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Gudgeon/wrist pin remover.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I'm thinking I'll need to buy one of these in the near future. It seems there are two types commonly available. One type is basically a graduated drift. I can see that it would work, but I can also see that it could transfer a lot of leverage on to the conrod bearings. The other type (which, at the moment, I'm leaning toward) consists of a collar to fit around the piston and a length of threaded rod that drives the pin through a hole in the collar.

So, have I interpreted these correctly, and does anyone have any specific recommendations regarding brand, supplier etc?
 
I made my own with a length of threaded rod, nuts, washers, fender washers, and I think a spacer or two made from PVC pipe (so as not to scratch the aluminum).
 
chef1366 said:
Thanks Terry
Easy enough
Click to expand...

along my travels i have semi destroyed my pin puller and then repaired it a few times.
some pins just seem to not move then the puller get's it's threads farked up.
still a nice looking pizz fer been from nuther kuntry:-s
 
i have seen bent rod's from being to aggressive with the side load from tapping/pounding/animal type of actions...lol
race engine pins usually push out if button's is used on the wrist pins.
i have never had a stock engine's pins just push out..some have destroyed my puller whether the pin is stuck in the piston or the rod.
 
The danger of tapping out the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) is that it can distort the big end hole especially on the roller bearing types and or mark the bearing surface where the roller is.
If the pin doesn't come with the smallest tap of the supported piston I use a threaded bar and a tube, usually once it starts they come easily. Also gently warming the piston will usually do the job.
 
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