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GSX400E Project Suzzie.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Runeight
  • Start date Start date
No go this morning. She tried to fire, battery voltage became to low so it's charging. Original plugs so I put in a fresh set. Not what it calls for but a new plug none the less.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but when you twist the throttle shouldn't the slides move in the carburetor? They are not. Moves by hand but not by throttle. Don't think it's an adjustment either.

Like stated earlier I just want to see if she will run then off comes the carburetors. Now, as far as the air box is concerned there is no way it's coming out. It does look like it snaps together in two pieces but that doesn't make sense. John, you are correct. You would think the frame was built around the air box.
 
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Unless the slides are vacuum operated. It's not a Honda which is what I'm use too. ;)
 
Should be a CV carb so no, the slides are vacuum operated and will not move when the engine is off. The butterfly should move with the throttle.
 
Thanks. Looked in the book and saw that after posting. OK, let the battery charge up and try this again.
 
It's alive, it's alive!

Albeit runs only from full to half choke. To be expected. Motor sounds good but I hear some noise from the clutch area. Normal? Some bikes just had a noisy clutch in my experience. Sure the plates were bone dry and maybe an adjustment might take care of things.

Thanks for the help so far....
 
The fours tend to get loose clutch nuts now and then, but I've yet to hear of it on twins. Sometimes noises in that area are from the heat shield on the exhaust pipe being loose. In fact, the whole pipe might be loose at the head. But be careful as those bolts are famous for breaking off flush so maybe some Magic Loosener and wait for another day if they don't seem obviously loose.
 
It's more of a knock than a rattle but I will check the pipe. The chain is out of adjustment but in neutral it shouldn't matter. Clutch pull is pretty stiff so once I get the small cover removed maybe an adjustment will help. Of course this is assuming it's in the clutch area.

Also noticed that occasionally with a fully charged battery when you hit the start button it will click. Release button push again and it cranks so I need to clean up the ground and other connectors.
 
I need to correct myself. (embarrassed) The noise in question is on the left side of bike not the right.
 
It's more of a knock than a rattle but I will check the pipe. The chain is out of adjustment but in neutral it shouldn't matter. Clutch pull is pretty stiff so once I get the small cover removed maybe an adjustment will help. Of course this is assuming it's in the clutch area.

Also noticed that occasionally with a fully charged battery when you hit the start button it will click. Release button push again and it cranks so I need to clean up the ground and other connectors.

I don't think that the clutch adjustment would make any audible difference. You may as well pull the sprocket cover off and have a look at the clutch spiral actuating mechanism. It's not hard to remove and clean and regrease and this will make things much easier for your left hand and the clutch cable, and it just 'feels so good'. Some models had a ball bearing spiral and others were just a nylon bearing.

I'd take the timing cover off and check that the advance mechanism isn't falling off; sometimes people futz with the small bolt to try to turn the motor and leave it loose. There's a 10mm bolt that holds it to the end of the crank and the big nut [19mm?] that you turn the crank with. It's easy to pull the 'points' plate off and then undo the advance which you can lube. Some later motors had a computer advance system in the ignitor module, but I don't think yours would. Before you pull the advance, try pulling the end of the crank in and out; there should be something like .010 to .015" endplay which sounds a bit much but will drop when the block expands. The advance pins to the crank and you just line up the marks on the plate so it's hard to get it wrong. There is a torque spec on the bolt and a drop of loctite is a good idea as they have been known to come loose.

I met a guy who had a rod knock on a GS750. He was intending to tear it down until I showed him it was an exhaust heat shield.
 
Yes, I used the 19 mm bolt to spin motor. End play feels right. I'll read up and grease.

Thanks...
 
Update, might be bad news.

Update, might be bad news.

I'll hope for the best but I further researched the noise from the motor. Using a wooden dowel held to my ear I have pinpointed the noise to the back of the engine case. It's somewhat in the clutch area but more pronounced behind the engine between the front of swing arm.

Transmission has quite a few bearings but being 11 kilometers on the clock I can only hope I'm wrong.

Also, when you turn the bike off sometimes you hear the starter disengage. (lack of a better description) Even with a fully charged battery the bike just clicks the starter solenoid. This will happen several times after which the bike will start. I am using shop cables 3 foot in length so there would be current draw.

Using the wooden dowel over the starter cover there is a lot of noise.

I don't think there is a relationship between the noise I hear from the motor and the starter but wanted to throw it out there for feedback. I really hope it's not the transmission as I have no means for the repair.
 
Can you record and post up a video?

These old engines are not quiet. Based on what you have said it's hard to say if the noise is normal or not.

EDIT: your comment about the starter makes me wonder if the starter clutch is binding and the starter motor is spinning with the engine. Think you would know if that is happening but not positive.
 
I did record a short video and will post a link. Don't know how to imbed one unless I send it to you.

Yeah, the starter is a noisy thing.

Thank you...
 
I didn't hear anything to worry about there.It's been a while but that just sounds like a healthy GS(X)400.
 
I didn't hear anything to worry about there.It's been a while but that just sounds like a healthy GS(X)400.

That would be good news for today. Every non running bike you purchase has that paranoid feeling that goes with it. This might just be that.

Probably won't run it anymore until the carburetors are done. Waiting on parts and my go to guy does great work but only on Saturdays in his Shop. It's going to be a while. I have plenty to do in the meantime. Clean some more (a lot really), rebuild the front MC, forks and more. Need to call Pingle and get a petcock in the mix, have the fuel tank repaired. Would like to pull the starter and test it as well as valve adjustment. Adjusted the clutch yesterday. Screw turned two (2) turns in from PO.

Anyone else on the motor video?

Thanks SV.
 
Don't forget to do a carb sync in that list.Out of sync carbs can make funny noises to.Once everything on your list is do it should be one sweet 400!
 
Yes, done to every bike. I know on the old Honda 750 models it was a must do and in fact does quiet engine noise. These carburetors are in need, especially the left. Idle at half choke is all she will do. You can hold your hand over the right and feel it however the left will instantly stop the motor.

I ordered some aftermarket kits but mainly for the parts if needed. We know aftermarket huh? I'll reuse all OEM parts with fresh O rings, check the float valves and reset float height if needed. Hoping the diaphragms are good.

This will be a long project as I shut everything down in the Summer until late September. To hot in the Shop. I would guess first of next year. No hurry, love to wrench, read the manual and the Ducati runs great. :>)
 
A little progress..

A little progress..

I'm at the point of cleaning the project. Next is to remove exhaust and scrub down the bottom. In the meantime I wanted to see where I was on the wheels. They cleaned up nicely and will get a further detail once removed.

Also removed the State stickers off the front forks. Always a PITA.

Rear wheel.

SAM_0317.jpg


Front wheel.

image_6.jpeg


Stickers removed. The key was to keep the OEM decal in place while removing the one above and one below. Worked out well.

image_8.jpeg
 
Exhaust

Exhaust

Has anyone had any results painting an exhaust system? I have my doubts whether it would even last but I suppose prepping is the key. Other option is to clean it the best I can and go with it.

I'm not opposed to buying new from CMS but I don't find a link to ask any questions that I may have. Shipping to me with no guarentee of fitment could be a costly endevor.
 
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