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Half moon cam plugs pushing out

  • Thread starter Thread starter vintagemcycleguy
  • Start date Start date
V

vintagemcycleguy

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I adjusted my valves on my 82 GS1100E and installed a new cam cover gasket and 4 new end plugs. I used Yamabond 4 on the gasket and the plugs. After about 100 miles I noticed oil seeping from the left front end cover, removed it and found the end plug being pushed out. I checked the rest and and two others were being pushed out also. I have a 78 GS1000E and have never had this problem with it and installed the gasket and the plugs the same way. Any ideas.
 
I've never had trouble with mine. But some folks install them inside out I understand. Maybe that would help.

Also, not to be a naysayer, but that silicone probably isn't helping you either.
 
Like Mark said, you can install the plugs backwards so that the little lip keeps them from pushing out. Many have done this, it works. Also, use no sealer of any kind on your gasket or under the end plugs. You use only the slightest little bit of sealer over the top of the end plugs and only the end plugs. Keep it off the gasket. Make sure your gasket mating surfaces are 100% clean before putting it back together. Torque to specks and you will have a leak free seal. Do anything other than this and you run the risk of a leak. BTDT many times, this advice is from years of painful experience.
 
Silly

Silly

This is probably a silly question but do the rubber plugs have to be removed when you adjust the valves????:-s (I haven't done it yet so I really don't know.)
 
flipping them is a option I don't agree with, but....

the trick is to install them in with the sealer glue and let it dry before putting on the cam cover gasket and running the engine. it will hold them in much better than if it gets squished while wet. usually the sealer is only used on the end plugs and sometimes around the camchain area.

there are many choices of gasket bond yama bond , perma-tex what ever you use don't over do it.

plugs don't need to be removed to check valves- but it depends on how it was put together before you get to do it... right, hopefully.. good luck
 
Last edited:
Thanks

Thanks

Thank you!....Good scoop!:-D The reason I asked is because I plan to do a valve adjustment soon but I have no leaks and figure "why fix it if it ain't broken?"..In other words, if the rubber half-moon plugs don't need to be disturbed, I feel like leaving them alone. Is that reasonable??
 
They will push out if the valve cover is overtightened. Being that the gasket is pretty thick rubber, it does not have to be excessively tight to seal properly.

Don't ask how I know.

Good Luck, Ed

2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 Ducati 900SS
 
I have thankfully not had trouble with the "half moons," but I HAVE used "Form-a-Gasket" in place of OEM without any trouble. My GS550L valve cover has gone years at a time without any leaks. I've also used it to seal other "low pressure" covers when necessary without any problems.

The key is to apply it VERY sparingly and don't "crank down" the valve cover ... set it in place and finger-tighten the bolts to snug down the "Form-a-Gasket" just a bit. Then WAIT, WAIT, WAIT twenty four hours for it to cure. Once it does, snug the bolts down just a little more (again, DON'T crank them down) and you'll do just fine, plus it'll be VERY easy to remove the silicone and re-apply next time you have to get into the motor.

One other thing ... keep a tube of the stuff on the bike when you ride. In a pinch it WILL work nicely to stop unexpected leaks even without a full cure ... not the most desirable solution but a good stop-gap till you can properly correct a leakage problem.

By the way, people who claim the silicone will get into the motor and cause blockages and damage just don't know anything about using the stuff. When applied sparingly and properly there is no way you'll ever have a problem. In fact, unlike cork and paper gaskets, which CAN degrade and break off inside the motor (causing problems), silicone simply won't break down, and anybody who has ever tried to pull apart an old silicone gasket knows it doesn't give up easily ... there's no way pieces of it will ever "break off" inside the motor.

The only way you could possibly have a problem would be if you used WAAAAAY too much to begin with, cranked down the bolts enough to squirt the excess into the engine, and then run it before it had a chance to cure at all. Even on the side of the road, if you apply the stuff sparingly and wait long enough for it to "skin over" you'll generally be past the "danger" zone where it might cause trouble.

Hope this info is helpful!

Regards,
 
In fact, unlike cork and paper gaskets, which CAN degrade and break off inside the motor (causing problems), silicone simply won't break down, and anybody who has ever tried to pull apart an old silicone gasket knows it doesn't give up easily ... there's no way pieces of it will ever "break off" inside the motor.

The only way you could possibly have a problem would be if you used WAAAAAY too much to begin with, cranked down the bolts enough to squirt the excess into the engine, and then run it before it had a chance to cure at all. Even on the side of the road, if you apply the stuff sparingly and wait long enough for it to "skin over" you'll generally be past the "danger" zone where it might cause trouble.



Regards,

I think that's what they're referring to.
 
I have thankfully not had trouble with the "half moons," but I HAVE used "Form-a-Gasket" in place of OEM without any trouble. My GS550L valve cover has gone years at a time without any leaks. I've also used it to seal other "low pressure" covers when necessary without any problems.

The key is to apply it VERY sparingly and don't "crank down" the valve cover ... set it in place and finger-tighten the bolts to snug down the "Form-a-Gasket" just a bit. Then WAIT, WAIT, WAIT twenty four hours for it to cure. Once it does, snug the bolts down just a little more (again, DON'T crank them down) and you'll do just fine, plus it'll be VERY easy to remove the silicone and re-apply next time you have to get into the motor.

One other thing ... keep a tube of the stuff on the bike when you ride. In a pinch it WILL work nicely to stop unexpected leaks even without a full cure ... not the most desirable solution but a good stop-gap till you can properly correct a leakage problem.

By the way, people who claim the silicone will get into the motor and cause blockages and damage just don't know anything about using the stuff. When applied sparingly and properly there is no way you'll ever have a problem. In fact, unlike cork and paper gaskets, which CAN degrade and break off inside the motor (causing problems), silicone simply won't break down, and anybody who has ever tried to pull apart an old silicone gasket knows it doesn't give up easily ... there's no way pieces of it will ever "break off" inside the motor.

The only way you could possibly have a problem would be if you used WAAAAAY too much to begin with, cranked down the bolts enough to squirt the excess into the engine, and then run it before it had a chance to cure at all. Even on the side of the road, if you apply the stuff sparingly and wait long enough for it to "skin over" you'll generally be past the "danger" zone where it might cause trouble.

Hope this info is helpful!

Regards,
I have a 1980gs750L and when I changed the valve cover I put never seize on the gasket, I shouldnt have any problem with the gasket sticking, next time I remove it. doesnt leak either.
 
I've turned my plugs backwards for years with no problem. I also put a couple of turns of teflon pipe tape on them before installing them...never had a leak there. For valve cover gaskets for most of the GS motorcycle line go here:

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm#suzuki

If he does not have one that fits your bike, you can send him your valve cover and he will make one for you. Just don't over torque them!!!

Hap
 
The only way you could possibly have a problem would be if you used WAAAAAY too much to begin with, cranked down the bolts enough to squirt the excess into the engine, and then run it before it had a chance to cure at all.

Trouble is, that's exactly what 99% of home (and professional) mechanics do with silicone sealer. It's very useful stuff, but so widely misused that I generally just tell people not to use it.

Used as you describe, or as a very thin coating, it is safe and effective.
 
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