply.

You won't need to soak the clutch plates; just put it in first gear [sparkplugs in] and pull the clutch and rock it until the clutch is free. It may well be free as it is, but it's nicer to the gears this way. I find that if I pull the clutch in and crack the throttle a few times before I put it in gear in the morning it will be almost silent because there's enough inertia in the gearbox to make the clutch free up.

I'd turn it over until the oil light goes out just to fill the galleries and filter. Ground the plugs [easier on the coils and trigger] ; good time to see if they actually spark. I'm expecting it will run just fine.

These are great bikes. Super smooth motor, slick six speed box, good handling and light. I rather like the IRC GS11 tires as they work as the bike was designed and give you a reference point as to whether a 'modern and better' design actually works better for this design of bike. There are upgrades, such as better rear shocks and electrics, but generally they got it right. I've had a few of the fours, but for general use and backroads I have more fun on these for less money.

Sorry about the petcock rant, but at some point you have to make your personal peace with them. Sounds like they fixed the prime setting problem by eliminating it. But if you go to the racing section at GSTwins.com the first item to change on a GS500 is ditching the stock petcock for a non vacuum Pingel one. I think that there just isn't enough vacuum with the carbs wound open to keep the fuel valve open wide. Worst time to lean out is at full speed. At some point, when nobody's looking, you're going to have a go at redline in sixth?..

 

[Runeight]

I'll put vacuum on the petcock and see if it drains the remaining fuel. I'll check that out, sounds like a good upgrade.

 

[Runeight]

Fuel should not flow with the petcock set to "on" unless there is vacuum tugging on the diaphragm. If fuel flows in the ON position without vacuum, the petcock has failed.

Yes, that is correct thus putting a little vacuum on it. There is just a little fuel that won't come out. I'll put it to RES then see what happens. I could probably attach a line and draw it with my mouth.

I checked the Pingle site and a GS750 is all they list. I'll dig deeper into it down the road.

 

[Runeight]

Dropped it in first and used a heavy duty twist tie to hold the clutch lever towards the grip as well as the front brake. Grabbed the rear wheel and rotated several times. (bike is on a lift)

Going to crank the motor in a bit with the plugs removed per Johns recommendation.

 

[Runeight]

OK, turns over just fine. Oil light out. Fuel tomorrow in a overhead tank. Don't want to go any further until morning just to be safe.

Thanks for the replies.